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DUI distributor wiring question.
Installed a new DUI distributor in my BBC, replacing a factory Thunderbolt V ignition, and trying to find a good source for power to the distributor. Tried it at the starter solenoid, but the solenoid is only 3 lug and the small post apparently is only hot when the starter is engaged. Engine would start up, but quit when I released the key to the run position. I am going to double check it with a voltmeter, tomorrow when I go up to my boat.
Where is the best place to connect a 12 ga. wire for power to the distributor? Wondering if I can I run a power wire from the slave solenoid direct to the distributor? Wires from the ignition are purple, but they are somewhat smaller than a 12 ga wire, but there is a red/purple wire connected to one of the small terminals and I think it is hot when the ignition is in the run mode (again, will check it tomorrow). Red/purple wire is fused and runs from the ignition switch to the alternator, circuit breaker and slave solenoid. If this terminal is hot when the ignition is in the run mode, would this be an adequate location to obtain power for the distributor? A friend suggested that I use the existing 12v (+) coil purple wire for power. This wire is not a 12 ga wire (but none of the purple wires in this harness are), and is probably a 14 or 16ga wire. With a run so short, will a 14 or 16 ga wire provide enough voltage to power the distributor and provide 12+ volts? Unfortunately, electricity and circuits are not my forte, so sorry in advance for the uneducated question. Any info and help would be appreciated. Thanks |
Originally Posted by shunter2005
(Post 4209554)
Installed a new DUI distributor in my BBC, replacing a factory Thunderbolt V ignition, and trying to find a good source for power to the distributor. Tried it at the starter solenoid, but the solenoid is only 3 lug and the small post apparently is only hot when the starter is engaged. Engine would start up, but quit when I released the key to the run position. I am going to double check it with a voltmeter, tomorrow when I go up to my boat.
Where is the best place to connect a 12 ga. wire for power to the distributor? Wondering if I can I run a power wire from the slave solenoid direct to the distributor? Wires from the ignition are purple, but they are somewhat smaller than a 12 ga wire, but there is a red/purple wire connected to one of the small terminals and I think it is hot when the ignition is in the run mode (again, will check it tomorrow). Red/purple wire is fused and runs from the ignition switch to the alternator, circuit breaker and slave solenoid. If this terminal is hot when the ignition is in the run mode, would this be an adequate location to obtain power for the distributor? A friend suggested that I use the existing 12v (+) coil purple wire for power. This wire is not a 12 ga wire (but none of the purple wires in this harness are), and is probably a 14 or 16ga wire. With a run so short, will a 14 or 16 ga wire provide enough voltage to power the distributor and provide 12+ volts? Unfortunately, electricity and circuits are not my forte, so sorry in advance for the uneducated question. Any info and help would be appreciated. Thanks |
When I had a Dui in my 496 I spliced directly into the purple ignition wire and never had an issue. No need to over complicate things.
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running one now, just to factory ign wire
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Fixx - I will do that if I can't get power any other way. Thanks
Originally Posted by Black Baja
(Post 4209640)
When I had a Dui in my 496 I spliced directly into the purple ignition wire and never had an issue. No need to over complicate things.
Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 4209657)
running one now, just to factory ign wire
If the old TB V was an HEI ignition and ran off the smaller purple wire, shouldn't this DUI run off of it also. I know they say that it should have a 12 ga. wire, but..... Man, here I go again, making this more complicated than it should be. I just want to be sure that I am going to get 12-14 volts to this distributor. Heading up to check this out today. Hopefully, I will get it straightened |
Went up and checked wires with the voltmeter. The existing purple (+) coil wire was putting out 12+ volts with the key on. Sooooo, I tapped into it and hooked it up. Cleaned everything up and gave it a go. Lit off almost immediately. Set the timing and she ran like a top on muffs. Will put it in the water next week and see if she still runs good.
