No, don't have one, haven't heard of it either. What kind of store is it?

AD, at this point I would try the hump hose. Multiple vendors out there selling it, or you might find it locally at an exhaust shop or speed shop that caters to turbo cars. Good luck - I know all about those projects that like to crap the bed over and over. ;)

Agree, its a boat so its going to happen, sure wish it didn't happen so often

Was ready to spend 70 each for silicone hump hoses :eekdrop: but then I found some new old stock Trident rubber ones on ebay for 20 each. Bought 6 at that price, will be looking for pipe now. Taking the drive to the Merc dealer this morning

They make custom hydraulic hose and exhaust hose, heater hose, flexible exhaust hose pretty muchevery hose you can imagine.

Called and emailed Purosil and discussed. Larry Scott said he will get his engineers on it and give me a call back. Also called eddie marine and asked them. EMI indicated my current setup will not work and I should have bought there 3+ system which also dropped back down after the manifolds. The guy offered to take mine back but I had bungs installed so that was a no-go. Another $2600 will get me a new set which will work. Man this black could keeps coming.

Called my local welding shop and ask if they can do some mods for me, they said sure. So unless I hear something tonight I'm taking my elbows to them tomorrow. I was sure after getting my new hump boots and pipe I could make this work, was not going to happen

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9465&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9497&type=full

What is not working:
Fuel gauge is not working, maybe its a digital sender, don't know
Trim limit is not working
Trim gauge is pegged in the red zone

More to come later

Not sure what brand it was but I saw a motor with risers that looked like that and they had some custom "Wedges" that went between the riser and manifolds. Looked like maybe it changed the angle about 5-10 degrees more down. Dont know if a welder/fab shop could make some for you but I would think they could for under 250.00 or so.

Chris

AD, just noticed that you are also in KY. Where are you located? If I can do anything to help you out, the offer's there - although you might not want me around for fear that my boating cluster black cloud might start following you as well.

I'm in Cumberland county.. Hey Bud your could cannot be any worst then mine

Took the elbows in this AM and they are going to shorten them up 8 inches. This will give my 14 inches to use a hose to connect to the tips. I ordered some Flex hose (flex that's a joke) and hope I can make it work. If all else fails again, I'll take the pipe which was cut off and use it with the hump boots.

Sure hope I can get it in the water before fall

Cycled the key on/off and heard the fuel pump turn on. Did it a few more times and think the fuel rail could be primed now. With the fuel gauge not could be a larger problem. Turned the key on and left it that way for a bit, mean while I unplugged the lube bottle and connected them together. No alarm from that nor the oil pressure switch. The battery gauge does come up so that's working. Need to dig further into the wiring.

You are a little further away from me than I thought. I'm near Louisville.

Will shortening the risers by that much expose you to the possibility of reversion? If any concerns here, maybe he could take that inner pipe that he cuts off and weld it back on at a downward angle towards the tips. Then you can put your rubber hose on to connect everything, and you will still have the extra length of inner riser as a hedge against reversion.

Haven't heard anything about having to worry about reversion. They just wanted me to go up 3 inches because my boat sits so low in the water. When the engine was taken apart all the pistons showed slight signs of water getting in with stock engine. There was a couple times I had to shut it down quick, like when the alarm went off do to water pump belt broke.

I have a high lift cam but the separation is not that great, at least to the what I have been told.

I lived most my life in Louisville, spent many years on the river, still like the river

Another thought, got the fuel gauge working, and I think my alarm system should be OK. Keep forgetting I don't have a MEFI-1 system anymore, have a MEFI-3, all warning faults go to the computer now. the computer causes the ground to sound the alarm. Engine needs to be running first.

Got the trim gauge to start to move, but still will not stop trimming up. Need to get some help to work in both locations.

Ya alarm is constant with key on until start. I think it is a no oil pressure alarm until start.

Chris

Sorry, my mistake I wasn't being very clear. Keep having the problem with folks not being able to read my pea brain

I was wanting the alarm to go off and it never did so I thought there was a problem. With the MEFI-3 the engine has to be running and loose oil pressure or other to sound the alarm. My old MEFI-1 had about a 15 second delay before the horn would sound if it didn't start right away

Ya that what I was saying.. The way yours is now with the key on it senses no oil pressure therefore the alarm is going off. Once started it senses oil pressure then the alarm goes off. At least thats the way mine is..And it is loud as F...

Chris

Budman you were right, Eddie says I need the length to keep reversion down. So I called and stopped the guy from working on the exhaust. I'm going in Monday to see if he can make me a tube to fit what I have (doubt it) or I'll be cutting the holes so it will come straight out. If I do that I'll probably have to go up 2 inches, and with that might need to add length to my turndowns

Starting to sound like it may be easier to re drill the holes make some plugs and patch the transom

Is it possible to just install a set of wedges to at least get the downward angle to get you closer, and then make up the side to side difference with hose?

