Be carefull with the general term "sandblasting".
Dependant of what blast media you use the part may have to be coated and rebaked a couple of time for proper coverage.
Blast medias are rated by coarseness- called grit. Too agressive a grit then you will need to sand your parts to remove the deep blast profile.
Personally, I would start with a glass media, in a blasting cabinet. (if you have access)
Your coater should probably do the prep work.
My .02

A good paint stripper will take most powder (a paint) off with minimal effort (let it set a few minutes. Industrial purple from Home depot will remove anodizing (a plating process, not paint).

Outgassing occurs in castings, not machined parts. Your strainer top is likely machined billet. You should not experience gassing on billet parts. We strip stuff all the time and its not an issue with billet.

Thanks for the clarification. I used paint stripper on a swim platform I'm going to have re-powdered and got a little nervous...

To elaborate a bit more.. paint stripper will usually do it. There are normally stubborn spots that may require 2 or even more applications. Rub it around with a disposable paint brush and don't leave it and let it dry up. Powder will wrinkle up just like normal paint when its loose.

On anodizing, while industrial purple works fine, if you have more than a few small pieces I'd recommend you head for the anodizer and have them strip the parts in the etch tank. Parts will require repolishing prior to reanodizing. Most anodizers will swing you a deal on stripping parts if you're taking them back for reanodize (assuming anodizer does not have in-house polisher).

Also, on castings with powder, you can still strip with paint remover. Just make sure you tell the coater so they can bake and clean them good prior to coating. Parts that have impurities in the pores outgas more than clean. Porous parts may still see some gassing, a good coater can normally minimize it though. Powder coating has some brilliant colors. The downside in salt apps is one chip and the salt gets in there and starts lifting the paint then they look like crap as well as corroding away.

Thanks for tyhe advise. I'm having a local place redo them .

I saw that your tabs were being coated from Mike @ UP yesterday. I kind of put 2&2 together when I saw them and realized you are from Red Bud.

They turned out pretty nice. I grew up with Mike. First class guy!

That he is. Ive know and worked with him for the past 20 yrs. Hope your new project turns out great.