Transom Assembly
 

Hey Guys

It looks like my boat is gonna need a Transom assembly soon, I am gonna hold off til fall, but, what to start putting "ducks in a row" now.

I currently have a stock Bravo 1 drive, behind a stock 454EFI in a 24ft Baja, Is there any advantage going to the Bravo HP transom assembly as opposed to just the "regular" Bravo transom assembly?

Does the motor have to come out to change the transom assembly? it looks to me like the inner plate would be hard to change with the motor in, but, I have never done one, so, thought I would ask.

As always ALL input is welcomed!
Thannks
Michael

I have 4 like new HP gimbles for sale as well as 4 Bravo 1 drives with less that 40 hours on them all. If you don't intend on upping your power, why not just rebuild your gimble? Unless it's broken which if it was you wouldn't be waiting?

The gimble needs a swivel pin seal, there is a fair amount of play in the gimble, at some point in the past it has had a "kit" put in it (the big allen nuts that squeeze on the swivel pin) but, this is a temporary fix.

I would like to eventually go to a 500 or 525 EFI set up, or as many have suggested a worked 496 by Raylar.

What's the difference between the regular and HP transoms? How much are you asking for one of your HP assemblies? Are they in perfect shape?

Thanks!

I would remove the engine it is not that big of a deal and once the assembly is off it is easy. I just did it over the winter. piece of cake. I wasn't to fond of putting holes and cutouts to me it is just another place to leak.

Sadly, for me it is a big deal, its a REAL tight fit in those 24ft Outlaws, you have to pull the back seat, and its a real pain in the butt to yank the motor, thats why I wondered if it could be done without pulling it?

It looks like a winter project anyway, like I said the only thing wrong with it is there is some "slop" in the transom and the swivel pin seal is shot, so, it leaks a little water when sitting, I really dont want to lose a month or more tearing it apart in the summer, so, I will putter away over the winter when I have lots of time and in no particular hurry!!

Thanks for the input!
Michael

If its the kit I think your talking about, those nuts are just plugs. They are there because of the 1" or so hole someone had to drill to remove the top nut from the swivel pin. The nuts are only to prevent intrusion of water. Alot of your slop may be you steering arm especially if the pin has been replaced and gimbal repaired in the past. Just a thought. Good luck as I have a similar problem.

If you can wait till your "off" season, do the right thing. Pull the motor and repair/replace/upgrade the transom assembly while off the transom. Question: Does your boat use the stock Merc steering system? As Prostock wrote, some of your slop may come from the steering components. Hint----scrap the stock steering and get an external offshore style steering system on that boat. Again, "off" season upgrade.

The gimble assy's I have are all in very good condition. Two of them are on the back of my boat now with 2 of the drives. Fresh water use. The other 2 are in as good a condition and the other 2 drives I was told have XR gears in them but I never verified. Those have less that 40 hours and one upper has zero hours on it. I want $1750. for each gimble and each drive. In other words $3500. for one complete setup 1 gimble and 1 drive all come with inner rings and trim rams. I'll be going to Imco's and extension boxes as soon as some of this stuff sells.

my buddy got an hp assembly here, he's really happy with it

http://www.vinzimarine.com/products.htm

by the way, what prop you running on that outlaw