BBC starter bolts
 

are starter bolts anything special or can grade 5 or 8 hardware bolts be used? For a 454.

Bolts are special if using stock type starters
Aftermarket tilton ect use grade (8)

Are You bolting to a bell housing or the block?

I'm assuming a 97 donzi. Don't have a trans
Get out of this thread trouble maker.

The bolts have an area that is knurled where the starter meets the block. The block is counterbored so this area fits tight. Takes the load off the threads and keeps the starter where it belongs. I learned the hard way back in the 60's!

So - answer is use the correct starter bolts.

Get them at Autozone or O'Reillys in the help section they usually have them in stock

Merc says they are 3/8-16 x 4.33 Called napa and the closest size they have are 4 5/8....are the 4 5/8 going to be too long?

you can stack washers under the heads to correct length, but get the right bolts...

Get the right bolts, I almost wasted my flywheel with the wrong bolts.

Ridiculous 10 posts about starter bolts ??
Just buy fact mercruiser bolts with the 1/2 hex and be done

I just pulled My starter and measured the bolts,they are 4 5/16 with a 9/16 head,here is a pic referring to what bam said about the knurled part setting into the recessed area of the mounting holes,hope this helps.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8...24cd0989_z.jpg

Nice! Thank you

ordered these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...make/chevrolet

if they don't look like what is shown in your pics then I will go with stock merc. ARP makes all the best fasteners so hopefully I wont be going through this again.

Now for the hard part....getting the damn broken bolts out :poopoo:

Well,the broken bolts may be the result of another problem,why did they break?

loose, maybe a backfire, timing, and to answer this guys question. even if it takes 20 times he asked a question he got answers thats what this area is for TO HELP EACH OTHER OUT,

I've been down this same road...get the correct bolts and and they make a bracket to hold the front of the starter which will take some of the load off the back of the starter. There is tons of torque on this area when cranking.

As afar as removing the bolts, lay across the motor looking down/upside down and drill out the bolts using an angle air drill. Drill them out enough to insert an easy out or bolt remover. Use a mirror to look into the drill area to ck your work drilling as straight as possible. The broken bolt should come out easy w/no tension on it. Clean the threads w/a tap if you think you might have damaged them. Yes get new bolts and the starter bracket. I made my own bracket. The process is a pita but I know it can be done in about an hour.

If He is going to do the repair in the Boat,I would recommend drilling it out with a reverse drill bit,it makes quick work of broken bolts.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...47008514,d.dmg

Wow, didn't realized they made those. Are they like the left handed cigs? sorry for the highjack....lol.
I can't tell you what a frustrating pita the removal process is but take your time in drilling and they will come out. Way easier than engine removal. Might also want to use some loctite on the new bolts so they won't back out.

update...the ARP bolts are a no go....shoulder location is wrong.

one bolt came right out with a left hand bit. the other is being a PITA. drilled all the way through and have been spraying a mix of ATF and acetone in the hole trying to get it to free up. No luck so far. The bolt is broke off with the shoulder sticking out or the block about a 1/8" or so. Going to keep laying the penetrating oil to it and hope for the best. Might try some heat to the block also.

Also considering welding a nut to the bolt if all else fails.

Get a good easy out kit, snap-on/craftsman and tap it in the hole drilled using a wrench to back it out. Since the starter is off there s/b no tension on the threads.

I figured it would come out easy too...but no dice so far. Tried an extractor but scared to break it....been being patient with the penetrating oil.

If bolt is being a total pita.It may make sense to just pull motor and do it,before ruining block.Not hard to pull most boat motors .JMO

Possibly try drilling the hole 1-2 sizes larger but still within the thread size so you don't damage them. You s/b able to then insert the easy out further since most are tapered. I'd work every angle I could think of before even considering pulling the motor.

This thread started on 5-14.Here we are almost two weeks later ,working upside down trying not to pull the motor .How much time has been wasted trying not to pull motor .Good luck with whatever you decide to do

motor coming out today. Bolt must have bottomed out and still has tension. Unfortunately when I drilled it, I did not get the hole exactly centered. Gonna make this job tough. I'm not sure what to do now. Gonna be tough to re-center the hole now. thinking about welding a nut to the bolt, but if it doesnt work I will have the previously drilled hole filled full of tough to drill filler metal. Also worried that with a hole in the bolt that is close to the threads, that it might weld the bolt threads and block threads together.

However you go about getting it out it will be a lot easier looking down on it instead of trying to drill a centered hole upside down ,in a mirror.Not to be a bummer ,but if you had pulled motor to began with, the hole would probably be center of broken bolt and stepping up in bit size would be a possibility and bolt would be out .This thread may be a wakeup call for anyone else trying to work on their head just to not have to pull motor
At this point i think getting someone that is skilled at welding to weld a nut on may be best chance of success....Providing there is enough there to weld to.
If nothing else you can now take motor to qualified machine shop and they can see what they are working with .
just my opinion
Good luck .I hope it all works out

I understand ur frustration.....this task is tough but it can be done, I've done it 2x, once on my boat and prior to on another friends boat. Wouldn't have suggested it if I didn't think it was possible. If in fact the bolt has bottomed out, yes it wil make it tough but regular starter bolts aren't going to bottom out mounting a starter into the block. Go back w/grade 8 bolts and youll have less likely the chance of them breaking. Sorry this route wasn't helpful. Good luck.

Make yourself a drill guide out of a block of steel with two holes that are on center with your starter. one hole should be a tight clearance for the bolt usually the same size drill will work with about .0015" clearance. The second hole should be your tap drill size. Bolt it on, line it up, make sure it's clamped tightly, it will probably require a second clamp, and drill out the old bolt. I used to do this all the time when I did a stint as a tool maker.

If you are looking at it on an engine stand now, use a hammer and punch to back the bolt out. You punch around the circumference ccw. The hammer blow tends to get things moving. As far as what causes broken starter bolts, my first though is always hydrolock.

Good idea! fortunately I didnt have to go that far. Pulled the motor and mig welded a nut to the bolt...came right out. Really depressing that the motor had to be pulled to remove a dammn bolt. On the plus side, I did a bunch of service work while it was out. Changed plugs, installed the oil drain hose that I was planning on doing soon, got the bilge nice and clean, and treated some corrosion on the motor. Just got back from an overnight trip, all is well. Thanks for all the replies guys. Happy boating!

Glad it worked out....get back on the water