Short bus.. err I mean 4BUS
 

Lets try this again, I looked over my set up and I think the only way to get all the oil out is to let all the other lines drip back to the pan like Griff said.
Then hook up a vac pump to the line that goes to the bottom of the cooler. On mine its accessible at the top. All I`d need is an adapter to hook to my -10an line.

The box is a vacuum pump btw , I`m an awesome drawer :D


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s1/...29204554-4.jpg

thats some funny chit right there.i can see mr borgie,s blood pressure rising,lol.

Nice drawing.

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My turn :cartman:

Nah that's funny as hell! Lol

You will want to lube those valves with sb's peanut oil

ICDEDPPL, first of all NICE set up!! Second, all you really would need is the small hose that the Jabsco pumps come with that go in the dipstick tube, it should go right in the cooler line & would pull all the oil right out. Mild Thunders Y valve would be slick if mounted on the bottom & accessible. That could make for a 15 minute oil change start to finish even with a big offshore pan. Or did winter finally drive me insane? Randy

I say just start the leave the engine running while sucking all the oil out. Once you see the oil psi gauge drop to 0, you should be good. Just to be sure, let it run for another couple minutes. Then refill :bong:

:poopoo: :lolhit:

These avatars are getting dangerous, I was reading MT's comment while looking at the avatar & it made perfect sense!!:drool1::Score-101010::drool1:

Yeah it socks being older if I had an avatar like that I'd be considered a perv lol, but keep Em coming I'm not dead yet!

After 9 pages of posts I'm glad someone finally figured out how to do an oil change. I'm left wondering though if the love birds kissed and made up and also if they had any make-up relations...

:poopoo:

Black Baja - added to the "list" :D

The thread wasn't about changing oil, it was about what oil to use.....did you miss that?:party-smiley-004:

No, initially it was about how to do a complete oil change. Oh I got it u guys kissed and made up and you don't want to end up in the dog house.

Lovers quarrels I tell u...

I recently learned it was impossible to change all the oil, so I am no longer going to change my oil.

And no make up, thread was deleted by the oso gods. It was using a lot of bandwidth yet not providing any useful information....but it was fun.

I was hoping ICEDCOFFEE would send me a free "vacuum box" for all my trouble

I would just use a 0wt oil and u will b fine

I know its filthy and out in the bodyshop for a month doesn't help. But this is a way to do it. I spose there's something wrong with this too.:confused:

I like that top mount starter idea a lot....... Nice looking motor btw..... Looks angry!

$bus I disapprove of your new avatar, I have not yet had my fill of the a$$ one, please change it immediately or I`m gonna send you a vacuum box full of dog ****!

He just put that on there to try and mask his feelings for his true hunny poo poo. We all know what picture he really wants as his avatar.

I think there is a disease going around "sub 25ft syndrome"

I agree. Glad I'm in the 27' class now.

You guys have it all wrong. Cut notches in the front oil seal. This serves 2 purposes.

1. Oil will seep out hitting the harmonic balancer, which intern slings oil about the bilge coating all the expensive billet hardware with a protective film preventing corrosion even in salt water.

2. As you add a quart or 2 of oil before each outing, this creates a perpetual oil change situation. Your oil is always fresh protecting vital internal engine components.

No more time consuming oil changes or polishing blowers etc, The time you save directly relates to increased time enjoying you boat!!!!!

Plus when you run the bilge pump it will self lube . Someone in the Gulf is using this method...............

Another bonus Phragle didn't mention, for those who have bling lighting it will give everything " that wet shiny look":cool::bong::cool-smiley-027:

I saw a Robin today.........it was froze to death .