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puttin a motor in my boat, what else should i replace?
Hello everyone. I am a longtime lurker and a newer member. I have a 1991 VIP Vindicator 23ft boat with a 454 merc that I managed to break last summer. I am currently having the motor rebuilt and will be installing it here in the next few weekends.
I am on a budget with this project and have some money left over. Since I have never really done much work on boats I am not totally sure what else to replace while I have it all apart. I would like to hear from you guys what is a must and what is a good idea to replace even if it isn't broken. I am trying to have a reliable boat this summer if there is such a thing. I am planning on all new belts and an exhaust gasket kit as well. Also I have read about rebuilding the sea water pump as good maintenance too. So let me here your thoughts on what else I should replace. Thanx a bunch!! Sean |
If you have it out of the boat I would pull the Transom Assembly off the boat and replace EVERYTHING - bellows, bushings, swivel seal, etc.... It would be a couple hours work that would provide maintenance free (if there is such a thing) boating for years to come.
Oh - and welcome to OSO - you'll enjoy it here. |
Another item you will need is an alignment bar. With out that your gonna go through gimbal bearings. Real quick like.
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Make sure to install a new starter, new sending units and a new bilge pump while you have the engine out....it's much easier then!!!
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Add an oil drain kit at the pan.
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All of the above, Including the donkey dick.I'm a big fan of the Vindicators. I was a dealer for VIP and sold lots of them. Biggest I ever put in them was a 496 mag b/c the 525 was too pricy. At that point I could put them in a 27 Fountain for a little more. Good luck with the project. And welcome to OSO
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Fixx
check the splines on the coupler,if they are sharp like a knife replace it..
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Originally Posted by RigMaster
(Post 3344682)
Another item you will need is an alignment bar. With out that your gonna go through gimbal bearings. Real quick like.
Originally Posted by pitts1313
(Post 3344694)
Add an oil drain kit at the pan.
Oh - assuming it is a Bravo boat I would put the Gimbal Bearing in backwards so you can remove it with ease. |
Originally Posted by seafordguy
(Post 3344748)
Or more likely U-Joints!!!
YES - I had to do that after they fact and it was a nightmare to say the least. Oh - assuming it is a Bravo boat I would put the Gimbal Bearing in backwards so you can remove it with ease. |
Originally Posted by seafordguy
(Post 3344748)
Oh - assuming it is a Bravo boat I would put the Gimbal Bearing in backwards so you can remove it with ease.
You will never get the outdrive to mate with the coupler without an alignment tool. Welcome to OSO and good tips above. I like the oil drain advise, cheap and easy to drain oil. |
Originally Posted by 1BIGJIM
(Post 3344786)
All new Gimbal Bearings can not be taken apart or greased.
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Wow guys. Thanx for all the replies so far. I do have a question ....what is an alignment bar? As for the other things, some of the mentioned items have recently been replaced but I am gonna write down and price all of your suggestions and go from there. I wont be able to afford everything but I appreciate all the suggestions.
Sean |
Oil drain kit about $30.
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The Alignment bar allows you to adjust the engine up or down,so that the outdrive shaft goes in straight.
I've seen people put them in without but they were kicking them till they could start the nuts. NOT ADVISED! If you do it this way you will be replacing the coupler. The coupler will strip out before you hurt the u-joints. Its not practical to purchase a alignment tool, if you know someone at a boat shop or maybe someone here on the board that has one you should ask to borrow/rent one. By rent one I mean a case of beer of there choice:drink: I hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by RigMaster
(Post 3344911)
The Alignment bar allows you to adjust the engine up or down,so that the outdrive shaft goes in straight.
I've seen people put them in without but they were kicking them till they could start the nuts. NOT ADVISED! If you do it this way you will be replacing the coupler. The coupler will strip out before you hurt the u-joints. Its not practical to purchase a alignment tool, if you know someone at a boat shop or maybe someone here on the board that has one you should ask to borrow/rent one. By rent one I mean a case of beer of there choice:drink: I hope this helps. At what point, or under what circumstances do you need the alignment tool? Just wondering... |
I would use the alignment tool in that situation also. The engine sits on rubber mounts. sometimes they may be worn and when you remove them may go back down different. I've seen a few people do it.
If I was going to do it I would use the bar. just in case it doesn't set back down the same. I know the brackets that are bolted to the stringer are not going to move but if the rubber is worn on the engine mounts it could end up different. Like I said, I've seen it done without using the bar. But to be safe,I'd use a alignment bar. Hope this helps Haley'sComet. |
Haley'sComet I just went over your reply again. If you remove the transom assembly. you definitely need to use the alignment bar. sorry for the confusion.
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There is a member on this board that goes by 'whoya' that makes a very good and very reasonably priced alignment tool. For what he charges for it, there is no excuse not to buy it.
