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My build is a little different but I'll throw it in there too, I used a Canton road race oil pan on my 383 build and the dipstick is starboard side. I reused the original 260 dipstick, but my problem was the tube wouldn't go through the windage tray in the pan and would kick it to the side. So I had to cut the length which rendered the evacuating capabilities useless, not a game breaker for me. Then when I was checking oil in the pan VS. the dipstick reading it wasn't reading right so I had to cut off the threads at the top of the tube, there again it wouldn't evacuate anyways so no big deal.
Bottom line I was able to massage the tube and it fit the outside of the SM exhaust and still used the existing mount on the tube and it looks factory, see pic below, sorry it doesn't show very well. |
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Where did you find those anodized pulleys? They look sweet! What did you go with for cam, carb, intake combo on your 383 build? |
Originally Posted by CC230
(Post 4397964)
My build is a little different but I'll throw it in there too, I used a Canton road race oil pan on my 383 build and the dipstick is starboard side. I reused the original 260 dipstick, but my problem was the tube wouldn't go through the windage tray in the pan and would kick it to the side. So I had to cut the length which rendered the evacuating capabilities useless, not a game breaker for me. Then when I was checking oil in the pan VS. the dipstick reading it wasn't reading right so I had to cut off the threads at the top of the tube, there again it wouldn't evacuate anyways so no big deal.
Bottom line I was able to massage the tube and it fit the outside of the SM exhaust and still used the existing mount on the tube and it looks factory, see pic below, sorry it doesn't show very well. |
94Sylvan, the pulleys are painted same color as the block, they just look anodized. As far as the build, I used Vortec heads ported, polished and flowed, the stud bosses were cut down and I used 7/16 screw in studs with beehive springs and Scorpion Endurance rocker arms.
Once they were done we CC'd the chambers down to 60cc per Bob Madera. Cut the deck and used Cometic gaskets to get 9.4:1 compression and he designed the cam from there. Used a RPM Air gap intake and still need to get a good carb among other things. I fired it up on the cradle stand, sounds great, very stout and idles at 700 rpm. Sad part is I've been too busy to finish the boat! ezstriper , that's what I used in the past and had in the back of my mind also, thanks. |
It may be a good idea to paint your oil pan. I've had corrosion form on the zinc wash. You'll notice that the Canton marine pan is painted.
Jeff |
The canton pan had the zinc irridite coating, stripped it down primed with PPG DP 40 and painted aluminum Concept 2000.
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Originally Posted by CC230
(Post 4398210)
94Sylvan, the pulleys are painted same color as the block, they just look anodized. As far as the build, I used Vortec heads ported, polished and flowed, the stud bosses were cut down and I used 7/16 screw in studs with beehive springs and Scorpion Endurance rocker arms.
Once they were done we CC'd the chambers down to 60cc per Bob Madera. Cut the deck and used Cometic gaskets to get 9.4:1 compression and he designed the cam from there. Used a RPM Air gap intake and still need to get a good carb among other things. I fired it up on the cradle stand, sounds great, very stout and idles at 700 rpm. Sad part is I've been too busy to finish the boat! ezstriper , that's what I used in the past and had in the back of my mind also, thanks. |
Screw the outdrive, it can take most any small block build up...and remember, power under 3k does not really matter.
If you are worried about intake differences and slight loss of low end torque, still get as tall of dual plane as you can, but make sure the plenum divider is fully divided. The regular RPM is fully divided. Just close off the exh crossover thru intake. Felpro #1204 has this blocked. If you want an Airgap style, but fully divided, the Weiand Air Strike is built this way. All this aside, the Edelbrock RPM Airgap always makes more power on 383's and larger. Not a ton more, but enough. |
SB I've read that as well. Hotrod magazine did a comparison of all dual planes with a 350 and the RPM air gap is better than the Air Gap and the EPS (about 5-10 hp), but the curve is shifted up in the RPM obviously. The RPM performer and the RPM airgap both have the crossover cut-out slot under the carb. I thought the air strike does too, but I'll check again. The regular air gap and the EPS do not have the cutout. I am leaning toward the regular air gap over the EPS solely for reducing intake charge temperature even though the EPS slightly outperforms it. My 383 build is a little higher compression than I wanted (9.9:1) so I'm trying to get everything in my favor to help with preventing detonation. (flat tops with -5 cc reliefs, 73 cc polished chamber heads, 160 deg. thermostat, ideal quench height at .042") My cruising and tube pulling RPM will be right around 2800-3200 so that is my real question does the RPM model catch up by that point to the std. and then continue to outperform on the top end?
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