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theadamv1 02-18-2010 11:31 AM


Originally Posted by bajabob (Post 3049342)
ok i am going crazy looking at amps . i have a loud boat so i need my sounds to be loud. i have two big batterys and 100amp alternanor . . i have a sony cd player bose speakers and 700watt amp i like to put two speakers in the back with a amp that with work for me . now i read some amp get hot and some need 14.2 volts drain a lot of power ??? so should i just take this out of the boat and start over with new stuff????

As far as starting over that greatly depends on your budget... You didnt mention what kind of amp you have.. Most all amps will have heat build up, untill you get into the very high $$ ones.. such as the Alpine PDX & JL Audio, and they too will heat up just not near as much as the lower line ones. I always install a fan where ever I have my amps mounted.

As for voltage MOST amps are rated for their max output at 14.2 v. And unless you have some type of power supply or the engines are running you will not have that. When the voltage gets low the amps will start going into protect mode as well as when they get too hot...(nothing ruins tha party more when the tunes start cutting out).

Griff 02-18-2010 12:31 PM


Originally Posted by HOTRODREDNECK (Post 3049334)
i haven't had alot of luck with the optima batterys. would a couple of standard group 27 or 29 deep cycle work ok? just a 4 bank on board charger work? most of those are usually like 10amp chargers i think. is that enough? how big are your generators?

I do not like Optimas either. They are expensive and so are the battery boxes you need for them. They only last year or two in most cases.

My Interstate group 29M deep cycle has been great. You can get a standard group 31 battery box for it for about $50. The next better option would be an AGM or Odyssey Battery. They are about double price of a standard deep cycle.

Baja_man 02-18-2010 12:54 PM

Kinetik
 
Another way to go other than conventional batteries is Kinetik. They come in a wide variety of sizes to fit your needs. I am switching to these this year and am torn on whether to get 2400 watt or 3800 watt. I am looking at the larger sizes to run stereo all day at a 3/4 to 7/8 volume.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/default.asp

low_psi 02-18-2010 02:44 PM


Originally Posted by bajabob (Post 3049342)
ok i am going crazy looking at amps . i have a loud boat so i need my sounds to be loud. i have two big batterys and 100amp alternanor . . i have a sony cd player bose speakers and 700watt amp i like to put two speakers in the back with a amp that with work for me . now i read some amp get hot and some need 14.2 volts drain a lot of power ??? so should i just take this out of the boat and start over with new stuff????

All amps are rated at 14.2 volts. In order to provide your AMP wihth optimum power at all times you should go with a Large Capacitor. The Cap will "recharge" when not under extreme draw, then when a large amount of amperage is needed( heavy bass hit) the capacitor will provide the additional power. It is a bit more technical than I described, but I am lazy.

Also running your Amps below a certain voltage (when your batteries begin to die) can cause damage.

bajabob 02-18-2010 03:23 PM

ok here another ???? speakers wt one should i get 2ohm or 4ohm or 8ohm . now i no the amps put out 2 and 4 ohm they is some nice box speakers but they are 8 ohm so wish is the best sound ? sorry i no nothing about this .:lolhit:i just wt to put somthing together the ritgh way

low_psi 02-18-2010 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by bajabob (Post 3049654)
ok here another ???? speakers wt one should i get 2ohm or 4ohm or 8ohm . now i no the amps put out 2 and 4 ohm they is some nice box speakers but they are 8 ohm so wish is the best sound ? sorry i no nothing about this .:lolhit:i just wt to put somthing together the ritgh way

Ok I will try my best to explain this.......

First try to purchase a Class D Amp for your subwoofer. They are designed for Sub woofer usage as a very efficent compared to others. My Class D amp is stable to a 1 ohm load. I have my Kicker L7 (dual Voice coil) wired in parallel. Each voice coil is rated @ 4 ohms. By wiring in parallel I have brought the load down to a 2 ohm load. Wiring in parallel means the (+) lead from one voice coil is wired to the (+) lead on the second voice coil then to the amp. Same for the (-) leads. My Class D amp is rated @ 500 watts RMS on a 4 ohm load, and 900 watts RMS on a 2 ohm load.

I have a similar set up for my Highs. I run a Kicker 250x2 amp at a 2 ohm load. I have 4 sets of Pioneer Premier 6x9s, 2 wired in parallel for each channel and another Kicker 250x2 wired to 4 Kicker 6.5s. The 6x9s are in small boxes that I can move around, so if on a beach I can set them up on the sunpad...:party-smiley-048:

What should you buy? It really all depends on the overall package you want. If you are going to buy an amp that is 2 ohm stable than I say stick with 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel or 2 ohm speakers wired normal . If your amp is 4 ohm stable stick with 4 ohm speakers wired normally or 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel. (2 8ohm speakers in parallel = 4 ohm load)

Then you can really get into complicated setups using series/parallel wiring but I would stay simple.

bajabob 02-18-2010 08:57 PM


Originally Posted by low_psi (Post 3049958)
Ok I will try my best to explain this.......

First try to purchase a Class D Amp for your subwoofer. They are designed for Sub woofer usage as a very efficent compared to others. My Class D amp is stable to a 1 ohm load. I have my Kicker L7 (dual Voice coil) wired in parallel. Each voice coil is rated @ 4 ohms. By wiring in parallel I have brought the load down to a 2 ohm load. Wiring in parallel means the (+) lead from one voice coil is wired to the (+) lead on the second voice coil then to the amp. Same for the (-) leads. My Class D amp is rated @ 500 watts RMS on a 4 ohm load, and 900 watts RMS on a 2 ohm load.

I have a similar set up for my Highs. I run a Kicker 250x2 amp at a 2 ohm load. I have 4 sets of Pioneer Premier 6x9s, 2 wired in parallel for each channel and another Kicker 250x2 wired to 4 Kicker 6.5s. The 6x9s are in small boxes that I can move around, so if on a beach I can set them up on the sunpad...:party-smiley-048:

What should you buy? It really all depends on the overall package you want. If you are going to buy an amp that is 2 ohm stable than I say stick with 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel or 2 ohm speakers wired normal . If your amp is 4 ohm stable stick with 4 ohm speakers wired normally or 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel. (2 8ohm speakers in parallel = 4 ohm load)

Then you can really get into complicated setups using series/parallel wiring but I would stay simple.

thanks for the info i need all the help i can get

halfbuzzed 02-18-2010 09:04 PM

this is getting a bit complex over some power issues, but if ya want to give me a call at the shop I will be more than happy to explain all your power/audio questions to you. Legendary Looks (419)524-3377, ask for joe

jonyb 02-20-2010 07:56 PM

I use Stinger batteries and chargers on all of my installs, and all my customers boats. My boat has 2 SP1500D's for the stereo, and an SP800 to power the engine, ballast, and LED's. The stereo batteries are power 4 Wet Sounds amps that are rated at about 5,000 watts all together, but they dont' draw as much current as most car audio amps that are out there.

I also use the Stinger 6A/hr chargers because these batteries need more than a 90A alternator to charge them.

It makes me laugh to see people start their boat at the end of the day to try and keep the stereo playing. That doesn't help whatsoever.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...a/DSC_7208.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...a/DSC_7209.jpg


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