First Start-up question
 

Last fall I fogged my engine (NA 502)...I guess "super fogged" would be a better description. I finally got around to first start-up yesterday and it never cleared all the oil from the cylinders after running for awhile. So I'm going to pull the plugs and clean them before my next try. I'm wondering if there is something I can spray in the cylinders to help clear or thin out the fogging oil without f-ing up the engine. As usual all help/suggestions are appreciated...thanks

I would think anything you would spray in the cylinders that would help clean up the oil is also going to strip the oil off the cylinder walls. I would put new plugs in and fire it back up and run it.

That's what I was thinking, but I just wanted to check/see what someone would do...thanks

I'm pretty sure that your problem is not leftover fogging oil in the cylinders. What you more likely have is a fouled plug (or three) which is leading to it running rough. Pop a new set of plugs in and they'll fire - cleaning everything else out.

You sure you don't have a stuck choke, sunk float, etc. that might be causing it to run rich?

Too Stroked...I just put new plugs/wire/... everything ignition last season. I'll try cleaning them 1st and if that doesn't work I'll go with new plugs. Thanks for the input.

Knot 4me...I don't have a choke and I rebuilt the carb (holly 4150) last spring so never thought about it having a problem and the its firing thats a possibility. I'll check the float/needle to make sure its working ok. Thanks again

Yes, but you fogged motor at end of season with those plugs in them. New or not, they can still foul. Good luck

Absolutely...didn't mention this before because I thought it was just being caused by the mis-fireing, but my fuel pressure gauge was jumping all over the place...I mean the needle was a blur. Never done that before. Would the mis-fire cause that?

Talk more about the fuel system. Does it have mechanical or electric pump. Is there a regulator, if so is it return style. Are you visually looking at the carburetor while running. At idle you should not see any fuel dripping from the boosters, if fuel pressure is to high it may overflow the vent tubes, if a power valve has failed fuel will drip from the boosters while idling. I doubt the fogging oil is causing any problems, how much did you use and how did you use it?

If you are going to take the time to pull plugs take the time to put new ones in

I "super fogged" my boat too. When I fired up my motor a couple weeks ago it smoked like usual with that fogger smell. Then I reved it up a bit and smoked some more. I didnt burn off all of the fogger till I got out in the bay 2 weeks ago and ripped it. Even after all of this fogger being in there it never ran rough though.

Good luck!

Boat1...I've got a mech. pump and my pressure was a constant 7 lbs last season. No regulator. I pulled the plugs after work and they were black & sootie from running way too rich is my guess. I don't know about the boosters squirting at idle because I had to keep above 1500+ rpm to keep it from dying and fuel was flowing from the primary booster, but not the secondary. The carb is a Holley 4150 dble pump and both meter blks have 8109 stamped on them, but there's no List # stamped on it and I really have no idea what the CFM is either. I know this isn't a lot to go on but...any ideas? Would a pic of the carb help I.D. it? Thanks to everyone for their input/ideas.

pics of Holley
 

Just wanted to add some pics of my holley...I'm rebuilding it tonight. Since it doesn't have a list # I wonder if someone can ID it using the pics and these #'s; 6R-7867B stamped on the top of main body, the pri. & sec. throttle plates have 180 stamped on them, both meter bodies have a 9108 stamp(not 8109 as stated above) and just for info it has 75 jets front and rear. Thanks...

Be sure to change the needle and seats with high flow .120 units. Also change the power valves with high flow 6.5. The accelerator pump diaphrams are not very expensive and I would change them also. When you start it back up be sure to set the float level and verify the fuel presuure is constant and below 8 psi. Double check your firing order with your plug wires. I also would check the rotor to make sure it is fully seated and the rotor is correctly oriented with its tab. Check you ignition timing also. Fresh plugs are always a good idea at the beginning of the season. Good Luck.

I bought the Holley double pumper rebuild kit and I know it has the 6.5 power valves, but will have to check-see if it came with .120needle seats. When I checked the clearence on the accelerator pumps I had to crank the spring totally closed before I got .015 clearance on the lever...is that normal? or should I bend the lever on the cam to give me a little spring action at the pump? When I was doing tear-down I also noticed that one of the power valves had backed off about 1/16th of an inch (I think it was the primary). When I saw that I thought that was probably the problem, but don't know for sure. One more question...since both my meters are 9108s and the float site is the same hieght on both bowls...does it make any difference which meter & bowl is on the primary side of the carb? Thanks for the advice/help...will let you know how it turns out.

The loose power valve will act just like a blown power valve and allow fuel to by-pass, that likely is your idle issue. I know it is recommended to have .015 clearance on the accelerator pump arm, i run them as tight as possible without initiating stroke. You want the accelerator pump to squirt as soon as the throttle is moved. Be sure sure and spray out all the small air bleed passages and the two small fuel passages behind the power valve. Be sure the power valve gasket seats correctly on the power valve, they can move around and leak. The needle and seat you have from the kit will be fine to use. I buy all parts individually for flexability. Be sure and line up the accelerator pump holes in the bowl gasket with the passages. It makes no difference where you place your metering blocks, they are the same, other Holley carburetors may not have that luxury. Good Luck.

Did you by a standard double pumper rebuild kit or the HP rebuild kit? The HP kit has the larger needle/seat. If your need/seat is one piece it's the standard kit. If it's two pieces you have the larger needle/seat.

good luck!

Will do and thanks for all your help!:drink:

I didn't even think to ask for an HP kit...DAMN! My needle/seat is one piece so it must be the std kit. I'll know better next time.:drink:

Got it back together and it's runing GREAT! Thanks again for your help boat1.

Great news. Glad you got it sorted out.