Here is his ebay store with some of the other tools he is making: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/whoya235...id=p4340.l2562 |
Originally Posted by c_deezy
(Post 3344943)
There is a member on this board that goes by 'whoya' that makes are very good and very reasonably priced alignment tool. For what he charges for it, there is no excuse not to buy it.
Here is his ebay store with some of the other tools he is making: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/whoya235...id=p4340.l2562 I hope this helps him and Haley'sComet. Thanks for the link. |
Originally Posted by RigMaster
(Post 3344944)
Cool. For that price buy one. He has some cool stuff c_deezy.
I hope this helps him and Haley'sComet. Thanks for the link. |
Originally Posted by RigMaster
(Post 3344944)
Cool. For that price buy one. He has some cool stuff c_deezy.
I hope this helps him and Haley'sComet. Thanks for the link. I am buying the tool tomorrow for sure. |
Originally Posted by seafordguy
(Post 3344810)
I know they can't be greased, but I thought they still had the notches to pull the bearing out of the housing??
Buy an alignment tool. There is no reason to not check it every time you have the outdrive off. I would hope you always check the gimbal bearing when you take an outdrive out. Just put your fingers in it and roatate it, if its smooth its fine, then check the alignment. If you are R & R the original engine chances are the alignment will be real close but might need a little adjusting. Just make sure the tool slides in and bottoms out. Once you have done it you will know what we are talking about. If you are installing a differnt engine in the boat, 99% you are going to have adjust it. Anyone who has done this will tell you sometimes it's easy and sometimes its hard. Up or down, left or right. Just take your time. I had a special tool made that fits into the coupler and comes out thru the gimbal bearing. Then you have a starting point to see if you need to go up or down. Hope that helps.:drink: |
My outdrive was pulled a year ago and thins were replaced on it then so I don't think I am pulling it. Since I am putting the same motor back in the boat, do I need the alignment tool? I looked at the tool and am having trouble visualizing how it works. If you guys says its a must I will get it but it almost seemed that if I don't pull the outdrive I don't need it?
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You pulled the engine without pulling the outdrive?
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Yes I did. Unless my terminology is wrong, the outdrive is on the outside of the boat right? I had motor problems so I only pulled the motor.
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Sean,
You really need to go invest in a Mercuriser Manual. This will give you helpfull hits and instructions. I went back and read your first post. I hope who ever is rebuilding your engine has experience with marine engines, there is alot of difference between auto and marine. You will have to pull the outdrive off to put the engine back in. You also will have to buy an alignment tool. My best suggestion to you is when you put the engine back in make sure you have the fiber washer and spring on the bell housing on correctly or you will never get the engine aligned. A manual will show you how they are positioned. Start doing some searchs and read as much as you can. |
Thanks for the help. The shop rebuilding my motor has alot of marine experience so I feel good there. I didn't realize I needed to take off the outdrive to install the motor but it now makes sense to make sure everything is aligned. I am a decent mechanic but my experience with boats is very limited. Thanx for the help, I knew it seemed to easy just to drop the motor back in.
Sean |
[QUOTE=1BIGJIM;3345293]Sean,
You will have to pull the outdrive off to put the engine back in. You also will have to buy an alignment tool. /QUOTE] Little confused by this one, why do you have to pull the drive? Now yes, you will need to do so to use the alignment tool, but you don't have to have the drive off to install the motor. |
Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3344700)
check the splines on the coupler,if they are sharp like a knife replace it..
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Originally Posted by 1BIGJIM
(Post 3345164)
You pulled the engine without pulling the outdrive?
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Sometimes if you're nice your local marine mechanic will lend you his alignment tool. Can't hurt to ask.
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Originally Posted by Slamdit
(Post 3345324)
Thanks for the help. The shop rebuilding my motor has alot of marine experience so I feel good there. I didn't realize I needed to take off the outdrive to install the motor but it now makes sense to make sure everything is aligned. I am a decent mechanic but my experience with boats is very limited. Thanx for the help, I knew it seemed to easy just to drop the motor back in.
Sean |
Originally Posted by Ted G
(Post 3345396)
Trust me it is alot easier dropping it back in with the drive off. And I too have one of Whoya's tools and it is great. It is a little nicer than the Merc tool.
Agreed on pulling the drive off - it is 6 bolts and about 5 mninutes worth of work.... |
Bottom line is you need to take the drive/drives off when you are going to remove the motor/motors. I've seen guys do it without removing the drive,actually one guy and he had to remove the drive after to align it.
Save yourself alot of trouble and money. Remove the drive first before you remove the motor. The transom assembly has two spring washers that make it very hard to remove the motor with the drive on. When you put a motor in you drop it down on to the spring washers,thus trying to pull the motor forward will be very hard unless you pry the bell housing up from the transom assembly spring washers. |
Im trying to find the alignment tool link on here and can't. Could someone please help me out?
thanx, Sean |
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