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Replacing solid aluminum rub rail
I am attempting to replace a solid aluminum rub rail on my Searay. Does anyone have a good write up on this? When I searched, all I found were rails with rubber inserts. I am most conserned with the bend around the bow. This will be a one pc. install, 20' long. Won't the rail kink around the bow without using some sort of forming tool?
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Originally Posted by frickstyle
(Post 3040035)
I am attempting to replace a solid aluminum rub rail on my Searay. Does anyone have a good write up on this? When I searched, all I found were rails with rubber inserts. I am most conserned with the bend around the bow. This will be a one pc. install, 20' long. Won't the rail kink around the bow without using some sort of forming tool?
Good luck and I hope I was some help. |
Here you go. This is a good one to put in "my favorites"
http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html |
Alan at http://www.rubrails.com/ is a great guy to deal with. He can walk you thru the whole job and tell you how to do the job right. His prices are better than taco also.
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Originally Posted by Steve_H
(Post 3040486)
Alan at http://www.rubrails.com/ is a great guy to deal with. He can walk you thru the whole job and tell you how to do the job right. His prices are better than taco also.
John |
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Classic stainless get my vote
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Originally Posted by activatorf1
(Post 3040628)
Classic stainless get my vote
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Used the plastic or rubber years ago , might look Ok on a party barge but the plastic and or rubber expands in the summer heat and becomes distorted leaving gaps and sags , been there done that and to me looks like garbage
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I made the 25 ft journey from my home to my shop to get the color code , normally this take 30 seconds but we just got 25 + inches of F-ing snow and I just had enough of this crap
The yellow I choose is SIKKENS color map location page 434 location D5 |
Originally Posted by activatorf1
(Post 3040702)
I made the 25 ft jorney from my home to my shop to get the color code , normally this take 30 seconds but we just got 25 + inches of F-ing snow and I just had enough of this crap
The yellow I choose is SIKKENS color map location page 434 location D5 Thanks again, John PS I was unaware sikkens was in the auto/marine paints! PSS Quit biting the skin around your fingernails......... LOl... you can stop now. |
They don't market Boat only paint . This is straight up Urethane which can be used on anything , don't let anybody tell you any different!! We stopped using Sikkens a few years back , way over rated with crazy high pricing , infact they are F-ing criminals
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Originally Posted by activatorf1
(Post 3040628)
Classic stainless get my vote
Finding a section of rail wasn't a problem, but when you bend it that hard it wanted to buckle out. We had to cut it 6 times, beat it down, weld it, grind it, and brush finish it. What a pain... |
The Rub rail is inch stainless , it is not flat it has a slight curve to it . I have installed this type many times before and hope these tips help you .
when you wrap it around try to lay out so that a holes does not fall in bend area and put cardboard behind stainless to prevent boat from being damaged . the bend I made inside tunnel is one piece , all I did was use a 2 x 4 to exact shape of area minus what thickness of rail x 2 and used that 2 x 4 as template to hammer stainless around , again laying it out so that no holes were in bend area . Larry |
activatorf1 where did you get that stainless rub rail at? I have a 24ft thundercat that I'm in the process of painting etc and I took my rub rail off which is very similar but its alum. where did you get that and how much was it? thanks, justin
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Originally Posted by justincasey57
(Post 3041062)
activatorf1 where did you get that stainless rub rail at? I have a 24ft thundercat that I'm in the process of painting etc and I took my rub rail off which is very similar but its alum. where did you get that and how much was it? thanks, justin
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This is close to what I have:
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/A11-0257.gif I am most concerned with the bend around the front of the bow (tip). I already purchased this peice from Marine Max. I'm trying to make the wrap around all in one as opposed to cutting into sections. I don't want to kink or have gaps. Is it necessary to make the gradual bend from mid boat towards the front running down the side? (big radius bend). Is there a backing to prevent gouging the fiberglass where the rail edges contact the hull? |
read my post
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Originally Posted by frickstyle
(Post 3041509)
This is close to what I have:
Might see if a muffler shop has small enough anvils to get the front bend real close to what you want, then work backwards. They will confine the bend to the area that's needed bent. Trying by hand will just put a large bend in as much length that you are holding on too. |
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You simply screw as you creep along and use a rubber mallet with cardboard behind rub- rail to prevent damage to paint/ gelcoat
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3.50 a foot??? WOW, their proud of that stuff. lol looks very nice though.
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Originally Posted by justincasey57
(Post 3042021)
3.50 a foot??? WOW, their proud of that stuff. lol looks very nice though.
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Call Nuwave Marine , ask for Ken and mention you spoke to Larry about the one inch stainless Rub rail . Nuwave # 856-232-6969
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Originally Posted by activatorf1
(Post 3042356)
Call Nuwave Marine , ask for Ken and mention you spoke to Larry about the one inch stainless Rub rail . Nuwave # 856-232-6969
John |
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