When to change spark plugs and finally got the boat back to 63mph
 

HI everyone, just a quick question-
D
o you typically change your plugs at the end of they year after you fog, winterize etc., so that it is ready to go in the spring?

or

Wait until you went thru the "all stored during the winter fuel" with all the storage additives and older gas etc., and then replace them?

Also it's been a little cool up here in northern Indiana. I had the boat out today and finally got the performance back to what I was experiencing in the spring.

Thank you in advance.

Safe boating

3pointstar

Fogging oil kills plugs. Best bet is if your gonna fog them, put fresh plugs in come spring as part of your spring commission.

x 2.

Furthermore, run engine for a bit on first start up. Then change the plugs. That way any remnants of oil will be burned off and wont soak into your new plugs.

Thank you all -- I suspected the most logical was after the first start-up next spring and that's what is going to be planned. Another thought is to put the old plugs in prior to winterization and use them

just a thought

3pointstar

And it also kills motors.

Ok, so not to hijack, but I'm sure the OP will ask.....so what's the best way to winterize?

S30 turned me onto this some years back because of having some carburetors get gummed up over our long winter hiatus.

Pull fuel seperator and drain. Fill with gas / 2 cycle pre-mix oil. I do it at the normal 40:1 as I have juggs of this for other stuff I have around here.

Start engine and when the carb is full of this mix you'll see slight blue whisper come out of tailpipes.

Bonus is is that it 'fogs' top end of combustion chamber.

I haven't had clogged up carbs since.

Note: Since 1st year of E10, I had a few billet carbs that got clogged each year. Never had a problem with Normal Stabil or Marine stabil mix before then.

Explain please! :cartman:

My guess is pre-ignition or detonation.

Ok, thanks, I'll go with the 2cycle mix method when the time comes.

I've started fogging the motor by turning it over without starting it. Just found it to be easier and plugs don't get fouled out. I also use marine stabil for ethanol fuels but I also started draining the tank as well so I can start the season without having to worry about the condition of my fuel. I have also stopped using RV antifreeze, I found out it was jelling in the motor and plugging the steam holes in the head gaskets. I drain the water the best I can and take about a pint of straight auto antifreeze and pour it through the thermostat opening and through the supply line coming from the oil cooler. I always pull the seawater pump to check the impeller and help extend its life. I have found I can run my plugs and impeller many seasons this way.

Bingo. Oil and high compression is a big no no.

i am not a fan of fogging oil and i do like sb,s idea with the 2 cycle oil.

From what I remember Merc protocol for efi engines was to run 10 or 20 min on a tank of pre mix.

I wasn't either until I had to rebuild a motor that had been stored without it due to excessive cylinder wall rust. I use Amsoil's fogger and that's why I don't start it. I can use less oil and it doesn't carbon up and foul the plugs as it does when you run the engine. I have thought about using Marvel oil in a spray bottle as well.

The BEST way... Ship you boat to south Florda, and have it stored there. Then you can take a couple long weekend off from work, grab a flight to Sunny town, and go boating!:D

Then go back to work on Tuseday and explain to every one else why your tan stays year round :)

Here's one Bulletin from Merc explaining as such:
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/01/01_15.pdf

Merc ratio is 10 to 1 and Volvo Penta is 50 to 1 as the same mix. We use a portable outboard gas tank with the soup mix but do 35 or 40 to 1 ratio for gas to oil.

This has worked out the best. Also you want to use a quality 2 - stroke oil that mixes well in the fuel. And use a quality fuel stabilizer.

We have found that Mercs 10 to 1 mix of gas to oil coats to much oil on some of the internals and spark plugs. Also the 496 hates this 10 to 1 mix as it can foul plugs.

We do all EFI / MPI and CARB engines exactly the same way as the Merc Service Bulletin but change the gas to oil 35 or 40 to 1.

This helps coats with oil (2 stroke) all the internal fuel lines and fuel pumps, carbs, fuel injectors, fuel rails and hose barbs and so on from corrosion of E-10 fuel and condensation that can form thru out the winter. Been doing this way for years and probably if I had to say how many boats maybe 5000 at least . So that should hold water.

Also we call it THE SOUP MIX in the industry. FWIW

Also IMO I think Merc 10 to 1 gas to oil mix is way too much for the Catalyst engines because you are coating the sub strake core of the cat and the precious metals that it made of.

Also do not forget to add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the boats gas tank since you are running it on a portable fuel supply mix.

So is this were yours is going?
If so you have another MN to help use it down there :)

I like this idea mind if I as some details?