Spun bearing.

This is a probable. While you have it out...pull the main bearing caps and check all 5 for damage or scoring. If the motor gods are smiling on you...you get away with R & R rear main seal....but if it spun you are into....well... you know.

I've never seen a rear seal blow without the rear main coming loose.

You know the old rule: If you have something that runs real strong and you run it hard long enough...something will break.

Yes, but I needed to run away from the guy in the new bass boat. :lolhit:

Does this look like a standard amount of destruction? This is all that is in the oil filter..

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...psbf12l45d.jpg

I'll be pulling the motor out tonight. Unless it's just super hot.
I guess this will go from my left engine backfire thread to my right engine mid summer rebuild thread..

So this is the other engine? Wow, that sucks! I just assumed that the crossed wires caused a misfire leading to bearing damage. Good luck with it.

You can do everything right and boats will still break your heart. From what I can tell spare engine(s) and a shop are a necessity for boating.

Yup. Is what it is. Kinda sucks. If it makes you feel any better - we've all been there. Don't forget to replace or flush your oil cooler extremely well.

5,700 is just when their starting to sound good. Don't let those base boats try and push you in closer to shore either. Tbone em if you have to. Gotta get those little mosquitos out in the big waters. Ha

How bad was the element? In most cases I like copper but not in this form. :eek:

a good flush for the oil cooler is a high volume water pump and 5 gallons of diesel fuel and a Large oil filter to filter the oil going INTO the pump and just circulate it to the 5 gallon bucket of fuel. When you believe You have it all out then hit it with new fresh fuel and a new filter.

Thanks for the info guys. While I've got your attention. I need some help. These motors were 330hp last year. The only thing that remains is the bare heads and the blocks. I didn't add oil coolers. I was gonna do that when I put these in my other boat. I need to upgrade the oiling system. Dry sump I think is a little much for me now. What do yall recommend for oil coolers?

How big an oil pan are you guys running?

I'm running 12" Mercury Racing on both of my 355 Vortecs...they ran too cold (140* in 85* water so I had to put oil thermostats inline to get the operating temp up to 165~175*. They should work well for you....I think they were an over kill for me.

Thank you sprink58. I'll check into those.looks like what I need.
I finally got the engine taken apart tonight. I spun two main bearings pretty good, and got the other three hot. The rod bearings are fine, as well as the cam bearings and everything else as far as I can tell. I'll be running it over to the machine shop in the morning.

Soo.. I'm thinking oil coolers and 10 quart pans?

This is a pretty nice 10qt. pan. The one in the link is for a Mark IV.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/31557/10002/-1

You can get a decent cooler here. Just pick out the one you need.http://www.hardin-marine.com/c-731-t...l-coolers.aspx

So in doing a "Post Mortem" on this poor motor...what do you think happened to allow it to spin the Main Bearings ? I wonder if it quit oiling and if so why ? I also think about structural flex in the block that set up an oscillation in the crank causing a separation in the main bearing caps. Once just one cap allowed the bearing to spin...it stopped up an oil passage and/or allowed that rear main seal to blow out causing a fatal loss of oil pressure.

The "Metallurgist" side of my brain suggest that your machine shop "Hot Tank and then Magnaflux the lower end to check for cracks that would allow this to happen.

Sort of takes me back to my days in the UA Destructive Testing and Materials Forensics Lab at Tuscaloosa !! LOL

Good luck with this and let us know.

I got some coolers I would be willing to sell if interested, fresh water only, used for 2 years. I swapped them out because I replumbed my engines/trannies and it made sense to go with a different cooler for fitment!

I got the block and crank down to a shop in birmingham with an align boring machine on wednesday morning. Sprink, you're hurting my head with all this block flex magnaflux fancy schmancy talk. :) I think I either blew out the rear seal with too much crankcase pressure or I lost oil over the back of the black/intake joint. I always make that out of RTV. With the air gap edelbrock intakes it didn't take muck rtv, like near 1/8", with the blower intakes, it seems closer to 3/8". I think because of the thickness off the intake gaskets. I noticed when pulling the right motor apart, my bead wasn't quite touching in a few places in the rear. Which at high rpms would sling oil up there pretty good. So maybe that's where my oil went instead of too much crankcase pressure. That's what I'm hoping.

I've got some Milodon 31557 10 quart pans here now. I'm gonna pull the left side motor and replace the oil pan on it now also. I'm supposed to get my right motor back on wednesday so the race is on to get it together and meet the family in Gulf Shores next weekend. Now I've got to muster up the motivation to get out there and do some sweating.

Jim I may be in the market for your oil coolers. I think I'll address that in the off season. I do appreciate the offer.

I just wanted to follow up with you guys. I got the boat back together a few weeks ago and all is good now. The oil loss was between the back of the blocs and the intake. All sealed up and good to go. Milodon 10 quart pans now. We ran her last weekend on the Tennessee River in Florence Alabama and she runs great now. I appreciate the support and advice you guys give out here. It is and was very helpful.

I'd check all the cylinders personally.also double ck spark plug wire location. Make sure you didn't accidentally put back on wrong. Simple things you watch. Fuel pressure ?

ii reccomend replacing the oil cooler after a bearing failure,dam near imposible to get all the junk out no matter how good you flush.