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Its a mystery to me.. just condensation?
Maybe not to others but I`m trying to figure out what going on with both my motors:
Dip sticks: http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s6/...85989735-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...18637579-3.jpg This is the only corner where the milk is forming in the valve cover.. right below the cold water lines http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s10...15323128-4.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...82068569-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s6/...49403026-3.jpg Cold water above, hot ring of spring oiler below.. this 'milk' seems to be coming from the top of the valve cover:confused: The rest of the valve cover is ..no milk anywhere: http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s12...27512746-3.jpg Oil from bottom of the pan 3 hours later, no seperation, oil looks ok. http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...42740719-3.jpg The lake on the Wisconsin side is COLD but I`ve never seen this before, first year with spring oilers too thou. Any ideas? |
Are you running an oil thermostat?
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Whats your oil temp getting up to? It has to get hot enough to burn the moisture out of it. Might wanna think about some oil thermostats
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No water thermostats.. but yes oil stats that open @ 180*
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Oil temp about 180*
Water temp has never gone above 100* but its always been that cold. You guys thinking condensation? I was hoping it wasn`t head gaskets. I spent some time trying to decide weather to use rtv around the water ports or not but in the end went dry. |
Where your valve covers changed too ? If so, they might be causing more condensation than the old one's.
I have seen some peoplee run into this (N/A though - don't know how to do on your blower and carb set up) that installed auto type pcv system and eliminated it. Remember, water vapor (steam) rises to top. Also, valve cover , especially if aluminum, will cool down before oil does. Add some humidity and wallah, condensation. |
i ran into that problem on a few motors up north here. water temps are cold and without thermostats the motor will never get to a desirable operating temp. i switched from circulation pumps and no thermostats to water crossovers and 140 stats and it reduced the "camel cum" tremendously. having 150-180 water temps aren't bad. the higher temp will also let your block grow in relation to your piston growth. kinda like letting a 2 stroke warm up and grow before beating the hell out of it so you dont stick a piston.
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and extended idling and short trips will cause it too. go out and run her hard and get her all warmed up and i bet it goes away
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I have the same issues on Lake Mi. I use to quadruple check the dipsticks to see if I was gaining any oil. I realized I never gained nor loss oil. I pulled valve covers every week. I now just chalk it up to what sb stated, steam/moisture rises. I also have a long idle time in a channel.
Edit... I never see it on my dipsticks. |
Originally Posted by 88bullet
(Post 4160721)
i ran into that problem on a few motors up north here. water temps are cold and without thermostats the motor will never get to a desirable operating temp. i switched from circulation pumps and no thermostats to water crossovers and 140 stats and it reduced the "camel cum" tremendously. having 150-180 water temps aren't bad. the higher temp will also let your block grow in relation to your piston growth. kinda like letting a 2 stroke warm up and grow before beating the hell out of it so you dont stick a piston.
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