Winterizing 496 HO Mag
#22
It is a good idea to change your oil and oil filters just prior to running the engine for the fogging procedure. You don't want the old dirty oil sitting in your engines all winter and having fresh oil in during the fogging process will coat the internal parts with the fresh oil.
I also run 1 quart of Lucas Oil Treatment as a part of my oil change.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 10-18-2013 at 12:19 PM.
#23
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and I run Lucas gas treatment/injector cleaner in gas all of the time and run stabil in the gas all of the time. we up here have some rare stations with 91 octane pure gasoline with no ethanol in it that I use when im in the area. my engines have the same spin on filters like oil filters. of course get all this going, engines warmed up then do the antifreeze thing. thanks much. I will wait until spring to place the new impellers in the sea pumps.
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......also......does anyone here duct tape there muffs to the outdrive so the pink doesn't run out or pumps suck air. I have a couple of sets of muffs and they do not seal well enough to not allow the pink to run gallons down the driveway not to mention the air leaking.
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you of course use the air pump and drain all water from the system prior to doing the antifreeze thing correct? run it to warm engine/thermostat, drain water using the air pump on my closed loop 496, then connect muffs with pink, start and fill system with pink, done. of course in there is the 2-stroke oil thing as well.
#26
No thermostat in the sea-water side of the 496HO. You do not have to worry about warming it up for a thermostat to open.
I use the airpump to drain my engines starting in October until whenever I winterize.
When it comes time to drain the water out of the engines for winterization; I'll use the air pump; and then open up all the freeze plugs. I want as much water out as possible so as not to dilute the antifreeze.
Muffs are damn near useless in my opinion. I HATE using them. The best solution is a fresh water flush connection right into the SWP or sea strainer in the bilge. Nothing blows more than burning up your impeller while you are trying to winterize, and having to start all over again. There are a couple different types of muffs. Many folks like the this kind that slip through the drive and are held on my a friction clip:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]510232[/ATTACH]
If you have a DWP drive, yes, you would want to tape off the lower pickup when using muffs.
I use the airpump to drain my engines starting in October until whenever I winterize.
When it comes time to drain the water out of the engines for winterization; I'll use the air pump; and then open up all the freeze plugs. I want as much water out as possible so as not to dilute the antifreeze.
Muffs are damn near useless in my opinion. I HATE using them. The best solution is a fresh water flush connection right into the SWP or sea strainer in the bilge. Nothing blows more than burning up your impeller while you are trying to winterize, and having to start all over again. There are a couple different types of muffs. Many folks like the this kind that slip through the drive and are held on my a friction clip:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]510232[/ATTACH]
If you have a DWP drive, yes, you would want to tape off the lower pickup when using muffs.
#27
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Post 17 is the gen III cool fuel system. pull hoses off or the bolt & bracket that holds them to the back side of the cool fuel cell to drain water - again if boat is on the trailer raise the bow to help drain it better.
Also the basket inside that fuel cell # 28 needs to make sure there is no water holding inside. (that is per say your fuel / water separator ),
next that filter pad # 21 is the most important filter in the mix. Its a 10 micron fuel filter and becomes very restricted over time. Change it min. once a year. 496's hate to run lean.
Also the basket inside that fuel cell # 28 needs to make sure there is no water holding inside. (that is per say your fuel / water separator ),
next that filter pad # 21 is the most important filter in the mix. Its a 10 micron fuel filter and becomes very restricted over time. Change it min. once a year. 496's hate to run lean.
Last edited by BUP; 10-18-2013 at 02:41 PM.
#28
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I just bought those Quicksilver muffs. They still leak but at least they stay in position. I f-ing hate using muffs but don't have time to install a freshwater flush. I think as long as you run for a few minutes after you see the pink stuff coming out you should flush out all the water that's in the system. Starting dry with only a gravity feed makes me nervous
#30
It's about a 30 minute job or less, depending on how well you can access the lower forward starboard side of your engine. Anyone with a full set of socket/ratchet tools can do it.
Look up your serial number on Mercruiserparts.com to see exactly how your engine is put together.
This is a different motor than you have, but almost all of the motions are identical:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-impellor.html
Decent video here, but it's MUCH easier to remove the whole pulley/pump and replace the impeller on the bench.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxLfF2abE_o
Use a little bit of Dawn or other soap, or a non-oil based lubricant to help you ease in the new impeller. You want to lean all of the veins in the proper direction when you re-install, so pay attention to how it looks when it comes out. Old mechanic's trick is to wrap a zip-tie around the impeller and since it down to lean the veins the way you want them. Insert the impeller 1/2 way, and then cut the zip-tie, then tap impeller the rest of the way in. Do a search here on OSO. There are a lot of posts with similar information.
Look up your serial number on Mercruiserparts.com to see exactly how your engine is put together.
This is a different motor than you have, but almost all of the motions are identical:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-impellor.html
Decent video here, but it's MUCH easier to remove the whole pulley/pump and replace the impeller on the bench.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxLfF2abE_o
Use a little bit of Dawn or other soap, or a non-oil based lubricant to help you ease in the new impeller. You want to lean all of the veins in the proper direction when you re-install, so pay attention to how it looks when it comes out. Old mechanic's trick is to wrap a zip-tie around the impeller and since it down to lean the veins the way you want them. Insert the impeller 1/2 way, and then cut the zip-tie, then tap impeller the rest of the way in. Do a search here on OSO. There are a lot of posts with similar information.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 10-20-2013 at 07:46 AM.