As for oil filters, in my experience Wix makes the most commonly used filter by far in the racing industry. The majority of NASCAR teams use them, and most of them get to choose which filter to run. Unless sponsor obligations prevent it, most seem to choose the Wix Filter from what I've seen.
Since they are running high rpm pushrod V8's it seems that would be the best comparison between our engines and other motorsport applications to me.

As for break in oils, the key is balance between enough wear to ensure the rings seal against the cylinder walls (slightly lesser grade oil) and not enough wear for the rings to bed in correctly (high grade synthetics / friction modifiers etc).

The balance is between not overheating the rings and having enough lubrication but still having them bed in correctly.

Consequently, the engine builder recommendation regarding the piston ring package has always been the determining reason for me with oil choice at start up.

Piston ring technology seems to have come a long way in the last decade because less people seem to be concerned with fresh engine start up oil. At least I expect thats the reason.

Having built literally hundreds of engines over the years, but not claiming to be a professional engine builder, I believe running the new engine under reasonable load without excessive rpm too soon is just as important as oil choice for start up. Engine load forces the piston skirt (and rings) into the cylinder wall, thereby inducing friction and helping to seat rings correctly.
Too much load or excessive rpm generates heat and hurts the process. Not enough load (and / or too much idle time after start up) with too good of an oil can prevent enough friction taking place between the piston ring and cylinder wall for effective ring sealing to take place.

Back a number of years ago I used to rebuild a ton of Porsche flat six engines, and with their silicon impregnated aluminum liners being so hard it took non detergent oil on start up and a spirited drive without excessive rpm just to have the rings bed in correctly.

Not suggesting you run non detergent oil, the cast iron cylinder walls in your V8's are much 'softer' and wear more easily than the Nikisil or Alusil Porsche liners, but mentioning it just to emphasize the point.

Personally, I'd still use a lesser grade non synthetic oil on start up and try not to let it idle for too long before getting the boat in the water and putting it under some sort of constantly varying load without running it at high rpm, for at least the first 30 mins.

And if you have a flat tappet cam, another reason not to let it sit around and idle for long on first start up.

I think there are a number of professional engine builders on this forum and perhaps some of them can chime in. This is just based on my past experience over the last 20 something years, so I could be out of date I guess.

filters
 

as far as oil filters go, does anybody run the systems 1 filters in their boat engines. i run these in race car applications . i have seen a lot of Wix filters used in boats.

Everyone has their own opinion, but I like Redline in my cars. but am using Torco that contains a zinc additive in my boat engine (older 1966 289 HIPO)
I'd recommend googling them or talking to them, they were knowledgeable on the phone when I called. There is also a good website on oil called bobistheoilguy.com

i thought Torco went under about 2 years or so ago. I use a lot of VP now.