battery cables
 

So I am getting ready to do my dual battery setup and wondered about cables. Do I need marine cables or just solid copper or will any battery cable work. I am fresh water only

I cant imagine marine grade is any different than auto quality cable they are both coates and an engine compartment on a boat cant be much different than a car as they both are hot and get moisture. Some may see it otherwise. But I try to refain from marine items when possible as they are twice the cost and do not provide anything different. NOt saying on all things but on a lot of things they arent much different.

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Grade%20Wire/

Tinned wire for corrosion resistant
High strand count....very flexible


I use nothing but their wire and connectors. All very high quality and prices that are such it's hard to justify using lesser quality products

There is a HUGE difference in components and quality in true marine grade items versus run of the mill automotive products. There is also a big difference in environmental issues within the marine world versus land based uses. You are making a big mistake by going "cheap". I woudl not take 4402's advice.

didnt say go cheap and I said not all products, but a lot of products are painted black the package is labled marine and that is about it. Like I said do your HW first. I have non marine batteries, replaced an alternator with non marine and its been going strong for three years with out an issue. You are right in many instances, but it just depends on what your doing. Fountain wanted 3-4 bucks a foot for foam that goes around hatches, door, engine hatch etc. Went to HD got the same stuff for pennies and its lasting. Like I said be smart. Battery cables from auto zone will be no different than west marine, I would just ensure the cable ends are made or coated with something non corrosive.

Actually, no.

WM uses Ancor brand wire and cables. A high quality marine product that is both tinned and flexible. BTW, WM prices are high high high.


Never seen a cable of such from Autozone. But they will work just fine, especially if the ends are sealed. The cables in my Baja were plain auto grade cables that lasted 16 yrs, but showed signs of corrosion on a few ends. I replaced all with Marine grade cables.


The marine cables vs automotive flexibilty is like camparing a rope to a hanger. Sometimes that alone is a blessing. Welding cables are comparable to the flexibilty of marine cables.

Autozone was just an example. Yesh you are right WM is litterally double on just about anything. I try to avoid them like the plague but they are the only thing for an hour if I really need something. When they have sales its actually good priced I got 10ft of the nice thick dock line for like 4 bucks on sale. Usually I product test research then go home and purchase.

Another example example of "marine" merc oil fitler 12-14 bucks a peice just got two wix filters for 13 bucks. Guessin there is no difference.

And what happens on the one unfortunate day when a friend goes to start the boat without hitting the blowers on and ignites the fumes in the bilge with non marine alternator that doesn’t have spark screens on it? When they do an investigation and find that, then insurance will not pay out! Then you SOL! :(

Yes i agree that the cost of marine items is most times WAY over blown. And allot of times i find creative ways to get around it....like in your case, i once bought a non marine alternator after mine crapped out.....difference is i swapped the guts out of the new one into the original case to keep the spark screen's in place so it would still be "marine" rated. Its the little things that turn into big problems down the road.

And back to the original topic...battery cables on a car may not have to be marine rated....but i have yet to have a truck that didn’t end up having a problem a few years down the road with the battery cables getting all corroded!! Maybe i keep my trucks too long i don’t know.....My current 98 Tahoe has 250K on it! :D

Tinned wire is the way to go even with freshwater use.

If you dont need greater than 1/0, another option : http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...egory=Kolossus Fleks Kable
Very flexible and heavy, like a lead rope.

GenuineDeal looks easy if you have smaller run and know a length, them doing the crimp minght be worth a premium.

Use di-electric grease for added protection at connections.

Thanks for the link US-1 !!

You're welcome.

Excellant products, great prices, instant shipping. No reason not to use them. :)

Yeah thanks US1...I just ordered some stuff from them and they were awesome to deal with.

I had a couple battery cables made up and ordered some other supplies, I talked with Mike there, they shipped fast and the prices were the best around! :evilb:

For example if you are using 1/0 cable, don't get the cheap PVC 133 strand cable. Get supper flex 1025 strand or larger, this is normal automotive battery/welding cable, this is resistant to abrasion, water, acids, oil, salt, ozone and chemical and UV damage. Then get some tin-platted battery ends and some heavy wall adhesive lined shrink tubing. Make sure you get a good seal over the wire and battery terminal with the shrink tube and you won't have any issues for the next 15 to 20 years.

I had seen the genuinedealz site and they looked pretty nice. thanks I may go that route.

I have genuinedealz wiring that is only a few yrs old but is in salt (i.e. even salt in the cabin through a hatch - long story) and has over 500+ running hours and has held up great. Have some more of it doing a stereo run from batteries to cabin and all around with around 350 hrs and no probs. I was impressed when I got it and still am.