Major Oil Leak
 

I was out yesterday in the intercoastal going for a couple adult beverages with wife, short ride 2 or 3 miles never went over 3600 RPM,

backed into the restaurant running fine 25 Oil psi at Idle, 140 degrees, turned engines off

came out found 3 quarts of oil in bilge, never would have noticed it before start up except engine wouldn't start, opened hatch and what a discovery, idled back to marina on 1 engine
pulled boat out filled 3 quarts and engine still wont turn over, the solenoid isn't even clicking, all electrical is working gauges etc.

my first question is any direction as far as leak might be the motors are fresh from the previous owner with only about 25 hrs. on them could it be the rear seal,

1993 32 fever, bone stock Gen IV 502 with Bravos

I know I have some major work but should I start with the starting issue first?

Direction please

Your only hope is that a line came off the oil cooler. That does not expalin the no start though. I think you are going to find a major problem.

Had full compression and leak down test 4 months ago was fine, I am perplexed as everybody says the rear seals don't leak, I haven't been able to get in far enough yet to see if one of the oil fitting lines is cracked at all down under the block. I have blown up plenty of motors in the past and this isn't acting like that. I was wondering if the hot oil may have shorted something, burnt a wire?? I am not sure, but I have heard of some small freeze plugs behind the flywheel leaking oil. Like I said I am just hoping for some direction

Pull all the sparkplugs and see if you can turn over with a pull handle...Good luck

I can turn the motor by hand with a huge breaker bar off the harmonic balancer, it's not cooked

I would pull the coil wire and jump the starter and see if it turns over. It could be something as stupid as a ignition switch. (I had that problem once)

There may be enough engine oil inside the starter if it is a low block mount. The oil insulates the brushes. The starter solenoid gets its ground through the starter brushes. This could be why your gauges work, yet your engine does not crank.

Have someone crank the key while you hold a test light at the slave solenoid for the starter. See If you are getting power to and from the slave solenoid. Also, check the grounds on the block, connection at the starter, and at the battery.

Last year being a dummy, I replaced a starter on my Chevy truck because I figured it was bad. Without doing the proper checks (and I know better), I installed the new starter. Still no crank. Although the battery positive connection looked good from the outside (side mount terminal), and all my lights worked, the culprit was a corroded positive battery connection. Cleaned it, and voila, she fired right up.

Not ...

Might double check the teathered kill switchs, seen that happen to a guy after he was at the resturant one time took him till mid week to trace it down.