hmm.. I didnt do all at 1 time, but prob about 6-8 hours total?

Pulled drives and helmets 1 day (2 hours) then gathered parts and JR kit.
Doing kit was probably the longest part. I started yesterday and forgot bellows adhesive so I had so stop after I couldnt find around town. Putting back together went quick.

Would have been less if I was closer to my shed, and since I spread over 3 days, pulling tools out each time and picking them back up.

Your window looks great...a lot better than mine did. I used a black RTV silicone on the plate to seal it up on the drive and spread it out with my finger as J&R suggested and had no issues. The only thing I did differently from what J&R said and sent was the 1/4-20 socket head cap screws...I didnt use them. I just didnt feel warm and fuzzy screwing a 1/4 stainless steel bolt into aluminum with only about 1/2 inch of depth. I used 1/4-20 stainless steel studs with a small does of blue loc-tite on the threads, then installed the plate and held in it place with 1/4-20 lock nuts. You did a good job from what I see in the pic. You might notice the steering being just a tad stiffer than it was before, but no biggie.

thanks, I was trying to watch how tight I tightened the pin (raising it up), the P was good, but the S was too tight so I ended up loosening the steering again and backing off the nut a hair to "hopefully" not be too tight!
Yes the studs sucked! Since your only going in 7/16" in, my tap was barely making any threads, so I drilled them a lil deeper, 6 worked, I had to go get longer studs for 2 since they wouldnt bite.
I also used the black gasket stuff, should be good, now I just have to order some new mercury decals on go on the drives to look somewhat stock.

But I am happy with the job, VERY tight than it was before. All I have to do now is readjust my elec. trim gauges. I had them dialed in pretty good.

A friend offered to let me use a drive jack, but my alum swim platform works pretty good with a small cambuckle strap... They went right in...

Wife made me a pair of decals to match what was under the plates!!


[ATTACH=CONFIG]535906[/ATTACH]

Question
 

I have the same issue I have the motor pulled and the pin removed by a local marine repair shop. If my pin is corroded and the housing is also corroded will a new pin and bushing set keep it from leaking again or will I need to replace the outer housing?

Get the stainless steel pin along with the bushings and the new seal and you will be good. Dont get the Mercruiser pin as it is carbon steel. They should know better and use stainless, but they dont care. The aftermarket stainless is the way to go.

How do you diagnose a bad swivel pin?

play or wobble in the gimble or tiller is the first sign....

I would dual ram full hydraulic steering. Can you give me advice on how I would check this?

You can lift up on the drive, mine had a little play there, but mainly on the steering arm. It was also the caus of my leak, I stuck a hose in the stern steering arm access hole and turned the water on. It leaked out the drive... found my culprit, if it could come out, it could go in. Seal was bad.

If you have cable steering and the housing was worn, you may need a new one. Mine wasnt actually too bad, so when I put back together, the steering was tight! You can have the housing fixed as well. They weld it back and reshape the square hole.

Hey I'm a new member and thought I could contribute to this thread. I have a 1992 Scarab 21 Excel that had a water leak. Like some other people in here I replaced a bunch of things before accepting the fact it was my swivel shaft seal. If you put your hand in the tiller arm area and it's wet... that's your problem. I've come to understand this is an issue with ever single bravo drive on our type of boats. Not only is the OEM shaft carbon steel which corrodes and destroys the seal, but our type of boats sit low in the water which both causes the corrosion and the subsequent leak. Here are a few tips I came up with after making the repair...

-use better drill bits than are supplied with the J&R kit. you don't want to break one.
-there is a cotter pin on the lower swivel pin that keeps it in place. This was a nightmare for me. If it's tough, get out the saw and just cut the swivel pin, then you can drill out the cotter pin and save a lot of time.
-if your upper swivel pin is rust-welded into the gimbal ring like mine, it will seem impossible to remove. Get a threaded rod and thread into the bottom of the swivel shaft. Then use a couple metal plates with a hole to put over the threaded rod, and use a nut/washer to slowly tighten and extract the swivel shaft.

These tips would have been incredibly helpful for me beforehand, although Ron's youtube videos were still incredibly helpful. The cotter pin was the worst. Many beers were drank, and spent a good amount of time with blow torches and hammers before just cutting the lower pin out, and using the threaded rod technique on the upper swivel shaft.

If anyone has any questions just let me know!

-John