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Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts

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Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts

Old 08-12-2015, 03:57 PM
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Default Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts

Hi Guys I'm looking for advice on measuring for correct throw, placement and installation of a hatch lift. My hatch is actually the back seat and is fairly heavy and the seat is about 6 feet long.
I'm no physics major but I believe mounting closer to the opening requires a longer throw and less power and closer to the hinged point requires less throw but more power, is that correct?
Attached is a photo of my back seat as well as a similar boat with an actuator mounted on a brace that I don't have.
Any advice you can offer regarding ideal placement and throw measurement would be appreciated, also do I need 2?

Thanks

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Attached Thumbnails Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts-back-seat.jpg   Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts-bilge-before-painting-but-after-cleaning.jpg   Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts-boat-hatch-lift-modified-single.jpg  

Measuring and Installing Electric Hatch Lifts-boat-hatch-lift.jpg  
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:33 PM
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As a non-physics major I'll agree with your thoughts. What are you wanting to change, the amount the seat comes up, time it takes to do it?
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:10 PM
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I just finished installing an electric lift on my boat. I had many of the similar questions. After looking around at several cylinders most of which where 18-19 inches of travel and around 26-28 inches closed. Most lifts are rated in pounds as well but I think they are all similar at that size. My hatch is very heavy, flat with a cushion 55" X 84" it's a strain for one person to pull it up. If I had to guess I would say 200-225 pounds easy. So by being limited on 18" of throw, wanting it to open as far as possible and then being limited on hull placement it was easy to figure out where it needed to go. I have a 32' cat so center placement was possible, However I do lose some great access to my engines with this thing in the way. I had to fab up a bracket to fit between my stringers and I also glassed in a fabbed bracket and brace into my hatch to spread the load point. I don't think a stock hatch is designed to take that kind of pressure on a single point? So, get into your eng compartment with your lift closed, find a suitable mounting point in the hull as close to center of the boat as possible, You want a place where the closed lift will just fit between the hatch and hull including bracket. My brackets added 5 inches to the length from lift center lines of bolts. Have someone open your hatch to the point that you want it to open taking into account the 18" of travel it works itself out really. If you place it too far forward its only going to open a smaller amount not allowing access. I hope I didn't confuse you more? I'll post some pics when the boat comes back from the upholstery shop getting the pad done. Like I said, I just did this so its still being finished up. It does work though.
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