I have a gen v block. The cover was that pot metal aluminun type material. If I can get that gasket and cover on and in where it belongs I will be a very happy person! Last thing in this world right now that I have time to do is pull a motor!

I have the gen 6 block. I don't know what mine is made out of yet. I heard it could be a composite of some sort.

There is no reason to have to pull the engine.

Cut the rubber gasket that goes into the timing cover lower groove off at the corners with a razor blade. You will never get the timing cover to go down far enough with it in place. Fill the groove on the timing cover with RTV, then when you get the timing cover in place, put another bead of RTV between it and the oil pan.

I know your getting a lot of good input here however just thought I would throw one more thing out there. be sure and inspect the pan gasket for any tears or abnormalties before just drawing it back up into place. I would squeze a little sealer in there also just to be on the safe side. just go back as far as you can ( to the point of where the pan is up tight or secure to the block) OPPS, never mind. I forgot you had the one piece seal/gasket. You should be fine.

I plan on getting her back together today, finally got everything I need including making a tool to install the balancer back on. One question is my opinion is that one piece rubber gasket is in very good, so if you were in my shoes would you just clean it all up really well and put back together dry or run a thin film of rtv down the oil pan gasket? I am of course going to rtv the proper areas on the timing cover after cleaning up. Also should I just be snugging up the bolts on that pan? thanks guys for all the input!

Well she is back in one piece as of tonight... Hopefully fire it up in a couple days to check for leaks. Suppose to be crumby weather coming.

I'm going to be changing the seal this weekend. Should i be putting any type of sealant on the outside edge of the seal where it presses into the cover??

No need to.

Try picking one of these up http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-16202 from any local auto parts store they work great to repair the groove on the balancer snout if you don't fix that problem the new seal will just wear and start to leak again from the same area. You should never use an impact wrench on a crank to install or remove the balancer doing so can damage the main bearings and lead to crank walk.

Too late for me, i used an impact to get it off, and also used a hammer on the end of the puller to try and pop the balancer off. What's done is done now. Its already back together with a new seal in the cover. I did install the crank balancer with the installer tool however. Hopefully I didn't damage anything taking the balancer off, that would suck.

Got mine fired up yesterday for first time this year, no apparent leaks in the driveway anyways! New back seat installed, next comes the part where the old lady comes in, cleaning the inside! wax her up and maybe someday the warm weather will come again!

I've been sweatin a bit about me with the impact and hammer on the puller. So I called my local engine builder and told him what i did. He said i shouldn't loose any sleep over it. He said it was possible to hurt the thrust bearing on the crank, but not likely. Hopefully all is well; otherwise, it's going to be another long summer.