Closed cooling systems
 

Im thinking of adding closed cooling system to a boat Im buying. I operate in the salt water 100% of the time.
Does anyone have experience with these and are they worth the money?
The engines I want to put them on are the Mercruiser 350 Mags.

Thanks

yes, in salt water a great idea...saves the engine and manifolds...

Give a call to Mr.Cool they advertise up here and can answer all your questions plus have good prices.

Thanks!
 

Thanks for the help guys. I will look up Mr. Cool.

closed cooling
 

Here's an option as well http://www.keitheickert.com/p-14010-...o-360-cid.aspx

@ Kepp
 

With the EconoCool system I still use sea water to cool the manifolds? With the closed water system how do I do flush the manifolds?

The KEPP ststem would take the water from the heat exchanger and run it thru the exhaust manifolds and out.

A fully closed system would also run antifreeze thru the manifolds.

How do you think you cool your engine??
* Think for chrissakes...

There is no need to be an a$$...

Well I rather be an ass and make him think before some else is an A$$ and takes his money for a simple flush. This is a No-brainer.

No Brainer
 

Its not a no brainer for me. This is all new to me. And maybe im not posing the question right.
Right now I know how my engines are cooled. Raw Sea Water up thru the drive engine and out the exhaust.

When I flush the engine now I hook freshwater up to the muffs and run the motors.

My question is if I install a KEPP system it says it uses the closed water system to cool the engine but uses raw water to cool the manifolds.

Im just not sure how that would work. Would I still have to flush both motors like I do now with the KEPP system? I was looking for a system that would prevent me from having to flush my engines after each use since all I do is boat in salt water. But maybe thats not possible.

All the closed systems still use sea water. The sea water runs through the heat exchanger and then out the exhaust. You still have to flush the salt/sea water out of the exchanger and exhaust.

the closed cooling system only protects the internal engine itself, not the manafolds

You are right, this is a no brainer... you are an ass.
If his posts bother you why do you keep coming back to this thread? This guy had a question that you misunderstood so there really isn't any need to be rude....

Closed Systems
 

Ok, apparently I misunderstood what closed systems do entirely. What is the benefit to having one?

fixx
 

if you have ever seen the inside of a salt water engine that was rarely flushed you would see why,the engines will literally fall apart from the inside out..if it were plumped correctly using the iron manifolds with the antifreeze running through them and using SS risers you would save a ton of money on repairs,the engines would last longer running a constant temperature so on and so forth..the only thing that would need to be flushed would be the heat exchangers and the risers.. also saves time flushing because you would not be running the engine as long to just flush the heat exchanger and risers.

airshares,

Nothing wrong with your question and it is a good one. It is my understanding that there are two types of closed cooling systems, (1) Half System & (2) Full System. The Half System is designed to cool just the engine block and intake manifold by circulating antifreeze solution thru them and then thru several tubes inside the heat exhanger where the raw water is then pumped thru the housing of the heat exchanger where it contacts the tubes carrying the antifreese soloution, asorbing the heat from the tubes and then goes to the exhaust manifolds to cool them and then exits thru the exhaust. A Full System is just like the Half System but includes circulating the antifreeze soluotion thru the exhaust manifolds with raw water that cools the heat exchanger exiting thru the risers/tails of the exhaust.

(Please note that the Full System is usually only available for "stock" engines. Engines that are modified to high horspower ratings produce much more heat and therefore are not effective for cooling because the heat exhanger can not effectively handle the additional heat from the produced by the exhaust manifolds).

It would still be a good idea to "flush" the exhaust manifolds periodiacally if not after every use if your raw water source is salt water.

On your system you could placie ball valves and a garden hose fitting in the incoming raw water supply line to the heat exchanger to allow you to flush the heat exhanger and there by flushing the exhaust manifolds if you choose to go with a Half System.

Benifits (in my thinking) would allow the use of Aluminum heads without the worry of corrosion from the salt water, more stable engine temps and less corrosion on block internals. By using a "full" closed cooling system, dry joint aluminum exhaust manifolds or dry joint stainless headers would also last longer as the coolant flows from the block thru manifold then thru exhaust manifolds/headers then returning to the heat exchanger with the raw water that cools the heat exchanger exiting thru the risers/tails. With the staggerd engine arrangement there should not be a fitment and congestion issue of the added heat exhanger.

