Oil Line Fittings
 

After installing my engine I have decided to replace all the oil line as they are old and I cannot figure out how they had the whole setup in the boat anyways. It has OMC stuff on if that makes any difference. I was looking online and can't seem to find these exact fittings. They look like a hydraulic fitting to me with an o-ring and the line is 5/8.
http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...pskapsemru.jpg

they look the same as PS fittings, if I were you I would change everything out to reg pipe thread and an fittings, going to be tuff finding that stuff now, even special hose places dont carry much of that...

OMC does make a difference. What motor and I'll guess its a 1990 version as seen in your sig?

Changing everything would be easiest, but cost the most , maybe

Thanks guys, this is what I was thinking I was going to have to do. I was trying to find fittings to adapt to AN fittings so I can just run AN hose but was not thinking this would be my luck.

Yes this is a 1990 and unfortunately they put stock OMC oil cooler crap and an OMC electrical harness in a custom boat. I bought the boat as a project and trying to figure out the wiring is a total joke too as there are some hookups that are not used (knock sensor and other sensor hookups) and of course does not install in a location it was meant for. My buddy is a mechanic and great with electrical and said he wants to just make a completely new harness. Anyone ever do that? Not much to them from what we looked at.

It takes some buying and returning to find just the right one.

Custom is easy and doesn't take that much to accomplish, builders use them quite often

http://www.cpperformance.com/product...ng-harness.htm

When ever I get a project boat, 1st thing I do if any of the wiring is questionable, rip it all out and build a new wiring harness from scratch. That way you know what you have. If you should have a problem down the line at least you know about the wiring. I have done all of my own engine harnesses for years. Never had any problems. I have redesigned many dashes and built the harness from dash to motor. If you take your time and do it right, you will never regret the time it took to do. It's the best insurance you can have. Piece of mind that you did it right.

I was looking at oil coolers to replace and I saw this one had both coolers in one. Would this be large enough for my setup? Also, this will be a Tahoe boat that will have pretty cold raw water cooling it.
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13484...on-cooler.aspx
This also looks interesting as you have no plumbing. Anyone have any experience with these?
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14266...34-length.aspx

The thing is with those 6 foot cannon plug you still need to use part of the other harness,or at least I did. I just wired my two engines with the ebasics one, the factory Merc. harness has all the grounds and power leads bonded together inside the wrapping. I found it easier to reuse the large power and ground wires going to the alternator and starter and bring all the grounds to a terminal block and all the power off the Aux side of a 50amp breaker.

With your motor being stock, the combo cooler should work fine. Looks to be the same as used on older Merc 454
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s...31802/1621/300

Have not used the other item

I followed your threads and if I recall you have a pretty good running fresh 540. Regardless I do agree with wanted to get rid of current oil cooling lines and cooler. There is another thread right now you probably saw regarding oil pressure dropping that's trying to get resolved. The cp universal engine/ps cooler would be an option however i think it might be for more of a stock replacement 454 mag cooler. The simplicity is nice though. The other cp one I have never seen nor used. I would make sure you get the proper size cooler for your engine and separate smaller cooler for the power steering.

Also it's easy to spend a couple of paychecks on fittings and hoses. Although not cheap either but simple and much less time consuming you can always look into push loc hose and fittings. Either 10 or 12 AN. I have used it with great success and am using again with current project. Less fittings the better.

Now fuel I think most would agree SS braided lines for safety reasons. In your case being NA is ver minimal anyway.

Just some thoughts and I hope all is going well with your boat.

Btw I forgot to mention regardless the oil cooler you decide to go with make sure you use an oil stat. I know it's more plumbing etc however most all would agree the importance of. There's days possible weeks you may run and the stat not even open however a 10 deg water temp can make all the difference in the world. Full Force posted a nice earls oil stat well labled for little over 100.00. Very good investment and important to any build.

Thanks for the reply. I don't mind making hoses as I have a summit local to me and I can do it fairly cheap. I did see the next larger size of the same cooler that I would probably get. I have to get all new power steering hoses as well as they are old and cracked so might as well do it correctly with fittings instead of hose clamps. I even have a great place to put it for minimal hose lengths and easy access.

Go on the Summit website, there are conversion fittings for almost everything. start with power steering and (-AN) you can get a few till you find one that fits. I found one that finally fit the 496 8.1 oil filter cover. It was some 22MM wackjob thread. But they had it. Power steering fittings converted to AN are easy. Just look it up.

If you do decide to go separate coolers I have a like new 500 efi 2 1/2" X 19" engine oil cooler in the swap. What was your hp you ended up with? I thought you were around 600 plus but I could very well be wrong. I just remember you having a nice build and a nice shiny boat.

if you change, do it right from the start, good block mount w/ 1/2npt #10 lines, the twist lock ones work well(just make sure you get hose fittings from same manufature) good filter mount(moroso, canton, etc) decent cooler again with 1/2 fittings..they are around most everywhere

I see all the car stuff on summit's site is 1/2" npt but a lot of the boat cooler and remote filter housings you can get in 3/4" NPT. I know getrdun mentioned another thread where someone was having low oil pressure. I don't think I will have that issue so I would prefer to run the larger hose if possible. This thing was doing pretty good on the dyno for pressure. I agree with doing it right so if anyone has any suggestions that I may have not mentioned please let me know as I am still new to this.
Anyone have experience with the Dan Olsen cooler? I like that it is attached to the block and compact.
http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...psrifiiaep.jpg

Just a couple things. First most of the fittings on oil cooling systems are 1/2" even though they use 5/8 hose. Second, make sure any fittings and elbows and such do not restrict you oil flow. Taken more then one motor apart that had 5/8's hoses that were choked down to 3/8 by fitting trying to get it to work with a smaller cooler and such. Just remember that your oil flow will only be as good as your smallest fitting.

I just yanked everything out and went with -12 and units with 3/4" fittings to skip all of the issues so many people are having. I went push locks and recommend buying straight ip-An adaptors and put all of the bends on the AN side of things as the pipe fittings are sharp angles.

Ive been using the Fragola brand fittings lately and they are good quality , call Race Parts Solutions in Georgia they will give you a good deal . For the custom high end
hose and fittings I use Brown & Miller in Concord NC , they also mandrel bend SS tubing . ( ALL the napcar teams use them )

Thanks everyone for your input, I ended up getting a thermostatically controlled combo cooler for my HP rating, new block adapter and cool billet oil filter housing and bracket for the back of the head. All have 3/4 NPT oil fittings and will run -12 line probably. Finding out boats are a lot like dragsters, hard to stay away from expensive cool parts. Will be done correctly now.