So over the VST system. Need help on removal!
 

So I need to get rid of this failure of a system and get something better on my stock 502 efi. I am looking at the aeromotive site and they have the following diagram:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...r/Untitled.png

Now do you fuel gurus feel that I should leave the low pressure pump, pipe this one inline and run it to the rail? Or would I be better off to remove everything and just install this as low as possible in the bilge?

Any other thoughts on getting rid of the VST system would also be appreciated. Not running any big power just staying stock.

Thanks in advance!

I would keep the low pressure pump, mounting it as low as possible. Plumb the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Run the return line to your tank-DONE!

Bump, as I'd like to know as well.

Pretty Please?

Me too

Bump-

Talked to two of my neighbors, both have A1000's, one runs a lift pump and one does not. I'll call Aeromotive on Monday and see just how much suction those things will take.

Also, these fittings are perfect for grafting a new pump onto your existing fuel system-
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...077b/overview/

Cut the hard line where you need to and voila.

Have you thought about converting to a cool fuel mpi system? I would think it would be less expensive. Randy

I just did mine last year. I removed the hole system. Both pumps. Mount the A1000 low in the Bilge. Take the Check valves out of the tank pickup. I am running the factory fuel pressure regulator so I would not have to modify the fuel rail. Also you will need to run the fuel returns to the tank. I have not had an issue with vapor lock since.

Here's what I'm doing, we'll see how it works.

I kept the diaphragm pump as a lift pump to feed the Aeromotive. I plan to install the recommended 40 micron filter upstream of the Aero pump- with a lift pump I'm not worried about pressure drop. From the Aero I'll go into the fuel rail. I'm going to remove the factory reg and block off the port. After the fuel exits the rail it'll hit an Aeromotive regulator and then dump to the tank piping.

Kind of a bastardized setup, but I've got a little experience with moving hydrocarbons and the numbers say it'll work. All plumbing will be done in -6 AN or 5/16 fuel line.

Just wish Aeromotive would offer an AN type outlet for their 11109 pump.

Hope this helps. Here is my setup. Two A1000 (down in the bilge) that pull through the big Napa fuel filters with bolt on NAPA mounts to the stringer (down even deeper but still accessible with the seat out in arms reach) and the 13101 regulators (up top) all plumbed in -8. The returns were -6, two equal length into one -8 back to the tank. The A1000's are about 12 inches from the keel and 4 feet from the pickup and level with the pickup/top of tank. I added a fuel pressure gauge to the regulator for quick checks. I didnt set my A/F with them but at least I can check it for consistency every so often. I validated the fuel pressure all the way to 5800 rpm with Innovate Motorsports A/F meter and never skipped a beat. They are modified 496's and run at 44PSI.

You shouldnt need a lift pump but... who knows. Cut the stock regulators off the fuel rail and get AN fittings welded on. For $159 each it isnt worth messing with the stock regulator, just buy Aeromotive 13101's and be done with it. They are more consistant, more adjustable and god forbid that tiny little diaphragm in the stock one doesnt like the A1000 and you are screwed.

Why does everyone run the A1000? That's what I was prepared to use but the Aeromotive website steered me away from it and toward the 11109. Granted this doesn't leave me room for expansion, but I'm shooting for reliability today.

I run A1000 mounted right above the tank, pre & after filters, # 8 feed line, # 6 return, their regulator, 700+ procharged 509 EFI, no lift pump, the std A1000 is not CC approved...

The A1000 (PN 11101) has the AN threads - the marine version is the 11108 (CC approved) only comes with the ORB threads...but Aeromotive has the conversion fittings as well to compensate for this.

The 11108 is also $70 more than the std. A1000 and the marine regulators are also about $50 more for a carb application

So is there any difference between the A1000 and the 11108 other than the CG approval and the black anodizing? The inlets of both bumps use the ORB-10 inlet and outlets

Finally got this project going. I will document it and post up as the install goes. Just waiting for the plumbing fittings to come in.

I'll be watching, thanks!

From what i hear, efi pumps suck when they have to suck fuel. That is why virtually all automakers put them in the tank. Taking out the anti-siphon valve in pick up is considered by many to be a bad idea. Running mech pump for lift and leaving anti-siphon in place is a safer bet.

Here is the final result
 

First thing was to figure out how to cap the regulator at the end of the fuel rail. Being a plumber came in handy. I pulled the brass nipple out, took the O-rings off, heated it up and soldered a "plug" into the opening. Worked perfect.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...5F1686321E.jpg

Now that that was done I ordered the $$$$ parts.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...E7A868BC7D.jpg

Pulled and blocked the mechanical

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...40F5689E53.jpg

Capped the return just in case my solder job didn't work ha.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...5603D9D2E5.jpg

Installed the pump down low in the bilge pulling off the filter on the engine and post filtered with the aero filter.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...129CE08BE7.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...C5D9E99296.jpg

Relay with the power supplied from the existing vst pump harness.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...C6654056EE.jpg

Regulator on the transom with return to tank already run when I was vapor locking.... Hooked up to the fuel rail supply. Had to get creative to adapt onto the goofy flare fitting merc used.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...6E64CF1174.jpg

Routing from the pump to the regulator over the engine.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...B7380E7562.jpg

Quick run to hoover dam since I had a flat on the trailer that I saw as we were putting the boat in the water.... Always something..... But this is the first time the boat has ever ran this amazing.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...4780B1665F.jpg

Let me know if you guys have any questions. More than happy to answer them. Total time to perform this was about 12 hours and 2 36 packs of beer.

Did you use the return line ? How come you left the return line in a capped that ? I understand you returned back to the gas tank. That's why I am asking about the stock set up return line.

No the return comes off the aero regulator now eliminating the need for a return from the rail. Soldering and capping the line was kind of redundant but I just did it for good practice.

Ok I thought you met u solder and capped it off completely. That's why I had to ask to make sure we were on the same page. I fully understand it. I just over thought what you were saying about the cap & soldering it.

I like it!

You still have a chance of the fuel in the dead headed fuel rail to vapor lock.
I would have just used the stock return line and go to the regulator then return that back to the tank.Or,just return the stock return line to the tank.no need for the other regulator unless you were gonna up the HP and line size thru out the fuel system.

The biggest problem is that I could not figure out a way to straight pipe the top of the fuel rail to the bottom or return side since it is a goofy 90 degree bend where the current regulator sits but now that you mention this I could pipe it out the relief fitting on the front of the rail and send it back to the regulator if I experience issues. Will update once I run the boat in 120 degree weather here in a couple months. Hoping it doesn't happen.

The Ace, question
 

Do you have a list of what fittings you use to connect to the stock mercruiser lines? Came across your post. My VST is failed and looking to repeat what you did and keep it simple.