Overheating
 

Hi...Have a 454, believe gen IV in an 89 Rogue. It keeps getting hot on me...Rebuilt the seawater pump, and replaced the recirc pump, as it looked original, and was pretty gnarley...Had the muffs on it, and it looked like it wouldn't take any water.....I'm going to make sure I put the hoses on correctly, but thought I had it...There's also some sort of flushing device in line between the seawater inlet and the seawater pump...Gonna yank that and make sure that's not my problem. Next up its the ps cooler...Is it easiest just to yank this thing to clean it? Kind of tough to get at. Can I just backflush from the recirc pump? How about in the drive...Is there anything there I might want to check? Thanks...Den

Ok...Hooked the hose up to the flush device, and it ran perfect...Suggestions? It has to be from the flush device backwards. I ran it before I had the drive on by inserting a hose into the water pickup on the bell housing. Of course, this was under pressure, so an air leak may not have beeen detected..Help?

Bravoe drives have a hose between the transom and the belhousing, it could be rotted or loose on one end. There is also an oring between the bell and the drive, but I doubt it is leaking that much.

How tough is that to get to? Do I need to pull the drive? Thanks...Den

You can see parts of the hose with the drive full up. That would give you and idea of general condition. However, to inspect the whole thing you'll need to remove the drive - there is a plastic insert in the drive end of the hose. The insert retains the hose in the bellhousing, and seals it against the bellhousing. But, they can break and could cause an air leak when on plane.

Thanks for the tip...It overheats on the muffs too..Won't suck water...

+1


Also hate to bring this up, but running without being able to draw water in for some time may have damaged that impeller in the seawater pump. PITA I know, but you should probably take a look at it again, even after you find your problem in the back side. Using that garden hose on the flush port can deceive you into thinking impeller is ok, because you are already pressurizing water with the hose.

Yeah...Kinda thinking that myself...It won't be as bad now, since the bolts were just out ha ha!

Shouldn't there be enough water pressure from the muffs to force the water up the drive? My well pump kicks on at 50 psi, and shuts off at 70...Could my flush device be defective? There's water in it...If I had my hoses reversed, would it still have run cool from the flush device?

Bravo Fever

What the heck is Bravo fever???

It is when the fitting on the transom assembly corrodes at it blocks the water from getting to the seawater pump. There is a plastic insert that threads into the hose to hold it in place, The corrosion collapses this fitting and the hose.

Rog....Caught an earlier thread...Is this hose sprung, or will heater hose work? Thanks...

You need a hose with an internal spring - it bends a lot.

Fever! Red was right! never doubted him anyway...MAJOR restriction in the hose at the transom assembly...will be getting the parts tomorrow..Can he have it done and be on the water by the weekend??? Stay tuned to find out!

Please oh please take a pic or describe the process for replacement. I can't seem to find this infamous plastic piece on my B3.

THe plastic piece looks very much like the end of the hose. I had never noticed it until someone mentioned it here. Would be really hard to see if you had corrosion, trash, etc built up.

Mountain, There's a gooseneck fitting mounted on the inside of the transom with a hose going to your seawater pump. If you remove the hose and this fitting, you'll see the hose coming through the a hole in the transom plate(not sure if this is the correct terminology) INstead of clamoing the hose down with a hose clamp, like it's done everywhere else, there is a nylon insert that is screwed INSIDE the hose, to expand it out against the transom hole, thus keeping the hose in place. Mine was corroded to the point that it had collapsed the hose, and the insert. I was able to take the insert out in pieces, and clean the corrosion from around the hose. The hose looked like it was still in decent shape, so I'm just going to put a new insert into it. I will be replacing the hose this winter, when I have the drive down for some other repairs...But it screws into the hose, like a shotgun choke tube. Not very big, mine was black and was hard to see being collapsed along with the hose...

Den P,

Thanks for the reply and the explanation. Do I understand correctly that you were able to replace this piece from inside the boat without having to remove the drive? What is the plastic insert called? I am trying to search the interweb for the part but I can't seem to find the correct combination of words.

Thanks again!

Part # 15 on this diagram
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscata...,120,20,110,70

apollard,

Thanx so much! I'll crawl behind my engine, pull off the hose and fitting to take a look. Hopefully this is my problem. Spending a mere $1.99 for a fix would be a refreshing change.

Well, put everything back together, and no good..I didn't put my hose back on yet, annd hit the water on the muffs...Shouldn't it have flowed up to the fitting at least? It didn't...Acted like it was blocked..I put the garden hose up top and back flushed, and water came out of the pickups...I have run the boat with a hose just shoved in the hole for the intake before I put the drive on, and it ran good...What the heck could be blocked in the drive??? Doesn't look like there's anything in there..Plus, it back flowed when I had the hose on it...Pull the drive and run a hose to a bucket from the intake to see if it will suck out of a bucket? Help??

