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Gimball Seal?
I had a leak this year at the transom, and a PILE of play [side to side] on my outdrive, I had the gimbal ring, and all the bellows changed, the leak is much, much smaller, but, is still there. I figure the only way to cure it completely is to split the transom and engine and reseal the transom. Is there an actual "seal" to install? or can you just use 3M marine sealant?
The boat is 24ft Baja, 454EFI, Bravo 1 set up, Thanks for any input! Michael |
There is a rubber seal that goes in a channel in the outer housing. That and a little silicone on the through bolts at the bottom should be all the seal you need.
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Thanks!
Do you have a part name or number? I would like to try and find one online, but, need to know what to look for, LOL Thanks Again! Michael |
Could be leaking in from the upper swivel pin/ steering arm?
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Originally Posted by AO31
(Post 3195654)
Could be leaking in from the upper swivel pin/ steering arm?
But Thanks! for the input Michael |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by n20michael
(Post 3195645)
Thanks!
Do you have a part name or number? I would like to try and find one online, but, need to know what to look for, LOL Thanks Again! Michael Number 14 is part number 43713, it is actually the same shape as the outline of the gimbal housing. Available from mercruiserparts.com |
Originally Posted by Ted G
(Post 3195685)
Number 14 is part number 43713, it is actually the same shape as the outline of the gimbal housing.
Available from mercruiserparts.com Thanks a bunch! I appreciate it! Michael |
Before going through the pain pulling of your motor and transom assembly, you may want to check all your bolt-ons that are on the transom on the outside of the boat. Including trim tabs and swim platform. My 25 outlaw from the factory only put sealant in between the strip of screws on the mounting bracket for the trim tabs. Meaning none of the screws had sealant. This caused water to go into my transom and leak out at the bottom of the transom on the inside of my boat through a screw hole that was used to hold a hose in place. Check your transom to make sure it is still solid. I replaced all the bellows, transom seal, pivot seal, etc. Put everything back together and was still getting water in the transom when I first put it in for it's initial test run. I then pulled the motor, put the outdrive back on, sealed the water intake and put it back in the water. That's when I noticed the water coming in from a screw hole on the inside of the transom! Thats when I removed the trim tabs and found the seriously crappy job done installing the trim tabs. Reinstalled the trim tabs and put the boat back in without motor and no leaks! It's been dry as a bone all summer. Luckily for me the boat never sat in water and had low hrs. The transom feels solid (I had the transom assembly off and checked and I should be able to dry any remaining moisture out with heat) Good luck!
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Originally Posted by FBRONCO
(Post 3196113)
Before going through the pain pulling of your motor and transom assembly, you may want to check all your bolt-ons that are on the transom on the outside of the boat. Including trim tabs and swim platform. My 25 outlaw from the factory only put sealant in between the strip of screws on the mounting bracket for the trim tabs. Meaning none of the screws had sealant. This caused water to go into my transom and leak out at the bottom of the transom on the inside of my boat through a screw hole that was used to hold a hose in place. Check your transom to make sure it is still solid. I replaced all the bellows, transom seal, pivot seal, etc. Put everything back together and was still getting water in the transom when I first put it in for it's initial test run. I then pulled the motor, put the outdrive back on, sealed the water intake and put it back in the water. That's when I noticed the water coming in from a screw hole on the inside of the transom! Thats when I removed the trim tabs and found the seriously crappy job done installing the trim tabs. Reinstalled the trim tabs and put the boat back in without motor and no leaks! It's been dry as a bone all summer. Luckily for me the boat never sat in water and had low hrs. The transom feels solid (I had the transom assembly off and checked and I should be able to dry any remaining moisture out with heat) Good luck!
That was one of my first thoughts too, I actually went so far as to tilt the front of the trailer as high as I could and then use a garden hose and fill the bilge up with water [on the inside] to check for leaks, had the water level WELL past where the tabs mount, transducer holes, etc, although I dont know if I got high enough for swim platform holes, so, I will have to check that, Thanks! I left the boat with water in the bilge and climbed out and looked for leaks, it was bone dry, so, we splashed the boat and the leak returned, it was right up at the top of the transom plate, just to the right of the elbow where the raw water pump line joins. it looked just like a "bathroom tap" when you dont quite shut it all the way off, a slow and tiny [but steady] stream of water. I kept the boat in a boathouse on a lift, or just pulled it out when we where done for the day, other than maybe 2 or 3 times where it sat overnite, I had a bilge pump with a float switch and left the boat plugged in just "in case". When I would go down the next morning there would be enough water in the bilge to run the pump for 10 seconds or so, it was a small leak, but, added up over the hours, it only leaked when sitting at the dock, once underway it would stop, I assume because enough of the outdrive was out of the water to prevent the leak? I had the steering pin and bellows changed recently, which needed to be done regardless of the leak, since I had about 6" of side to side play in the outdrive. When I got the boat back I put it in the water and checked for leaks, it was bone dry, but, after sitting in water over nite, if I turn on the bilge pump I get maybe a mouthfull or two of water out of the bilge, much, MUCH, less than what used to be in there. But, I am anal about that stuff and like yourself I would like NO leaks in the bilge. I figure it MUST be the transom seal? There really are only so many places water can leak in? and if the steering pin/seal is good, and the bellows are all brand new, and I check all the other thru hull stuff as you suggested it MUST be the transom seal, at least I hope it is! LOL As I say, the leak is FAR better now, and I am sure it wont hurt anything, its September now, so, "up here" I have only about another month or so [at best] of boating left, then, I will get it changed either in the winter or first thing in the Spring. The boat sits on a trailer or lift, and if I am up to the cottage on a weekend I leave it overnite for a nite or two at most. Thanks for the help guys! While I got your attention, any ideas on how to fix a set of Instatrim indicators? I get solid lights on one side and just the top and bottom on the other, have tried EVERYTHING to try and figure out whats wrong??? Thanks for the help Michael |
Originally Posted by n20michael
(Post 3196220)
While I got your attention, any ideas on how to fix a set of Instatrim indicators? I get solid lights on one side and just the top and bottom on the other, have tried EVERYTHING to try and figure out whats wrong???
Thanks for the help Michael Swap the 2 wire plugs on the back of the gauge. If no change=bad gauge. If problem switches to opposite side=bad wireing to the ram clamp on sender. The whole kit is about $200, (I forget exact amount) I replaced mine this winter instead of trying to fix mine. The 2 plug connector at the guage is old design. New design uses 1 plug at gauge. Call Boat Leveler 's (Instatrim) tech line. They answer the phone and are very helpful. |
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