489 budget build
 

last weekend I had the wonderful experience of seeing what a dropped valve can do to a engine :(. anyways I am building my 489 stroker engine a little sooner than I had expected now. here is a list of what i am putting together. the block is in the machine shop already for cleaning, boring, cam bearings and all of that fun stuff. right now i intend to run my old intake and a holley 800 from hp500 but i have a holley MPI complete efi setup sitting here that i am debating getting on here also. the intake/carb/efi is something i can switch to whatever i need later. i was going to use the probe pistons but the machine shop didn't seem to thrilled with them and i have read mixed reviews, the SRPs seemed more popular on this site. does anyone see anything that is not going to work or i could do better for a little more cash. please note that i posted this in do it yourself, boating on a budget, i do understand that there are allot of better parts out there and i know that with any engine build the sky is the limit on what you want to spend on it so please keep that in mind. i am working with what i have in front of me and on a reasonable budget. i am not trying to be the fastest guy on the water, i just want to get back out there and have fun :) if anyone has had experience with the holley commander 950 MPI setup i would love to hear what you think of it and how hard it was to tune.

what i have currently
454 gen VI block, virgin block being taken to 30 over
Crane 731 cam and matching valve train to match it from previous motor
edelbrock 6155 heads with Inconel exhaust valves
Gil hp500 style exhaust
thunderbolt ignition
blaster 2 coil
Crane hi-6m box
Scat H beam rods 6.385
18" oil cooler on oil/stock on steering
sandwich style oil thermostat
holley blue pump/regulator
-8 fuel lines
edelbrock air gap dual plane intake
hp500 carb
k&n



here is what i plan to buy as of right now
Scat 9000 4.25 crank (1 piece rear main)
SRP 142979 flat top forged piston (puts me at 9.14/1 if i recall correctly

what i need to choose
oil pump
rings
bearings
head gaskets

Oil pump melling standard volume with blue spring 60#
Rings ...the ones that you can get from srp with there pistons.
bearings Clevite /federal mogul hp chamfered for crank
head gaskets mercruiser
My Opinion

what does everyone think of king bearings?

call this guy for the gaskets,,he makes them for merc..262-677-4691..make sure he internally ballances the rotating assy,,you will need a 396/427 ballancer and the flywheel will need the counter weight macgined off and zero ballanced as well.

you also want to use plasma moly rings,,

i forgot to mention it was getting balanced. from what i have read i can reuse my existing flywheel and balancer. the previous engine was a L29 gen vi 454

I haven't run the king bearings yet but there in my motors on the stands. On paper they sound great, but last few sets of clevite h series coated bearings have come out looking damn good

spend the extra money on a forged crankshaftm,,its only 800 bucks,,then the assy will need to be internally ballanced ,,the 9000 series crankshafts still hace soft cast steel metan and not forged....you will be better off down the road ...or water lol..

http://www.competitionproducts.com/S...nfo/SCA445425/

i have done allot of research on the scat 9000 and i think i will be ok. i was told on another thread by a engine company on this site that i will be fine. i have no intentions of boost or i would go forged

In my 496 stroker I used,
Scat 9000 Crank 4.25, 496 Stroker
Scat 26385716 - 6.385 in. Connecting Rods - Floating Pins -I Beam Forged 4340 steel
Probe 496 Dome Top +18.0cc, .060 - SRS - PHV Series Piston Set
Clevite 77 Cam Bearings
Federal-Mogal 4400 M20 Main Bearings
King Engine Rod Bearings CR849HP
Mahle - 4.310 Plasma Moly Coated Piston Rings

Good results for a couple years now.

i think i calculated my compression wrong. my heads are 118cc, i was using 110cc so now i am looking back at the probe pistons but in a dome, with a .038 head gasket i would be at 9.76:1 with a probe P4963F-030

so no issues with the probes?

what is better on the SRS piston #PROBE 13729-030 compared to the one i listed above?

has anyone used autotec pistons? i guess they are made by the former owner of JE and what i am reading online everyone is impressed with them. the price is right where i need it to be so its a option as of now. time for more research

i am starting a new thread on the autotecs, i am curious

I come from a drag racing back ground and was going to build the engine that is in my boat. Being that I knew nothing about boats, before I ordered a stroker kit and started to assemble parts(which I decided to wait) I called SCAT technical dept and I spoke with 2 or 3 different guys up there back and forth trying to figure out best combo. Everyone of them said that a cast crank will not handle the stress properly. from drag racing side of things I have seen them last and seen them break. If your going to invest 2500-3k in your bottom end, just my opinion build it as you only want to do it once. spend the extra coin and get a forged crank.. BTW you can order directly from scat and skip all the middle men... just my $.02

ok all bull**** aside,,he has had problems with the stroker in his nove,,he had to replace the craon or bearings or i know at least the bearings(sorry mark) like mentioned if your not going to take out advise and spend a little more money on a forged crankshaft then you are only going to get respons's fron under educated builders..your throwing almost 10.1 compression at the crank and it wont last long at 3500 rpms..the 330 hp has cast internals and thats why their only 330 hp..you can bump those up to 375-400 and they will last for a whyle but with the combonation your seeking you going to be at 500+ hp at a lower rpm then the 330 hp 454 engine and remember theirs no nitrated hardening on that cast steel crankshaft..its onlt 400 bucks plus the ballancing and harmonic and machine work on the flywheel so roughly 800 bucks more to have a stout bottom end ...

Fixx is right, I spun a couple bearings and totally f_ed up a very nice motor with the 1st build. When I had the crank turned to clean it up the machinist told me that he had to order a different rod bearing then what we talked about before (stockish). A standard bearing was not right for the crank and a beveled bearing was needed because of the shoulder of the crank will chew up a standard bearing. Got the right bearing (that’s how I ended up with the King bearings) and have had no issues since 2011.

currently building my 489 stroker after a failed oil pump, used scat cast crank, rods and mahle pistons, all clevite bearings as my machinist who's been in business for 50+ years swears by them. have a genVI block, which is a virgin block with 820 hard hours on her, sadly she spun almost every bearing in her in a matter of seconds, bent the crank, scored the block so even though its the first time being worked, if it spins another main bearing the block will be junk.