I, too, pulled off the elbow fitting at the transom to find the plastic insert collapsed; I can't even get my pinkie finger through it. Bravo fever is real! Unfortunately, there is only 1.5inches of clearance in front of the plastic insert and I can't figure out how to remove that insert. It looks to me like the drive has to be removed to get to it; it doesn't seem possible from inside the boat. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow and letting a pro finish the job for me (I don't have the ability to pull a 200lb B3 by myself).

Den P.:

I was so sure I had this problem solved until I read your post. I can't imagine what could be blocking your water flow in one direction but not block in the opposite direction. I do not believe anything small enough to enter the pickup holes on the drive would also be large enough to block the water passages inside the drive case in a single direction only (like a loose piece of rubber or wood or something).

Have you tried to flow water through the drive with the drive unmounted from the boat? Maybe turning it upside down on the muffs or laying it on its side will dislodge whetever is in there. Maybe you can prove to yourself that the passage is really open and you simply can't build enough head pressure with your muffs/hose to force water up the two-foot section from the pickup to the outlet at the transom plate.

As a last resort you might consider hiring a mechanic with a borescope or a plumber with a flexible 'snake' camera to take a look inside the water passages and see if there is in fact some debris or a collapsed section or something.

Please keep us updated, and good luck!

Well, the saga continues. Glad I have another boat ha ha! Swapped the lines on the pump..Think I had them backwards. Also noticed the connector for the flush device wasn't tight. trimmed some of the old hose off the intake line between the transom and the pump. Pulled the hose off the hydro cooler, and fired it up..I now have water flow out of the pump..Not alot tho. Wondering if it's a muff thing. Tomorrow, I'm going to drop it in the water and see if that improves. Gonna get a new intake hose as well, as the old one is being a *%#@ going on all the way. Just nothing ever good about old rubber ha ha! i should have pretty good volume coming out of that pump if it's working properly I would think. Not enough coming out now to keep things cool, that's for sure. If none of this works, I'll pull the drive and replace that hose, and all of the seals in the drive, although, it seems like if the boat is in the water, it would plug any air gaps behind the transom..Hmm..maybe my pump housing is shot..Didn't look bad tho...grrrr.......Anyone know for sure if the intake hose on this pump is on the top? Pretty sure that's right for a right hand rotation..To be continued...

Mountainstone, what ever happened with your boat?

No change...Did I smoke another &^*%ing impeller? Water just barely flowing out. I've drank beer faster than that...Speaking of which...

My boat was definitely a victim of 'bravo fever.' I was able to remove the hose and elbow at the transom to see/feel that the plastic insert inside the hose was collapsed. I could also see that the drive would have to be removed in order to change that insert so I took it to a shop to have that done. The mechanic said there was a 1/4" of corrosion between the outside of the plastic insert and the inside of the hose, which had collapsed the plastic insert. He replaced the hose and the insert and I got the boat back last week. We took it out on Friday and it ran perfectly, never getting above 175 degrees all day.

hmmm... now im thinking
neighbors maxum i toyed with all last summer.
efi 350 chevy, b3 drive... his drive was completely plugged with salt, not a drop of water would pass.. so i used clr(like a drain cleaner) to blow through it... fixed that.
replaced the s/w pump(complete assembly) it was shot.
new manifolds and risers(they hydro'd the motor on him)
i cleaned the tubes of the heat exchanger, replaced t stat.. on plane she overheats... 190*. i even installed a mechanical gauge to check... yup 190*.
i have blackflushed everything from the manifolds back... still has the high temp issue..

will this plastic piece also cause this? if it sucks air on plane i would think that on the hose with 60psi that i'd see an external leak, but doubtful with all of that water spraying out of the muffs and exhaust outlets... ?

The problem is the corrosion that accumulates between the outside of the plastic insert and the inside of the rubber hose, which collapses the plastic insert and restricts flow. If you had enough salt to plug the drive (never heard of that before) you very likely had enough to corrode the plastic piece in question. Mine was easy to check, it was just hard to replace. I recommend you check it since we boat in the same water (my boat has spent its whole ten-year life in Puget Sound).

thanks... the neighbor used to leave it in the water all summer, then never rinse it.... the drive is really corroded, the skeg is gone......
i will check that plastic piece.

thanks much!

hang on a minute.... earlier posts say this plastic piece corroded.... plastic corroding? are we talking about an accumulation of debris or salt build up? or is this a metal tube that is plastic coated and when the coating wears down it corrodes?
i may be dumb as a bag of rocks here, but......

No bag o' rocks ha ha! The hose passes through the transom plate coming into the boat. The nylon insert spreads the hose aginst the edges of the holein the transom plate to secure it. The corrosion is actually the transom plate, which in turn, collapses the hose/insert. It's not between the insert and hose, but between the hose and transom plate..If you pull the connector on the inside of the boat, you should be able to see it right away...

AH HA! gotcha..thanks..