-50* test 1..2..3..
 

Ive been told the Menards special isn`t good enough so I left this out last night.... While there is no expansion its isn`t exactly liquid either
I wonder if that means it won`t completely freeze till -50* ?
It was a windchill of -31* last night.


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...66647267-4.jpg


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s10...39349627-4.jpg

the key is no expansion.yes it will get slushy,but that is not what breaks blocks,coolers or manifolds.i have been useing that pink stuff for years and never had a problem,guess what,you wont have a problen either.

From what I understand it won't expand or freeze solid until -50. Windchill is a representation of how quickly BTU's are removed from an object. Once that object reaches ambient it won't get any colder.

You have to actually read the label....most say "-50* burst temp" or something to that nature....and then most times they are talking about copper pipe....so in an engine it shouldn't have any problems....it "may" pop freeze plugs though....and plastic fittings in the cooling lines would probably be toast....rubber hose...anyone's guess...

I heard the same thing... I also was planning on saving a gallon to do the same test up here. Only I used all I bought :(.

Thank you for the test, i feel confident the one engine we have pink juice pumped full of is in covered "cold storage" building. Should be good to go.

Side note: Dam that was a brutal cold snap we just went threw!!!!, Snowmobile loved it tho! Operator only like it for the first 15 mins... LOL!

I heard same thing.....I have been having a hard time sleeping..... Thx :coolcowboy:

I've put cups of this stuff in the freezer before. It freezes to a hard slush but does not expand.

I've had it in my motors at -20 in years past with no issues.

I will say that with using this stuff, you really need to drain everything, blocks, coolers, strainers, exhaust, etc. A month or so ago I was planning to pull my engines out at Icdedppls house. But, the hoist assembly wasn't ready just yet, and they were calling for lows in the 20s at night. So, I hooked up the antifreeze (pink) bucket, and started the engines, sucking and pumping it through until the exhaust starting to look pink. (about 5 gallons per engine). We removed the engines a week later, and they were sitting in his garage. Decided to drain the blocks. Took a sample of the mixture that was in the blocks, and put it outside. It was frozen pretty solid the other day with temps in the teens. Due to it mixing with water.

Now, if you weren't gonna drain everything, Id probably want to use straight pure automotive antifreeze that is meant to be diluted.

Later that day it was back to a liquid pretty quick.
My 2nd observation... the bottle in the garage was still mostly liquid.

Yes, you have to drain everything. Any dillution with water will yield ugly results. I drain, run the pink through, and drain again. I also ran a test years ago on running straight automotive antifreeze through a thoroughly warmed up, but not drained 5.7L small block. Sucked 5 gallons of Prestone in through the drive and then took samples out of each side of the engine block. One side tested out to -10 and the other -7. The recirculation in the block keeps enough water in it that even straight automotive antifreeze won't keep you safe if you don't drain first.

I did this same test a few years back and almost crapped myself. Now I actually run this stuff through the system (mainly for raw water pumps), remove hoses at lowest point, drain blocks (leave out petcocks till spring) and pour in the pick stuff through thermostat housing and highest point of hoses (exhaust, water pump and coolers) till pink comes out block exhaust etc or whatever. Takes frick'in forever but it's the only way I can sleep. My main issue I have with this theory is corrosion control. Leaving the blocks dry leaves opportunity for oxidation. Lastly, i have a programmable thermostat with 2- trouble lights in the engine area set at 50*f. I know way over kill.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lux-WIN100-H...item51b5cd1051

You could always just buy the -100 stuff. They sell it at most marine/rv places near me and my local Walmart as well for about $3.00 a gallon. I use it to winterize all the pipes in the summer place, the boat, and my work shop. Zero issues and it gets pretty cold here.

Back to freaking out!!

oh $hit man. Might be a good time to go pull your block drains and see what comes out. If nothing, it could be a block of ice in there. :eekdrop:

I ran alot of the pink threw....2 times a side....... Your right I'm going this weekend

That's why you drain the blocks & associated before you put the AF in; OR, you run at least 6-8 gallons through, not just 5.

I ran 8 or so.... I made sure the stuff was very pink coming out

Dilution is exactly why I only drain, fill, drain.
I looked up the effects of dilution a while back. Don't remember the exact numbers but it is surprising how fast the freezing point rises with each 10% dilution. Something on the order of 12 deg / 10%.
That means if you don't drain first, there is a good chance you could freeze a block if just running til pink "comes out". Most of the time boaters are spared damage because it does not get super cold LONG ENOUGH to really chill the whole block for most of the country. (much like the old adage 24 deg for 24 hours before risk of water freezing in the block)

IF the block is drained after adding AF, I am not concerned with corrosion. Whatever liquid that is left is still an anti-corrosion solution so nothing should not be at risk. Also, corrosion happens much slower in cold conditions than at hot like engine operating temps.

For those with major winterize OCD, Merc and others also offer -200, pure AF.