Aside from that, I don't see why someone could not cut the tails and change the angle on them to make them come close to lining up. Seems like that would be easier than major transom surgery.

Only other thought I would have would be to make some kind of stainless blockoff plate to go over the existing holes and cut new ones, but I'm not sure you would like the looks of that.

If they simply took a pie shaped cut about 3 inches from the end, then bent it inward to close up the gap, that would probably allow him enough room to get a TIG welder in there and weld the inner pipe, and then just zip a weld around the outer pipe, and now you have your side to side alignment mostly corrected. Then have someone fabricate a pair of wedges to kick the tails downward a little bit, and it would seem like you should be able to get things hooked up. I realize that I may not be able to see the full picture from just a photograph. Just some ideas to kick around.

I picked the elbows back up and going to re-install tomorrow. My plan is to put a steel straight edge in side the pipe and bring it out the existing hole. Measure from it up to top of pipe and transfer that to the outer transom. Will measure several points until I figure the inside of the pipe then add the distance for the outer circumference. Then take a piece of 3/4 plywood which I have already cut a 4 inch hole and screw that to the transom. Then cut the half moon out. Once out I'll rotate it and epoxy it back on the opposite side.

Could use the outside of the pipe but it does not give me the same amount of space to work with through the existing holes.

Other issues to decide before I start cutting is, the angle of the pipe is different then the tip. There is 12 to 15 degrees difference. I could split the difference and cut a bit higher, this would cause a smoother arch when trying to install the hose. I will have to use hose because the larges boot I have is 5 1/4 long and the space is 6 to 6 1/2 inches currently, will be a bit less once holes are moved

The other issue I have is the transom is 2 1/4 thick, my holes saw is 1 7/8, so I'll need to cut from both sides, unless something like my jig saw will finish the cut

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6708&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9465&type=full

AD, looking at that picture makes me think even more that a set of wedges between the riser and manifold would both help to correct your up/down offset and help with the downward angle, but there is obviously something that I am missing when just looking at the pictures. Sounds like you have a handle on it. Will you have room to get at the inside of the transom to cut from that side? I assume that you will have to respray the gel on the transom after you cut the new tips, right? Hate to see you having to go through all this. I considered doing something similar for the alignment problem on my boat, but I have a swim platform that already has cutouts for the existing openings, and I don't think I can cut through that. Good luck with it!

Budman, Wedges would help but they might cause other issues. My manifolds use screw in studs and they are not that long. After adding the lube bottle on the starboard side and the oil filter on the right there are no threads left once put together. I could get longer studs but my holes are also off to the left, not just down. With the riser removed there is room but not a lot, I can get it done but it will be tuff.

Not two minutes ago I had a thought which should work and make it easier. I now have two 4 inch hole saws. I'm going to take both of them to the welding shop tomorrow and see if they can cut the back off one and weld the two together. This will give me at least 2 1/2 inches of depth. this way I can cut the hole all from the outside.

I'll get it all back together and this fall or spring I'll get back to making it look pretty with new gelcoat and all. You actually have to be floating in the water to see under my swim deck. No biggy this season I'm just want it in the water and enjoy it so and also before my warranty runs out.

Cut half way through, then just pry the piece out and continue. I just did a bunch of holes like that last week. A small flathead screwdriver should pop the piece right out. The plywood isn't laminated "that" strong

I like the thought but I want to reuse it on the bottom of the hole. Did you do the same and if so did it go back together ok?

Seriously Dodge, this is painful to read. By the looks of your project, you probably posess above average skills. Go back to post #111 and see if it makes sense to you. I'll never be able to write a technical article so I'm not sure if its easy to comprehend, so if it needs further explanation, just ask. Point is, if I can do it, then almost anyone can. It will easily and cheaply address your problem. And for the record, its not my idea, I read it years ago in a Bob Teague article in Power Boat magazine.

Sure appreciate the input and I re-read the post. Discussed the possibilities of doing something like what you mentioned yesterday. While it could be angled down and to the left doing something similar, this would increase the down angle. Increasing this angle would make it harder to get a hose to connect as I see it. I think it could be done if the pipe was cut further back, angled down then back up, which I would need more pipe and basically make the pipes like the pipes EMI makes.

Do 2 angles then. Address this issue with mods to the riser, its your quickest and cheapest solution. You are just digging a bigger hole for yourself cutting up the transom.

I hear but don't quite agree. Fixing the transom should not be that hard and epoxy will make a strong bond along with glass. If I fix it this time and I need to replace the exhaust in the future it should be easier.

