Power Steering actuator removal
 

I have a 79 Formula that leaks power steering fluid out of the actuator. In 4 hours of running I leaked a quart of fluid into the bilge. I want to replace it but I cant figure out how to remove it. Whats the trick?

It's easier than it looks, remove the p/s lines, remove the pin to the steering arm that goes through the transom, remove the nut & bolt from the steering cable & unscrew the cable from the actuator, loosen the upper & lower pivot bolts on the transom plate ( the big ones with lock washers) & the actuator should come right out & slide off of the cable. Hope that helps, Randy

You may have to get creative on getting the large bolts out that mount it to the transom assembly, especially the one on the bottom. They are on there TIGHT, and they can be a biotch to break loose. I had to use a stubby box end wrench and hold a large pipe against the end of it while a friend whacked on the pipe with a big hammer to break it loose. There is not a lot of room between the bolt and the back of the block.

I went through all that hell replacing mine, only to find a small cut in the high pressure line that may have been responsible for the leak. I found this only AFTER I had the new one mounted and hooked up, so I don't even know if my original was bad. :mad: Check the lines very carefully to make sure that is not the source of your leak. It looked for all the world that mine was leaking from the actuator, but now I am not so sure.

Just remember the new style actuator has different hose fittings connecting to the high and low psi lines. I could not find a good way to convert those to the old hoses so I had to buy new hoses from merc

Once you have it off, take it a hydraulic hose shop and they can probably replace the seal in it for less than buying a new actuator.

Is there only one seal? I cant see exactly where its leaking but I know its the actuator and not the lines.

I was gonna post the same thing, there are adapters available, just hard to find on a sat afternoon.

Yea, I ordered some earls fittings to do it based on info I found off the net, no workie, local hydraulic shops were bambozzeled when I asked for sae to metric conversions.

you are far better replacing with the late model one, not that $$ plenty new ones on ebay, if you P/S does not have O-ring fitting just change that 1" wrench, no big deal..also if you have the old style pre 1990 the new style piece is smaller and does away with the other 2 lines as well that run to the cylinder that goes away as well

whats the difference between an early and late model one besides the fittings?