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Any "How-To" Rebuild B1 Drive Trim Pump Out There?

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Any "How-To" Rebuild B1 Drive Trim Pump Out There?

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Old 04-07-2017, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by seafordguy
I just bought the rebuild kits for the RAMS from CP Performance for 14.99. They are a supporting vendor and they arrived in a couple days. Used a PIPE wrench to pull the ends cap off and repainted when all was said and done. Rebuild time is about 10 minutes. Clean-up and paint time is up to you!! There are some YouTube videos on rebuilding them but used compressed air to get the back stopper out so that you can put the new O-Ring on that, when you unbolt the spring watch out for the small ball bearings so they don't fall out, and be sure to put the O-Ring back in under the bolt on the back of the rod.
Rams can definitely fail with no outward signs.
I was just looking this over and it seems all self explanatory enough. 1 thing, at assembly time is the system self bleeding or is there a procedure?
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Old 04-08-2017, 12:50 AM
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It will self bleed when you run it from full up to full down several times.
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:53 PM
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Well when checking the conditon of my trim fluid I most likely found my culprit. Both trim pump reservoirs are full of milkshake. I don't even know how the drives are able to move! I'm going to rebuild all 4 Rams, rebuild kits are on the way. I'll use the how-to's posted here as well as the youtube vids.

My next roadblock is besides removing the trim pump reservoirs to clean, how the heck do I get the milkshake out of the lines?
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:57 PM
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the trim pump reservoir yellow cap with small hole in the top of it was a poor design - as water leaked from swimmers on the sun pad - that water would or can drip down on the top of the cap for the trim pump reservoir. Next bad design yellow cap was with the slotted threads - made for not a tight cap when screwed on but if a high water line got to the bottom base of the cap, it will leak water into the reservoir. HENCE the milkshake using either one of these yellow caps.

get the latest yellow cap thru Merc or the turbosonic cap for the trim reservoir.

That is correct the trim system are self bleeding with an unrestricted reservoir cap and without the red shipping plug still installed. Can not tell you how many trim pumps that the selling dealers / and or riggers forgot to take out the red shipping plug from the trim pump reservoir.

Merc calls for within 10 full cycles of full up and full down, the trim system should be fully bled. Again with a proper unrestricted reservoir cap.

Also the 2 filter screens in the very bottom of the valve body that sit in the reservoir will need to be cleaned completely from the thick milkshake plus all the trim rams, all lines, the valve body, all bled of the milkshake internally as well. .

Last edited by BUP; 04-18-2017 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BUP
the trim pump reservoir yellow cap with small hole in the top of it was a poor design - as water leaked from swimmers on the sun pad - that water would or can drip down on the top of the cap for the trim pump reservoir. Next bad design yellow cap was with the slotted threads - made for not a tight cap when screwed on but if a high water line got to the bottom base of the cap, it will leak water into the reservoir. HENCE the milkshake using either one of these yellow caps.

get the latest yellow cap thru Merc or the turbosonic cap for the trim reservoir.

That is correct the trim system are self bleeding with an unrestricted reservoir cap and without the red shipping plug still installed. Can not tell you how many trim pumps that the selling dealers / and or riggers forgot to take out the red shipping plug from the trim pump reservoir.

Merc calls for within 10 full cycles of full up and full down, the trim system should be fully bled. Again with a proper unrestricted reservoir cap.

Also the 2 filter screens in the very bottom of the valve body that sit in the reservoir will need to be cleaned completely from the thick milkshake plus all the trim rams, all lines, the valve body, all bled of the milkshake internally as well. .
John would you happen to have the part number for the newer style cap?
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:48 AM
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They are like 6 bucks - I will pull them out later as I have about 25 brand new from Merc I can text you the part number or can send whomever any. just saying its not like we make much money on them anyways especially for the price.

They sure help with keeping water out of the reservoir especially if the trim pump is inline with any water drip lines form the engine hatch / sun pad and even engine room vents another water entry.

Every 7 to 10 years I would change them out anyways. They have fiber mesh underside middle of the cap that gets saturated with the trim fluid and gets old like anything. They are a good cap thou. IMO the best one for stock MERC trim reservoirs. the cost is pennies for them being a boat related part.

Last edited by BUP; 04-18-2017 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:40 PM
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Just an added thought. Another issue often is in the valve "balls" that rest in the valve body under the pump. The steel ball-bearing and the aluminum seats don't like each other. The issue becomes the holes/seats get worn out and the valve won't seal completely. Cylinders good, pump is a pumpin' but still have a leak down, it's in the aluminium valve plate. I have a friend that has rebuilt them. He buys the smallest increment next size up ball and hand fits them to the aluminum seat. He did one of mine years ago and it still works fine.
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:58 PM
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The cap part number is 36-865448A01
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BUP
the trim pump reservoir yellow cap with small hole in the top of it was a poor design - as water leaked from swimmers on the sun pad - that water would or can drip down on the top of the cap for the trim pump reservoir. Next bad design yellow cap was with the slotted threads - made for not a tight cap when screwed on but if a high water line got to the bottom base of the cap, it will leak water into the reservoir. HENCE the milkshake using either one of these yellow caps.

get the latest yellow cap thru Merc or the turbosonic cap for the trim reservoir.

That is correct the trim system are self bleeding with an unrestricted reservoir cap and without the red shipping plug still installed. Can not tell you how many trim pumps that the selling dealers / and or riggers forgot to take out the red shipping plug from the trim pump reservoir.

Merc calls for within 10 full cycles of full up and full down, the trim system should be fully bled. Again with a proper unrestricted reservoir cap.

Also the 2 filter screens in the very bottom of the valve body that sit in the reservoir will need to be cleaned completely from the thick milkshake plus all the trim rams, all lines, the valve body, all bled of the milkshake internally as well. .
From what I an remember my caps don't have a hole in the top but I can see how water on the sun pad would make its way into the reservoir if it did. If my bilge had that much water in it the engine cranks would be under water as well so I know that's not the culprit. The pumps are mounted high in comparison to bottom of the bilge, I'd say atleast 1.25' off the bottom.

LIke you said it all needs to be cleaned. I figure on removing the pumps and reservoirs and looking for a tactic to flush the hydraulic lines from the pumps to the drive manifolds.
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Old 04-23-2017, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by AllDodge
The cap part number is 36-865448A01
Is that the latest cap? It appears to have the slots cut into the threads, the one BUP recommended not buying.

Thanks
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