Distributor assembly options for 6.2?
 

Looks like I need a new distributor assembly and they want around 700 for a Mercury one. That would keep me off the water for a while. It seems like there has to be an aftermarket "marine" one or I am sure there are a slew of aftermarket small block Chevy options? I just don't know how to find an equivalent to the Mercury.

Any ideas? Thanks!

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...-Distributors/ or maybe see if they will rebuild your old one

I suppose I should also say that my problem is that I broke only one plastic wing that the distributor cap screws in to. I am told I can't buy the piece only the whole assembly. Can I buy that piece aftermarket or am I locked in to the whole assembly still?

is it a GM est dist ? a lot were...it's just a std GM est all the same..except the module which is specific to marine apps...reuse you old one or get a new marine module and a new auto dist...what happened to yours ? bushing/shaft ? not much to them...

http://captainyarrr.demand-performan...istributor.jpg

This is the only part I need. It crumbled when I unscrewed it last weekend. Called my parts guy and he said I have to buy the whole assembly but I find that hard to believe when I only need that piece the cap screws in to.

Obviously I can't just get the plastic wing, but I think the plastic part as a whole should be available or if I have to replace more I am sure it is less than $700.

That is the whole distributor housing. They are plastic.

Using Mallory part number 9-26751 will get you in the $420.00 range with a good google search.
http://www.partman.com/dist-v-8-crab...879150a87.html

Maybe it the picture but the housing looks metalish not plastic? upon further research i found it to say All-billet, 2-piece housing construction replaces weak, crimped together factory-cast housing and stamped plate,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-...b0e5a2&vxp=mtr

Keep in mind that you'll want to find a Distributor housing that was made after 2004. Back in 03, mercruiser had service bulletin No. 2003-06 out about a redesigned vent screen.
http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/d...fi-nostart.PDF

Condition/Correction
No Start Condition
This usually occurs at first start-up of the day. After getting the engine started the first
time, the engine starts well for the rest of the day. The problem can occur again the next
outing. Areas with high humidity are more likely to experience this problem. Remove the
HVS distributor cap as soon as possible after experiencing the problem. Look for droplets
of moisture or condensation on the inside of the cap or on the rotor.
NOTE: Do not confuse white powder on distributor cap electrodes as moisture. Moisture
(droplets of water) has to be present under the cap.
If droplets of water are present inside the cap, order a new HVS distributor. Distributors in
Mercury Parts stock have a redesigned vent screen to allow better air circulation inside the cap to prevent the accumulation of moisture.
Engines with a higher S/N than the ending S/N listed above have the new HVS distributor.
Description Part Number
V6 HVS Distributor 888751A02
V8 HVS Distributor 884794A02

Hope this helps, Good luck.

I would put in a H/P old style HEI and call it a day, get the vacuum advance delete piece, the the wire pigtails and you are still about $100 run many of them work great...

That does help! Those look like much nicer units than the Mercruiser type that is a plastic housing and less expensive.

I did some more searching on eBay with similar key words and found this one for $40, what do you guys think? Is it the same thing as the Merc?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-CHEVY-VOR...281e84&vxp=mtr

fixx
 

that one is for a v6,,the v6 vortech has a non adjustable dist,,the 5.7 /6.2 ones are adjustable..best make sure you dead nuta on tdc when installing it..

Summit has some for under 200

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/du...make/chevrolet

when they brake on me i always use a J nut on the bottom and leave it alone..holds the cap on just fine,,,

Now that is damn brilliant! I think that is worth a shot for sure.

had a few Suburbans and Astro vans at work that broke a ear while changing the cap and I always used a J nut and never had a issue..

I went to Home Depot and couldn't find any J nuts deep enough to grab the bottom lip. Where did you get yours? In the mean time I strapped it down with three cable ties and it seems to be working well until I find a better solution. Not moving at all.

The problem now is that the engine will rev smoothly until about 3800 RPM, it will not rev past there and then throw an alarm on the way back to idle. Not going any further. I've heard an IAC on the way out will do that. Thoughts? I checked the pintle on the IAC and it moves freely.

Here's a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssobQB48e1U

If you're not in the water, in gear & under load then that reving the engine to only 3800 is perfectly normal. You're hitting mercruisers guardian mode designed for protecting the engine from you doing just that. Please, do yourself a favor, stop revving the engine in neutral.:eek:

You really shouldn't rev over 1800 rpm max. FYI, while on the engine flushing device (ear muffs) the recommended engine RPM is 1300 rpm.;)

Capt.
Same thing happened to me several years back. I used the zip tie method also.
Mine worked fine for years. If no misfire, I don't believe cap to be an issue
w/low rpm s. P.T.L. Rory

speaker J nuts work pretty good

It was in the water :)

if it was in neuyral,and in the water, it will still go into guardian( over rev )code,,,looks like you where still tied to the dock on your video,,, the shift sensor lets the computer knows it,s in gear and then will not allow the over rev code

Well then thanks for the potential good news! I'll get out there and see! Yes I was floating in dock.

yep,,in neutral rev limiter shuts down 3200-3500 rpm

Well that's news I like hearing. A reason to be half-way confident about getting out on the water is a good thing. Thanks for the help guys.

Is that just a Radio Shack item or where did you get yours? Got a picture of what I should be looking for?

Mechanic broke the screw in two on my 6.2 distributor. Not only charged me for a new distributor but after sitting on my boat for three weeks he had it air freighted for an extra $100.00. The plastic GM product is a very poor design in my opinion. Maybe some sort of locktight or lube between the plastic and the screw?

Got a good proper trial in yesterday. It ran really strong for about a 45 minute cruise. Lots of 5k RPM runs. When we turned around and started heading back I would get an occasional miss that the RPMs would from from 3500 RPM to 1500 and recover. Stopped for lunch at a restaurant on Travis and when I came off plane the engine died at idle with a beep immediately. On the way back, the miss became a more constant thing and when we went back to idle at the marina it died again. Only way it would restart is under throttle.

That said, it has a brand new IAC and currently the distributor cap is zip tied on. Sounds like potentially those cable ties are loosening up. I want to fix this right now that I have the cash. If I buy a new distributor assembly, is this something I can do myself if I mark off the rotor's position? Or do I need additional tools? Or should I say screw it and have someone do it?

Is this all symptomatic of distributor assembly being loose or do I have a couple issues?