Bravo one swivel/steering shaft leak
 

I have water coming in around this shaft (at least from what I can see). The bellows are in good shape, but water is pouring in. From doing some research, it seems these shafts corrode and leak after time.
Is this what I'm looking for?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-Mer...ssoriesQ5fGear

These things seem expensive! I will be pulling motor out to change it (swapping anyway).

Yes - that can corrode - the other problem is the "square" that swivel pin fits into in the top of the gimbal ring is most likely no longer "square". This creates slop and ultimately another leak.

Check out JRMarine.com - he has some great pictures, sells those SS units, and can fix your Ring if it is destroyed. Not sure on prices, but at least the website will let you see what is going on....


Also - kudos on pulling the engine and fixing it the "right" way - my only advice would be to replace anything that you can while you are in there. I replaced U-joint bellow, Shift Bellows, bushings - EVERYTHING.

I will also say that by the time I pulled mine off, had them sand blasted, repainted, bought new bellows, etc.... I was close to the cost of a new one which I could have bolted on immediately instead of waiting for 2 weeks to get my old ones back together after paint, parts, etc...

X2

I did the very same thing last year, bought the Bender stainless swivel pin and it worked awesome, as "Seaford" says the square part of the gimbal ring is probably not square anymore, I was lucky enough to find a new gimbal ring CHEAP or I would have had Bender redo mine. there is a seal around the pin that wears away and lets water come in. Its usually more noticable on a boat that has a outdrive/transom assembly that sits below the water while docked. Mine didn't leak at all while underway, but, leaked while docked or stopped. They are quite easy to "change" the pain in the arse is tearing everything apart to GET to the damn things. I also changed all the bellows, seals, aligned the shaft, greased U joints and changed the Gimbal bearing, those parts aren't that expensive and it just makes sense to do it while you already have everything apart.

A "quick" way to check the gimbal ring to push the outdrive from "side to side" and see how much play there is, if its excessive its probably the ring. You can peek through the top of the ring and see if the steering pin moves when you push the outdrive from side to side, if it doesn't, then the play is in the ring itself. I checked mine last year and probably had SEVERAL inches of play [both ways] after I changed the ring/pin it hardly moves at all. I have also been told that you can make these parts last quite a bit longer by going to hydraulic steering

That's cheap !!!!!!!!!!!! Merc list is about 350 if I remember correctly.:drink:

Isn't pretty much EVERYTHING more money from Mercury? Last time I checked they wanted $9 for a roll of teflon tape, but, it said "Mercury" on it, so, it must be worth it, LOL!

Thanks for all the input! Seems like prices are reasonable on his site....am concerned though that it may equal the same to a new ring once its all said and done (shipping it back forth, buying bushings etc).

Is that the case? Is it almost the same price to just buy a new loaded ring?

You can check Ebay, you might find a "new" one there, I found mine there and paid around $400 for it, just make sure it will fit your application. Your other option is one that I seriously considered, and thats buying a new "transom assembly", they are usually 1500-2000 brand new on Ebay, and it will give you EVERYTHING brand new, you need to pull the motor to change them, but, you are doing that anyway. Cant beat the peace of mind knowing that EVERYTHING is brand new

Michael

Hi, My old shield had the same problem, once fixed already by changing the gimbal ring and steering pin. They both are rather expensive... Anyway, you jees to pull the engine or bore holes to the upper part of the shield to get to the steering shaft, ring etc..

P.M. Sent