Offshoreonly.com - Hydralic engine hatch actuator to electric?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by GAZ (Post 3598563)

I just got the Single Actuator Accelerator Relay from CP Performance and need a little clarification on the wiring please. It has a red and black wire..red goes to 12 volt positive battery, Black goes to ground. Then it has two white wires that I think go to the hatch actuator motor? Then on the side of the relay it has 4 terminals. The instructions say the two middle ones are for the positive wires from the switch and the two outside ones are for the negative wires from the switch. Problem is my switch only has two wires coming back to the actuator motor. Do I need a different switch? Or do I need to run a couple more wires?

I would give them a call to verify this, but more then likely what you would need to do is dissconnect the ground wire from your dash switch so it only shoots out 12v+
Then on the terminals of the box where it calls for a "negative from switch" you would just hook those direct to ground and the two leads from your dash switch would hook to the middle terminals (12v+) you would need to test it out to make sure they are in the correct positions...may need to flip them if the hatch doesnt go up/down according to the switch

Or you can make your own from the diagram i made a few years back :D

Instead of 12v+ from the switch to the engine compartment....you would dissconnect the positive and have the switch shoot a ground. Much safer in the event of a short. You dont have a long run of hot wire trying to burn up!

Thats for a system with two relays...heres another i made for just one relay that helps the actuator get a boost only for the Up swing when its under the heaviest loads.....you wouldnt need one for the down as the hatch weight would help it go down and the actuator doesnt need alot of juice. You want to keep the relay as close to the battery and the actuator as possible to keep the wire resistance as low as possible.

I did Wally's setup a few years back. Easily doubled the speed of the electric actuator. It no longer sounded sick when raising the hatch!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 3600385)

This looks Great! I'm going to try this this weekend. Thanks for your help everyone. I will let you all know how it goes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 MAIDEN AMERICA (Post 3593299)

It's just a relay.
The hatch switch triggers the relay which sends power straight from the battery to the actuator.
Basically 4 wires, 2 circuits
1 battery voltage from key on power through fuse to switch to relay
2 to ground
That's circuit 1
Circuit 2
3 from battery voltage to fuse to relay
4 from relay to actuator to ground

Keep the relay as close to the actuator as possible. Circuit 1 could be 16G wire. Circuit 2 should match actuator wires.

I found a remote control relay online for $44 that looked like CP's. Basic relay kits are about $16 at NAPA. Get a plastic bodied kit with wire ends not pigtails. Seal the wire end with silicone and the connector end with dielectric grease.

Damn. Forgot about down. That box would save a lot of space!

You can get the relay kit at Summit Racing for like $10 bucks or so, but it doesn't come with a box.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 3600385)

Do you know if there is a particular relay that I should buy? I went to. A few local car parts stores thinking they would sell a standard Bosch relay, but none did.

I actually just ordered a set of these:

Relay:

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...20/40A%20SPDT/

Socket:

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...12%22%20LEADS/

these are the sealed type that have a nice gasket around the socket and fits inside the relay skirt. Dont think they are "waterproof" but sure look like it! And the best part about it is for the most part all wired up...just need to connect to the wires like shown above and you are good to go.

:)