Going to pickup a holes saw from the welder, he took two of them and put them together so I will have enough to go clear through from one side. Spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out where to cut. I did find out that the pipes or manifolds are slightly different. Don't know if it's top of the milled surface of the manifold or the pipes but on comes down about 1/4 inch below the other. Swapped them back and forth a few times to make sure.

Did notice when I was aligning the engine, the port side is almost clear to the top and the starboard is about 1/2 inch down from the top. It was close to that originally so it came that way.

Decided to find center of the pipes and how they would come out if it was solid thru, then change the angle where the tips will enter at a 15 degree difference. The dark mark is where I plan to cut. Also raised them about a 1/4 inch due to less angle.

Port side
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...5320&type=full

Starboard side
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...5357&type=full

Have drilled the holes and I'm pleased how they came out. Having a saw which can be used clear through is a big plus. Also being able to measure where the holes should be moved is also a good thing. Need to clean the silicone off the old hole and get it ready for epoxy and glass.

Put plywood plate over the hole and drilled thru

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...edataid=223136

Tools and piece that came out

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0125&type=full

Port inside with half moon in place. Came out pretty good

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0207&type=full

Starboard side

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0260&type=full

Starboard inside

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0314&type=full

Looks like you had some transom work to do anyway, so it looks like a decent solution. Like I said; you have above average skills:cool-smiley-011:

Well Dodge I bet you slept good last night...lol.. I really think that was the best solution to the problem. Cutting on the exhaust would just have been covering up a problem that would bite you in the ass down the road.

Chris

Thanks guys, today I plan to get everything epoxied in. Tomorrow I hope to be able to drill screw holes for the tips and do some cosmetic stuff. Going to Louisville tomorrow to do some work that Mom needs done. Cross fingers but maybe fire it up on Friday :boat:

Had two layers of CSM trying to take up space and to help bond. After getting CSM soaked in place then slide in the pieces. After that noticed some of the resin was coming out of the cracks. Took blue tape and did a quick wipe down and covered it up. Then noticed the half moos were not laying real flat. SO took wood and screwed it in place then held the piece tight and put on into it.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...1893&type=full


Put one layer of CSM on the inside and ground paint away around the outside edge

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...1928&type=full

Should be dry enough to remove the wood in later afternoon, hitting 92 today.

AD, I have to commend you for your perseverance. My old ass would be ready to quit and head into the house for a cold beer. Nicely done! Good luck with the shakedown cruise.

Looks like you will be up in my neck of the woods. I will be taking Thursday and Friday off myself to try to get my tub in the water. What lakes do you normally hit? Never know, might cross paths on the water someday.

This old guy has had many times which I was almost ready to throw in the towel, but I kept going. A friend came down to help a few times and a couple of those times it what kept me going. I see the end of the tunnel and sure hope it's not a train. :lolhit:

I have a full size fridge in the shop with some of the coolest cans just waiting. Two big fans and some chairs to sit ad watch what's going on.

Spend most all my time at Dale

Edit: The epoxy has already started setting up so I removed the wood and tape. Broke out some 24hour 5200 and started filling old screw holes and a few voids.

We usually make a trip to Sulphur Creek every year and rent a cabin. Had it all scheduled for next weekend - 3 BR cabin, boat slips, even had one of the big pontoons rented with a sliding board to keep the kiddos entertained and to act as home base for grilling back in a cove. Whole thing fell through when my niece made a national field hockey team and will be playing that weekend. Basically had everyone bail on us, can't afford to rent a cabin that size for just us. I need to find some new boating buddies!

BTW, judging from your name, I am going to guess you are a MOPAR fanatic.

Yep, Mopar kind of guy, even when most everyone didn't, but also have had many other types (Wife has a Caddy). Started AllDodge when I got my first Diesel and was on Cummins forum

The shop that Dyno'ed my engine specializes in MOPARS. He operates in Buffalo KY, right outside of Hodgenville. I believe he campaigns an Aspen wagon in Super Stock with a 318 that is making over 500 HP with stock heads, intake, carb, etc. (Of course it is not completely stock! ;) )

Did some sanding this AM and there is a few areas where it has some pits.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7317&type=full

Drilled my holes for the tips. Mixed up some epoxy with caposil and used a 12 inch drywall knife and gave it a quick skim coat. When it dries I could put barrier coat and then bottom paint, but don't want to put it off for another day for the barrier coat to dry. This area is above the water line anyway.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7400&type=full

Well didn't get it fired up today. Painted and installed the tips and had a little luck, the exhaust hose came in today, so got it cut to fit and installed. I don't want to say this to loud, but I think everything is ready, so I'm going to try to get her started tomorrow. Have storms coming in and if they manage to move out I'll give it a go. Fingers crossed and all that.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9699&type=full