I don't believe an orifice is necessary with disc brakes . This gives you a minimum size that will still allow good pressure . No orifice for me , I want all the brake pressure and return flow I can get . Quote from Champion Trailers article..... " Also be sure that the master cylinder tubing adapter orifice is bored to a minimum of .0625" . This will facilitate the return flow of fluid to the master cylinder on the return stroke. "

If your speaking about the rubber washer behind the diaphragm valve you removed , the rubber washer stays .

ok, rubber stayed, figured that out on my own. Thanks for the other write up. The directions were terrible in the kit, not that the brake system was hard to install, it just left out all these little tid bit type things.

Ill have to do some checking on the orfice, the one I have is off a DICO 23744, don't know if that is a 10 or 20 but is the smaller of the two orfices in the link.

Maybe you do just pitch the orifice fitting for discs and replace it with the lockout solenoid....

It's been about 6 years since I did mine and it's not here where I can look at it. I suppose if your reverse lockout solenoid has the same NPT thread where it can just screw into the back of your master cylinder, just take the orifice out and put the lockout solenoid it. Now that I think about it, I think that is what I ended up doing...sorry for the wrong statement before.

If you have a lockout pin, then you wouldn't need a lockout solenoid, and in that case you would need a different orifice size...but the Titan's don't have a lockout pin, at least mine didn't.

http://www.championtrailers.com/TDMO10MANUAL.pdf

Yes , pitch it or drill it , you want as much fluid movement as possible with disc brakes .

roger, reverse solenoid is on order. If the male end fits the MC then that's what we will do, if it fits the orfice, then I will drill out the orfice as its only like pin prick hole size right now. Got the MC modified and installed. Second set of brakes for the other side will be here on Tuesday, then we will be done.

Overall not a bad job to do, just trying to get all the right parts, and between vague instructions from Kodiak, it made the job a lot longer. If I had to do it again, probably an hour to 1.5hrs per wheel vs probably double to triple that the first time.

I just went through this on my trailer. I installed a new titan 6 actuator, removed the brass fitting on the rear of the master cylinder (the brass fitting is 1/8 npt on one side and flare on the other, made to accept the line), screwed the bypass solenoid into the master and installed a new 5 pin harness. I only went about 5 miles trying everything out but the brakes worked well(Kodiac). I would recommend buying a power bleeder to bleed the brakes. It made the job so easy. I bleed the brakes in less than 20 minutes. I bought it from summit racing for about $70 shipped. I couldn't imagine bleeding the brakes without it.

last night I put the the solenoid on, the old orfice I had to use, I just drilled it out it was easy. the hole was the same size as the male end on the solenoid but different threds, luckily i found an adapter online that said to use for old DICO acuators. hooked solenoid to adapter than into the orfice. Hooked one lead off the solenoid to the trailer ground and the other lead into the blue BRAKE wire on the 5 way, then im going to plug that into a 7 way adapter.

Almost done with this frigging project, have the other side brakes off waiting for the kit. Question is the old hose that went into the accuator has a male threaded end, it fits into the solenoid. Problem is its going to be very tight against the tracker jack that sits right behind it. No way to move the trailer jack. I was thinking the hose will probably end up cracking as its going to have to kind of pinched against it. So I bought another hose last night that has the flare end with a 90 degree coming off it, and that will fit. Questions is does it matter that its now a 90 degree instead of just a male end going into it.

The 90 will work fine.