opions on 2 different ways to winterinze the engine cooling system.
 

I would like to hear people opinions about 2 different ways to winterize the engine cooling system with red pop.
I am using the -50f stuff in the engine and the engines are open raw water cooled.

The first way is the traditional way of letting the thermostat open while running the engine then letting the water pump suck in the red pop and letting the stuff sit in the engine block for the winter.

The second way is doing the same thing except after the engine is shut off I open would open the petcocks and let the stuff drain out so the cooling passages are empty.
The reason behind this is IF the red pop was diluted and had a slush point higher than 10F there would be room for the slush to expand and not damage anything. I realize that NOT having the red pop in there does nothing to protect the metal. Also, the way I am getting the red pop into the motor is I am using the winterizer jug from Camco

i would say method 2 is the better choice but im not a fan of the jug at all. you dont like the warm em up drain em and then fill em back up from the t stat housing method?

On my cruiser, I warm the motors up, then opened the drains for the blocks and exhaust manifolds and the lowest hose. That removed most all of the water. Then reinstalled the drains and hooked my flush to the drive and ran till AF came out the exhaust, then ran another 1-2 gals thru just to make sure no dilution. That boat sits on the lift and sees freezing temps, so wanted the highest concentration. Only takes a few minutes longer to drain and will eliminate the chance of dilution when ran with AF

My Fountain is home garage kept, never gets below freezing. There I just ran to temp, then ran 6gals of AF thru. It may not be 100% non diluted, but I don't need -25* protection.
Both boats are kept with the AF in them for the rust inhibitors. Not a fan of empty blocks. Opinions vary on that though

drain all the water out first,put the plugs back in, pour anti freeze down the hose run the motor to get the air out, then top off, i leave all my plugs out exchaust and block and impropeller plate,stabil my fuel and fog motor with 2cycle oil down the carb,couple guys that race opa showed me that 8 years ago and never had a problem,

Do exactly as US F said. It's not good to leave it dry in any way. Run the stabilizers through while warming it up on the hose, then fog when about done with running pure AF.

Depending on what you do with your out drive, there are 3 ways of doing it I think.
The best imo is to remove it after the hose run and drain it, plug the inlet holes and exhaust up, fill with AF and store inside. That is what I do.
Second option is the same, but leave it on the boat and still run the AF from the raw water hose in the bilge.
Third is to run the AF into the muffs after draining. One more thing I do 1-2 seconds before the motor stops from the fogging or shut down, is to block the exhaust with a bunch of rags, just to leave the exhaust wet from the AF. If you use method 3, then plug up the drive quickly, to keep the AF in there.

Pull your thermostats out - fill a tub with antifreeze mix, pump it through with a sump pump hooked up to your fresh water flush system. Cut if off when you start to see AF coming out your exhaust.

LOL I love it

That directed at me?!?!

That is basically what I do every year....

Not trying to be a smart azz but being in the marine business I see a lot of engines boogered up either due to freeze damage or stripped out thermostat housings with silicone hanging out the sides. We sell thermostats with gaskets every year to people who use this method. There is no benefit in pulling out the thermostat. If you understand the water system, what you do need to do is DRAIN THE BLOCK AND MANIFOLDS. After this, you pump your antifreeze in.
Never use the pink antifreeze that is designed for water systems....always use the blue that has anti-corrosion additives.
Just my 2 cents!

My buddies and I have been doing this for years works great not one problem.