NAPA Syn 15W-50 3.49/quart
 

Great buy .....wonder who makes it? seems there was a thread?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...510_0006411544

My NAPA guy said Valvoline make it for them. Same thing basically.

Looks like Valvoline/Ashland Oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...at&Number=5895

From what I've read in the past, Valvoline full synthetic was not the best for our applications. In reality a partial synthetic? Who was the oil guru guy here?

No matter what brand or type, make sure the zinc content is good. Just because it's synthetic doesn't mean it has the right amount or have right lubricants that our motors need. Marine grade oil doesn't compare to anything automotive unless it's stated High Mileage, even the High Mileage doesn't have the zinc like a marine oil.

You want the racing (not street legal) oil. Much higher zinc phospate.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/6

However, 3.49 a quart is a good price on a high quality synthetic.
I may grab some for my Avalanche.

Wannabe

I'm far from an expert but from what I have read the high zinc content is only needed on flat tappet engines.

This might be a stupid question, but what is a 'flat tappet' engine?

I may not have worded it properly but it is an engine that uses a flat tappet cam and lifters vs a roller cam and lifters. From what I have read, the zinc content is much more important when using the flat tappet.

VR-1 is what I use, seems to be very good oil.

I would not put this oil on the same level as a true PAO group 3 synthetic- its probably a group 4 "synthetic" by law only. I would just treat it as a slightly better than average dino oil.

That is true, however high zinc in an engine that doesn't have a flat tappet still helps! Zinc is bad for catalytic systems, which is why it has been nearly removed from "on road" oils. However, it is a superior additive. If you don't have cats on your boat I would suggest running a ZDDP additive, or a high zinc oil.

I run Valvoline 20W50 VR1 syn plus a Zddp additive


"Quaker State engineer Mark Ferner said zinc's extreme pressure qualities also aid in reducing piston ring-to-cylinder bore wear at BDC and TDC, where the rotating assembly sees an abrupt change in velocity and direction. Besides its extreme pressure protection, multifunctional zinc also functions as an antioxidant. That is, things exposed to heat and oxygen are subject to oxidation. In the case of a ferrous metal like iron, oxidation causes corrosion, which we see as rust. As applied to motor oil, Ferner said as the "heat accelerates oxygen, the oil starts to oxidize and thicken, changing into other molecular combinations. As the oil thickens, it forms deposits or varnish. In motor oil, the antioxidant additives first sacrifice themselves to prevent this oxidation from occurring, but if they get overwhelmed, the oil eventually turns into a hard, crusty sludge."

In its antioxidant role, zinc fights heat buildup in various hot spots like the piston-to-piston ring interface and the underside of the piston itself. Oil can accumulate in the honing crosshatch marks in the cylinder bore where it is exposed to combustion temperatures as high as 400-450 degrees F, a prime candidate for oxidation if not protected. Today's modern reduced-zinc passenger-car street oils contain other dedicated antioxidants to make up for the loss of zinc. "

Meets SN rating, therefore it probably DOES NOT have enought zinc in it for most boating applications.

Do you know this to be true...or are you just doing some "synthetic" thinking?

I just scored a bunch of the Valvoline VR-1 synthetic from O'Rileys for 3.79/qt.

You sure it is syn? The non syn is normally $6 and syn is $10, that would be a killer deal!

I agree I have been using Valvaline racing straight 40w oil along with a bottle of ZDDP for the last 13 years in my motors never a problem with the rotating asm and I run them very hard for extended periods!

Dont mean to highjack but where is everybody buying there ZDDP from

Yup. They are no longer going to carry the synthetic because they don't sell much of it so they are liquidating it...atleast here in my area. I bought all that they had and were able to get from other stores and distribution center.

dt21, you have your Groups mixed up. A true PAO synthetic is a Group IV and the "synthetics by law" are Group III.

NOBODY CAN PRODUCE A GROUP IV SYNTHETIC AND RETAIL IT FOR $4.00, not even Mobil and they are one of the worlds largest, if not the largest producers of PAO base stocks.

Ken

The napa synthetic is same as valvoline synpower other than the fact that they dye it a little different. This sale runs all month and is a great deal for autos and light trucks. I would not use it in a boat.

This is a good deal
 

Their price on VR1 is good too!

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...l#.UWh6izYo51s

Why yes it is..

also its time to do oil change on the 7.3l


http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...l#.UWh_AaKsiSo

Big spender! I have always used Rotella, or Delvac, in my Mack semi. Its a 12.0L turbo diesel with 32lbs of boost under full load. It has 31,000 hours on it, over 800k miles. oil pressure is still great, and no engine noises or excessive oil consumption. You can find it for around 11 bucks a gallon a wally world or sams club. It does hold almost 10 gallons, so I have to be frugal lol :offtopic:

longest smilie effect ever lol

Not to mention, you can use leftover Rotella in your sled!

i like the rotella oil for my diesel also and il bet it would be great for most marine engines.

Yes!!! I ran diesel oil in my sled and you ran diesel fuel in yours! :)

A fellow Hammond boater has run Rotella 15w40 in his boat engines for years. He had 700+ hours on his 502 mags when pulled them to upgrade power. Still running perfect when pulled

fixx
 

hell you may as well do a trans service as well,i use their mystic brand all the time and it works great..

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...l#.UWjnXqIsnTo

also their mystid gear lube is real slimy and i have used it in the past,,it clings to the gears like grease and cushions the gears when they ride against each other..


BTW dan,,dont recycle your oil in your fuel tank anymore.(i saw a video somewhere)..in the last year i have 2 friends that use to do that and now they both are proud owners of a new 6.5 and the other a new 7.3 diesel engines..their are tiny particles of metal in used oil and unless you have a rack of filters lined up for your fuel to go through it will eat at your cylinders..

Diesel oils zinc & phos levels have come way down also. Any motor oil SN has only 800 ppm of Zinc & phos inwhich is very low for any marine app. That is correct about ZDDP will kill at catalyst over time hence for the reduce levels.

Oil groups - group III is really not a syn oil, its more like a hydro cracked oil, Group IV oil based is a PAO and group V is ester based. Driven oil (ex joe Gibbs oil) is a MPAO inwhich is claimed to be a very good oil. Lake Speed Jr. heads up that program.

Mercruiser new recommended 20w -40 syn oil for their catalyst motors also has reduce levels of ZDDP compared to their orignal 25 w 40. In the marine world there is alot of things that will ruin the catalyst.

Run the boat out of gas and you will burn a hole straight thru the catalyst sub strake also certain gasket adhesives will hurt them, also backfires can burn a hole thru them, worn spark plugs over time will the hurt the catalyst and any water reversion will kill the cat on the spot among other things. FYI.