If you would like I will try to post a drawing of how to arrage the ball valves and garden hose fitting tomorrow.

Here is a diagram of a full system

Here is the half-System diagram.

Closed Systems
 

Thanks CIG,

Thats a big help. I think the full closed system would be best.
My engines are all stock 350 mags. They have 360 hours of mixed use on them.
Would it be pointless now to add the full system or should I go for it?
I just bought the boat and from this day out its all salt water usage for me.

For the couple hunder bucks extra I'd go with the full system. Your will save replacing the manifolds and risers every few years, plus the piece of mind.

www.perfprotech.com
www.mrcool.us

Thanks!
 

Thanks CIG3,

Im going with the Perf. full system. I like the videos and clear instructions to install on the website. And they are a couple hundred less than Mr. Cool.

I do have one question. Before filling the new system with fresh fluid how Do I flush my engine? Do I need to flush it with the fluid that will be in the closed system or can I just do a fresh water flush like I normally do on the engines after use in the salt water?

I plan to do this install with the boat in the slip on the Hydro Hoist. If you think this is a bad idea please let me know.

Thanks Again

I would drain the block and manifolds first. Then fill the system with a calcium disolving solution loke CLR and let is sit for a few hours. Then flush with fresh water and drain again. You are now ready for your install.

While your at it like a previous post stated, I would add the shut off valve with a "T" with a hose adapter to be able to flust the heat exchanger after a run.

T valve
 

Good Idea.

Sorry if these questions are stupid. But I have no engine experience at all.

As far as draining the engine, Where is the plug to do this and can I even access it with the motors still in the boat?

T valve
 

Cliff MB can you post the drawings for the valve?

Flushing Diagram
 

airshares,

as requested here is the diagram for the flushing of the heat exhanger.

Flushing Diagram - Jpeg
 

Attached jpeg

Thanks Cliff!

I have what I THINK is a "half system" I boat in fresh water only, but, its muddy/weedy in spots (including near my dock where boat sits and idles) is there any benefit to "Flushing" a fresh water system? If so, what do recommend for flushing? Also, how do I do it?

Thanks!
Michael

Flushing a fresh water system
 

I assume you have a Bravo drive. All you do get yourself a set of Muffs for engine flushing. Clamp them over the water pick ups on the drive and connect a hose to it. Turn on the water and start the engines. Let them run for about 5 minutes to flush the motor.
In salt water I use to taste test the water coming out of the exhaust and if it wasn't salty I knew it was probably good. Being that you are already in fresh water I would just let it run for about 4-5 minutes. Then shut it down turn off water and youre done.

Yes, I usually flush a few times a year using a hose/muffs, but, the water I use is from the river, it goes through filters before going to the cottage, but, its not as clean as "city" water. Also, as anyone who has ever taken apart a kitchen tap, old water heater, or replaced any home plumbing can tell ya, fresh water has deposits too, calcium, algae, etc. So, I am thinking after years of use [even it was "fresh" water] there is probably a build up of deposits and assorted "crap" in the cooler and heat exchanger. So, I wondererd if it was worth flushing with CLR or something similiar, and, what the easiest way to do it would be?

Thanks for the input!
Michael

I put full systems on my Chris Craft Stinger (350 cu.in 260 HP). The kits came with 160º thermostats which actually slightly cut top end over the stock 140º stats (which I changed back). As I used this boat in salt water year-around I was able to add a cabin heater, a real plus. Another mod I made was to add high flow water pumps on both engines (not the drives - so there is no confusion). Before the engine high flow pumps the temps would jump up 25-40º when I came off plane to an idle. After a few minutes idling the temps would come back down but the high flow engine water pumps eliminated the temp spikes. Both engines were mildly upgraded with heads, intakes, cams, and roller rockers - guesstimate HP 300. Stay on top of the zinks in the heat exchangers. Mine disappeared in a hurry! BTW - as a former teacher I appreciate the patience most members have with new Fountain owners. Answering a post with "That's easy to do." and giving no instruction on how to solve the problem is of little value.