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Originally Posted by Fordified1
(Post 3875823)
A friend I work with who's into performance boats mentioned that the plastic housings were prone to failure, but I'm pretty sure mine is metal. I have a spare from an older boat that I know is metal.
http://boats.wholesalemarine.com/ind...%20*807151A14* |
Wow, that makes me want to get out there with a "good" GPS and watch the tach much closer. I was over 4500 rpm, I just honestly don't know how much. Playing with the trim etc etc kept my focus away from the tach. I may also hook another tach to it on the hose and see how accurate my stock tach is. With more power I would then either have the props worked over or change to a 26" prop set. I don't think I need to be spinning my stock cast-piston short block to 5400. These are options I would explore after working on the engine. I can be buying parts through the summer and be ready to swap out parts next winter. You will need a serious amount of additional torque to spin 26" B3 props. Without stroking, jacking compression, or going with a BB you will be limited in the increase in torque and thus the ability, in my opinion, to turn a 26" prop set. I'm not saying you won't increase power with your mods, but not 2" worth of additional pitch type power. Shoot for a good set of heads/valves, valve train, cam and keep the prop set. |
Thanks for all your input guys, I really appreciate it.
. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...34660348_n.jpg Bob Canyon Lake, TX |
Keep us posted on the progress and best of luck.
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Specs on my vortec 350
Drilled and tapped for studs 1.6 full roller rockers Comp 918 beehive springs Comp roller cam XR269 218/224 with 112 RPM air gap Vinci 750 Holley 1 3/4" primary hooker headers. That combo should be good for up to 420hp+ and 450+ tq. You won't have the significant benefit of headers though. Stay away from heads off HD trucks as they have inserts for the exhaust valves that restrict flow. The cam I used could work with out headers. |
I did a similar upgrade a couple of years ago to my 93 Crownline 220BR. I ended up using a set of vortecs from a 602 crate motor (low hours), a set of springs with shallow retainers that would allow me to run to .525 lift, I drilled and tapped for shoulderless screw in studs (probably overkill), I installed a comp cam XM 270 HR cam, and I put a holley 600 marine double pumper on it. I spin it to 5000 and picked up 5-6 mph as I remember. I never did get the carb tuned perfectly but for the most part it runs well. My motor was a factory roller cam motor so the cam swap was easy. I think I had about 1200 into it by the time it was all said and done. I can just barely here the cam at idle and have no signs of reversion with the stock exhaust. The motor had just rolled 400 hours when I did it and now it has a little over 500.
If I had it to do over again I would probably go with either a slightly smaller cam or degree it in and set it for a bit more bottom end instead of stabbing it in straight up, but my boat is big and heavy and needs the torque. Here is a link to my thread, there were some smart people chiming in with some good information that was very helpful. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...head-swap.html |
the bravo 3 is what is limiting your top speed. it is great for cruising and pullling tubes-skiers, etc. but it is not a speed demon. just abouit first post said it. you wanna go faster, try a bravo 1. might even be able to borrow one for test run...
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