Cutting EMI ss long risers
 

Can I cut the tail pipe on a EMi riser, It is the ss low riser with a long tailpipe. The riser is too close to the transom and I need to shorten it , to add hose and s bends to get where I need to be.
Before any one says just buy different risers, there is no funds for that. this is what I have and I need to make this work. unless someone has a different one to trade.
I am sure they can be cut, I am just unsure how short they can the cut ,before getting into the water jacket.

Here is my issue.

http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forum...6&d=1369197767


Interference with the power steering and too close to transom to make bends with hose and s bends.


http://www.performanceboats.com/atta...766846&thumb=1

http://www.performanceboats.com/atta...766882&thumb=1

This is what I need to do.

http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forum...8&d=1369198394

This is essentially what I have, just with a longer tail pipe.

http://www.eddiemarine.com/xl/emi-112.jpg

I don't need to be quite that short.
If I cut them and remove the outer pipe, and leave the inside sleeve a little longer, would it be necessary to have the flare at the end of the inner sleeve, or could it just be straight?

I did that with a set. Once you cut the outer pipe it will slide right off of the inner tube. The end of the inner tube is flared but not welded to the outer. You can cut the inner where you want then tack the flare to the end. The flare has I think 4 holes to let water escape & probably should be there to hold some water in the riser. I did not do that with mine but got lucky with no reversion, however the risers would run hotter. Hope that helps you out. I remember commenting on your boat a while back concerning the exhaust running into the steering I think you were asking about wedges to move the tails. Let us know what you end up doing. Randy

I had thought of the wedge, but it would have to be one hell of a thick wedge in the front to get enough to get below the steering and then I think they will still be too close to the transom to connect any s bends.

Too bad you don't have hydraulic steering, you could go through right where your at & all you would have to do is move some wiring. I found the wedge plates hard to get sealed I think I cut mine about where your tape is at the end of the block so I could use the captains call that was on the boat originally. Randy

I cut a set of trs tails to fit my Bravos and existing thru hull tips. I made 2 45* cuts and twisted the pipes to get the angles I wanted. Marked the pipes then had them welded back together. The inner pipe I flaired out at the first cut to restrict the water enough to not have hot spots.
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Call Chris at EMI and get a ball park figure. They have made custom risers for me and they are easy to work with. I asked him about cutting and I was told the piece of metal at the end is called a dam, just like it name says to keep the water from flowing out in one spot creating hot spots.
You would be surprised, I don't think it would be that expensive to have them cut it and weld it.

That dam is very important. I bought a used set of risers that had been extended. No dam at the end of the pipe and I would burn though a exhaust hose in minutes under 3000 rpm. Not enough cooling without the dam on the end.