Understood.

Yes I put a new pump assembly at beginning of each season. This one has 1 weekend on it. The first day of this season had same condition as last day of last season.

So do you know what the fuel cooler looks like on the inside?

Sorry, I can't help with that one. Shoot a PM to BillR on here. He's very familiar with those motors.

Thanks - I will do that.

I've been chasing low pressure for a few years now. I changed my through hull fittings....again!...and it has finally come up a little. I just made another change that I'll find out about today and will report back. The change; the new balls in the T-stat housing (last years try) hung loose. Now I've replaced the springs with the factory parts and the balls are tight on the housing.

Are you sure that you don't just have an obstruction or kink in the water pressure guage line????

Pull the line out of the block. The lines in the lower block drains get blocked very easily.

The springs worked. I picked up 8+PSI

Just remove the springs and the check ball all together. As long as you have a solid close end where you attach the garden hose, they are not needed. The checkball/springs can get gummed up with silt, weeds, and crap. All you need is an open Tee into the sea water side.

The fuel cooler, which I have had off many times is pretty much wide open. The return line runs down the back side, the cooler has an inductive plate to cool the fuel and pump, they are not connected as one. Very simple, and it wont even stop impeller pieces, mine always make it up to the oil cooler which I just remove the end cap to clear.


Have you tried switching the lines on the back of the gauges to see if it is a gauge problem? I also agree with cleaning the lines and ports, they clog easy. Hit them with air at the gauge, then remove from block and drain block.

I'm talking about the springs and balls in the tstat housing that feed the upper exhaust.

I don't have springs/balls in my thermostat housing - should I have them??