New build 454 stroked
 

So i found a 454 short block at daddysos marine in pompano near me. bored out .30 with some domed piston and a stroker crank, still getting the details, but it does have a steel crank studded and aftermarket rods. When i asked him if it was a 496 rotating assembly he said know just stroker crank. So how does that compare??
From there he said he would warranty the build and throw brand new gm rectangular port heads on it,and a gm 502 cam with aftermarket oil pan. He is telling me 10.5:1 compression i told him multiple times i want a 500 plus hp motor... what do you pro's out there think..
I have a .6 lift bob m cam that i wanted him to install but he wants to stay from that and again put in the 502gm cam...... Please give me some feedback Thanks

call refs dude. S fl builders are a crap shoot unless you go big bucks

std bore on a 454 is 4.250,so +.030 with a 4,250 stroke crank makes it 489 cu in,it would need to be bored +.060 to be a 496.i hope this info helps you to understand.

I was referring to the whole build together being a solid build, I understand a 496 rotating assembly has a .5 longer stroke.... His build has a strocker crank so am assuming a .25 longer than stock stroke but his connecting rods are stock from what he told me, he has been in business 20 years

I think compression going to be a bit high...

He's going to let me know today the piston dome size. Appreciate the input

i think it will make 500plus hp look at the parts there should be part numbers on the crank

unless you are getting a "steal" of a price i would steer clear and just look for a 502 setup. the reason being, the 502 has a forged crank, rods and pistons, 4 bolt mains and a roller cam right out of the box.

and, i agree, 10.5 to 1 is a bit too much compression for an iron head marine application.

I have heard ALOT of horror stories about Daddy-o's also

Rod ratio isnt ideal using a stock 6.135 rod on a 4.25'' crank. Better off with a longer rod, 6.385.

GM 502 cam means nothing unless we have a part number, or cam specs. GM offered several cams in 502's.

I'll get details, what horror stories?? Examples

He has the short block so I'm going to put pressure on him for all the details..

only the gen6 comes with roller cam.

It's a gen 6 short block

Id be leary of a saltwater block .030 over. Especially a production block.

Just went through the same motor crap you are doing, I'm on my 4th motor. I would check that block out, if the pistons are still in it measure the deck height, if the decks need cut like mine did, they would not clean up because of rust, the pistons were going to be sticking out of the holes, and on your other post about a stroker kit, well I have did that whole deal twice now, first kit was EAGLE 4.25 stroke, 4340 crank, H beam rods and SRP piston. I can tell you NEVER again EAGLE, nice material but their machine work SUCKS, my brand new crank had to be turned .020 on the rods to fix it, the journals were hour glass shaped and some of the throws were over stroked and some were under stroked - nice crank just not machine work, I called EAGLE and they said I should of sent it back, so that was cool of them, but I already had it turned. But I will tell you, the next kit I pieced it together myself, this time I went with SCAT, once again the 4.25 stroke 4340 crank this time the PRO I-beam rods and ICON pistons and let me just say, me and my machinist were very impressed with everything, the crank was spot on every journal perfect, the rods perfect, it really makes it easy when you go to do the bearing clearances when they are like that!! I was using a dial bore gauge that measure down to .0001 so all I'm saying is from now on I'm a SCAT man!! I went through a MK IV bowtie block (ended up unusable), had to buy a NEW DART BIG M block (ended up giving up on that motor due to too much power. They say the 548 would break a stock BRAVO drive) , I went through a GEN V block (marine motor ended up junk) finally I got a GEN VI block which is perfect. So when I tell you I've went through it, I'm there brother, oh did I mention $12,000 later and still have not got 1 together YET!!! :angry-smiley-038:

One important thing my machinist told me about GEN V and GEN VI blocks that I never thought of is you have to inspect the head bolt threads in the block, especially if it was a marine block because the holes are not blind so water mostly salt water can get to the thread from the back side and rust or corrode the threads, he has had it where the threads were real loose when tapped that when you go and torque the head down the bolt hole strips or pulls out. Just passing it on to you for something eles to keep in mind.

Incorrect captain. The mark iv blocks have head bolt holes open to the water jackets.

Not incorrect on the GEN V and GEN VI that I was refering to, but you are right I did not metion the MK IV block, Sorry about that, I should have included The MK IV block as well, you are correct about that one also, my brand new DART block has blind holes no worries there.

Thanks for the help guys i will be ge4tting more info on short block parts monday... But the block looks great the water ports are very clean..

Gen V and VI are blind holes. At least everyone i have seen.

without getting into a pissing contest, which would be silly, I figure a picture is worth a thousand words, I went into the garage and took a picture of my latest GEN VI engine, all head bolts go right through. I've had every big block made MK IV 454, MK IV Bowtie, GEN V, GEN VI and Just bought a DART, now I can't say anything for the 502 block because I haven't seen one of them yet, that one could very well be blind head bolt holes. Maybe thats the one you have been seeing.

Yea, I was referring to the 502 blocks. After re reading, I see the OP was looking at a used 454 block. So I apoligize for that!

I'd still be very cautious with any used saltwater block, and unless a valid sonic test was performed, I wouldnt bother with it.