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All aluminum vs all iron. About 100 lbs on small block. Everything else is still steel and iron that 100 lbs is expensive unless you get boneyard engines and build them. There are a lot of used ls engines out there for cheap. But what about iron tall deck small block aluminum heads. There is a big block hidden inside it.
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Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4511302)
Parts List:
Stock LS2 Block, bored .030 Callies 4" 4340 Crank Callies 6.125" 4340 Compstar Rods with ARP 2000 bolts Wiseco forged pistons -8cc dish Stock 317 truck heads with PRC (Texas Speed) stage 2.5 CNC Port, opened to 70cc's. Makes 10.5:1 it seems as thoughCompression Bob Madera cam, 243/250, .621/.613 112ls Its a carb motor running Daytona Sensors Smart Spark LS ignition To address the oiling issue, which is that the motors can actually pump too much oil over long hard runs, and can drain the pan before gravity can put the oil back down, I had a custom 12 quart oil pan made by Kevko Pans. I am also running a 29"x3" oil cooler with a built in thermostat and dual remote oil filters. All in all I have just over a 14 quart capacity. I am running Lightning headers. I fought reversion a big part of last year, so I completely dried up the exhaust. I tried to find my dyno sheets last night, but seem to have misplaced them. I'll have to get a new printout from my engine builder. I will however be dynoing it again here pretty soon. I am changing over to closed cooling and want to tweek the ignition a little. I feel like there is more power in the motor with a little more tuning. Here is a pic of the motor right after I set it in the boat and before I dried up the exhaust. https://s25.postimg.org/x7anfi4ov/image.jpg Here is a quick video of it idling at the dock my buddy took the first time I had it out last summer. I am in love with the way a cammed up LS sounds!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtwwjdHgAr8 It seems as though there is no good way for oil to get back to the pan other than draining over the cam then crank. The windage also blocks the oil from getting past back into the pan. |
Put a drain back line from back of heads down to the pan a little above oil level. I'm in process of doin that now. Had same issue with my engines
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These are pics I got on line. I'm also going to install a plug in the low drain back hole already in the heads so the oil heads down the return line with out sending any down into the valley
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Originally Posted by veloc410
(Post 4603529)
These are pics I got on line. I'm also going to install a plug in the low drain back hole already in the heads so the oil heads down the return line with out sending any down into the valley
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Unfortunately the lifter side of the head is wide open on an LS so there is no way to block it off.
restricted pushrods are one option. I'm not sure you can get the drain hole lower than drain path on lifter side of the head. it may be best to put the drain line below the oil level in the pan at least on the port side. Otherwise the windage from the crank may keep it from draining or worse yet, blow oil/air up the hose into the head. A wet sump LS has some unique challenges when held at high RPM for a long time. Not a common application I'm afraid. Jeff |
I have restrictive pushrods from Smith bros. They flow oil and a seems like enough. .040 holes as opposed to .080 standard. Thats what i did to solve my issue last year. I still worry about enough flow over springs. Smith bro say its a 70-75% reductuction at top. I was thinking about opening them up to .050 or so.
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Once drain backs are in . I will go back to standard .080 pushrods first and see how it works out. Do not use block restrictors
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These yours?? They look pretty deep. Plenty of room for drain back line in bottom rear corner???
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Yep, I've got the cathedral port heads. I'll have another look tonight.
Jeff |
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