As you must know already, if you don't bleed, you didn't do it correctly.

Also, be more nervous about no bolts/nuts left over than having some left over.

is it possible that newer tighter motor, less oil spraying around and more staying in the bearings longer gives oil more time to heat up?

I agree shoot the filters with a temp gun first. Also, while unlikely, is it possible that one engine is reading the temps after the cooler and one before? Maybe hose routing after the rebuild?

Oil stat element fully opened just before the water boiled.

How is the boo-boo?

I would shoot a temp gun at the oil pan, oil filter and the sender compare that then compare against the other engine doing the same.. This would be the easiest and first place to start as others mentioned.

lol, its not bad . At first I thought stitches, but then realized I was being a puzzy. Its a minor slice. :helmet:

Put some RTV in it than wrap it with duct tape.

Done

direct from the 500EFI merc manual

Oil temp at 5200RPM=170-180*. (Full throttle)

I dont know how mercury racing got away with those temperatures. On oso, you need 250* oil temps or your engine will get milkshaked, not lubricate properly, and destroy itself. You need to get high oil temps to burn off the water coming in from your poor choice of camshaft selection thats reverting.

Page 76.

http://www.mercuryracing.com/_media/...5010%20500.pdf

Which brand RTV would you suggest? Is ultra black ok? Or ultra grey? Or Ultra blue? Or hylomar? How much should i use? Where is budman anyway?