stainless maine long riser dry conversion
 

i have a sbc procharged and having massive reversion problems need to modify them to dry. im have decided to seal the wet holes up and weld a bung in to dump over the transom. my main questions are do i still use internal flappers and if so do i drill a few small holes to still cool the flappers and rubber coupler that meets the tails and risers. will the tips get to hot?

i doubt int flappers will survive in a dry exhaust. i would run the ugly rubber externals. even they will be eventually burnt up. but cheap and easy to change.

Why don't you get a piece of stainless pipe the same diameter as the inner pipe on the riser and weld it on as an extension. Extend it as close as you can to the transom. Water will then mix with the exhaust very near the tips.

I would not divert water overboard at the riser because exhaust gas is still very hot there and there would be no further cooling as it continues out the transom (I'm smelling burning fiberglass as I type).

Did you fix the gasket leak? Mine did just like your until i fixed the riser gasket. It was pushing water out were the riser met the manifold at a low idle. I had a blown the gasket. Or are you getting a lot of water.

what type of exhaust are you running?

Stainless marine with thru hull risers. So you could see how surprised I was to see water.

[IMG]http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...w/P1010200.jpg[/IMG]

carpi i was still having water issues so i removed the manifolds and the intake manifold and checked for leaks found nothing that i could see. reintalling tomorrow and firing it up will see what happens. going to start it up with the manifolds and risers dry to test and work my way from there. who extened your pipes and how much can you take a pic of the tail pipes for me if your able to.

thanks

Stainless Marine will extend them for you. I had a set done a few years back and they came back like brand new. I think it was about $900 with everything.

They are actually full length risers made by stainless. Bought them from that guy in Florida for 600. They are used of course otherwise pretty sure they would be right around 2000. That is why i had to make new exhaust holes. cheaper to do a little fiberglass work.

how did you check for leaks? i stand man-riser combo up and fill with water. then look in exh ports for drips. hillbilly pressure test...