1998 Cool Fuel Replacement
 

Wondering if any one has replaced the stock cool fuel system with an electric pump and bypass set up, if so can you give me some info on your set up?
Thanks in advance.

I did, removed all of the merc crap, used a aeromotive A1000 pump, filters before and after pump, boost referenced regulator, with return to tank, procharged 500HP the correct way to do this...

So you are not running any sort of fuel cooler and or fuel cooling period anymore, You have an external mounted fuel pump as I know what you are using but just checking 100 %, if that is correct I can not see how - you are not experiencing vapor lock in your hottest months of boating especially if your temps are 100 plus and especially after shut down with engine & fuel heat soak. - the fuel boiling away. Just asking. Now if your fuel pump(s) are in the gas tank thats a different story. that is the best way to prevent vapor lock and maintain cooler running fuel temps plus add longevity to the fuel pump(s).

You can get a inline fuel cooler from Mr.Cool. Then add an electric pump like ezstriper said.

http://www.mrcool.us/engine-products...r-coolers.html

I set my whole fuel system up with NPT fittings so I just used the smallest oil cooler I could find (2"x8") and plumbed that in my system after the A1000 pump. My fuel rails are colder than your ex's heart. My regulator is on the return lines from the rails and for simplicity I just dumped it back to the filter head. (very large filter head might I add)

I was just asking if he got rid of the fuel cooler also." His post was got rid of all the Merc crap ". I promise I know how to set these up and I have a dealer account with most to buy whatever at wholesale, I use R&D a lot. Just saying.

I ordered a fuel cooler from this company, Mr. Cool, and was highly disappointed. Didn't receive anything like an effective fuel cooler. Then, no one would return a call. I would steer clear of these guys.

the cool fuel was a merc bandaid to try to stop vapor locking and not do a return line to tank(the way the system should have been done) no I have never had any vapor lock issues what so ever, the fuel line setup on the std EFI engines was about on par with their oil lines/fittings/cooler...and yes I did remove the cool fuel as well, still have it if anybody is interested..

That's great you are not experiencing vapor lock. Merc is not the only engine manu using cool fuel.. ILmor, Volvo, Marine power , Indmar, PCM all use a form of cool fuel unless the fuel pump(s) are mounted in the fuel tank. PCM returns their fuel to the gas tanks on all of their MPI apps for years now along with some of the sportboats that were changed over by whomever. They still vapor locked in very high summer temps. Just saying.

Actually fuel pump(s) installed in the gas tank is 99.% really the way too prevent vapor. Just saying and will add this from my findings as working on boats professionally since 1991 - when we were setting record temps of 115 to 119 degrees and water temps were extremely very high, the boats that were not experiencing vapor locking was Mastercrafts because their fuel pump(s) were installed in the fuel tank. The boats with the fuel return to the gas tank still vapor locked and if not, a lot of them experienced fuel boiling away after shut down - heat soak at the external electric fuel pump causing a no start condition. .

Also cooling and or cooler fuel temps is always better for making power - a cooler denser fuel charge is not a bad thing, I would want my fuel as cool as possible at all times regardless of my app and especially in 100 plus degree days. Not arguing just my experience on a wide range of marine apps. .

I have my pump mounted low, on bulkhead at fuel tank, line goes right to regulator, right above, so lines don't get close to engine per say, I understand engine room heat deal as well, also run 1 bilge blower bring air in to help keep fresher air in also run blowers whenever engine is running...