I appreciate the responses here that made it a bit easier to go ahead and do it. Thanks |
Here is a good .pdf of popular black motor wiring schematics that could prove valuable to have in one's computer boat folder: http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Techbk/94/94hg4d.pdf
There are more on the net of course, if you do some searching. |
:drink:
Originally Posted by shunter2005
(Post 4209890)
Went up and checked wires with the voltmeter. The existing purple (+) coil wire was putting out 12+ volts with the key on. Sooooo, I tapped into it and hooked it up. Cleaned everything up and gave it a go. Lit off almost immediately. Set the timing and she ran like a top on muffs. Will put it in the water next week and see if she still runs good.
I appreciate the responses here that made it a bit easier to go ahead and do it. Thanks |
Originally Posted by sonicss42
(Post 4210096)
:drink:
That's what I said i did on the Checkmate Forums. My feelings aren't hurt that you did not trust me. Glad it worked for ya. Oh, and you were certainly correct. If you over think it, it does become more complicated than it has to be and will drive you crazy. I have spent hours searching for info about this. Next time (if there is one), I will ask more pointed questions and try to get it straight in my thick old head. Thanks |
used several of the large cap HEI's I always buy the correct connectors from summit splice them to the power and tach and roll on...
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Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 4211439)
used several of the large cap HEI's I always buy the correct connectors from summit splice them to the power and tach and roll on...
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Originally Posted by shunter2005
(Post 4210108)
Sorry, it's not that I didn't trust you, I just didn't understand your explanation of where you got the power. I took it that you somehow plugged into a flat plug in the EFI harness and that threw me, since mine is carbed. You threw me another little curve with the additional wire for the oil pressure alarm out of the harness. As I said, I am electricity challenged and I just couldn't grasp it. I kept thinking about the ignition module and the knock sensor harness plugs in my boat and didn't know if I could use the purple wires there. I finally realized that all the purple wires were the same size (DUH!!), so I opted for the existing purple (+) coil wire that wasn't being used. All that worry for basically nothing. I kept reading everywhere that the DUI had to have a 12 ga. wire for power.
Oh, and you were certainly correct. If you over think it, it does become more complicated than it has to be and will drive you crazy. I have spent hours searching for info about this. Next time (if there is one), I will ask more pointed questions and try to get it straight in my thick old head. Thanks |
Originally Posted by shunter2005
(Post 4210108)
If you over think it, it does become more complicated than it has to be and will drive you crazy. I have spent hours searching for info about this.
Thanks Overthinking can make things mind boggling with no way out. LOL. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4211653)
And that's what happens with some people on the subject of oil on every motorsport / hobby forum on the internet.
Overthinking can make things mind boggling with no way out. LOL. |
I realize this is an old thread but this is where the search function lead me. I'm hoping some of you are still active. I've gathered that its ok to just wire the DUI unit into the factory ignition wire. My question is in regards to the factory Mercruiser ignition control and knock modules. Can I leave them plugged in and expect them to function as advertised?
Thanks in advance and again my apologies for resurrecting a dinosaur. |
No, you need to get them out of the system. The DUI is self contained. What happened to your TB V? They don't fail often.
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Originally Posted by NHGuy
(Post 4628822)
No, you need to get them out of the system. The DUI is self contained. What happened to your TB V? They don't fail often.
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I was running a DUI ignition off of the purple wire, and then wired in a relay and 12g wire and it completely transformed the performance of the boat. Stronger midrange and top end gained a couple hundred rpm. |
Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4628843)
I was running a DUI ignition off of the purple wire, and then wired in a relay and 12g wire and it completely transformed the performance of the boat. Stronger midrange and top end gained a couple hundred rpm. Was it like this? 85 - PURPLE 86 - GND 87 - TO DIST 87a - NOT USED 30 - BATT+ |
This is a handy little relay from Amazon. A better way to go would be to get another Merc trim/starter relay as they have been proven in marine use. Another reason not to run the ignition off of the starter is the tether kill switch won’t kill the ignition. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f18b7cfa2e.gif ONLINE LED STORE 40/30 Amp Waterproof Relay Switch Harness Set - 12V DC 5-Pin SPDT Automotive Relays 12 AWG Hot Wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N66W2XF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RuydBbK7SX3ZA |
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