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1990 Sleekcraft Enforcer 454 merc; did I seize my motor by not running it for 1.5 yrs

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1990 Sleekcraft Enforcer 454 merc; did I seize my motor by not running it for 1.5 yrs

Old 05-13-2017, 04:52 AM
  #11  
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Side note: always cover the boat well and check on it once in a while. And always leave drain plug out in case water intrudes the barrier. And this is not just for starter reasons, but for the whole boat.

You know water water does in liquid form, and being from the North, you know what frozen water does.
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Old 05-13-2017, 07:08 AM
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is this the full-size 10MT delco starter? it is too cheap to bother messing with. is it the smaller type? it is too difficult to repair. either way, buy a new starter. you think it is hard to replace on the trailer? try it in the middle of the lake...
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:04 AM
  #13  
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I did have the drain plug out so I don't think the starter or engine were actually submerged but being that the portable garage only covered the boat to exact the length and that the engine compartment was open I suspect wind would get rain and snow into there and get the starter wet which eventually rusted it from within.

I will get a new one, but maybe a dumb question but I don't know 100% for sure which rotation my engine is and thus doesn't it matter what type of rotation of starter I get? There isn't a make/model on my starter so I can't use that to make sure I get the right type. Anyone know what type of starter I need for a 92 (not 90) 454 merc.

Also, I know there are actual marine starters which I understand spark less which is safer if you have fumes in the engine compartment. I believe though that many use regular car starters. Any opinions on this?

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2017, 02:13 PM
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Standard rotation as car. 3510 starter. Go to parts store and ask for starter from 92 suburban with 7.4. The marine version makes an attempt to seal in the sparky area, but if there is an explosive fume mixture in the bilge...it will. I have 10 piled up in garage. I used to build em for a living a million years ago. And I just bought one of these. http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-Ch...=1347344812003 and it has SAE J11171 on the side so it is marine legal.

Last edited by dereknkathy; 05-13-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:45 PM
  #15  
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Ended up having the original starter professional rebuilt at a local alternator/starter rebuild shop (was $100, vs almost $400 that the local boat shop wanted for a new one).

Anyway, I managed to get the bolt closest to the wall in easy enough but for the life of me couldn't get the 2nd bolt to start/thread. I tried with the 1st bolt loose, with the 1st bolt tight and everything in between. So after about an hour of fighting it, I tightened up the 1st bolt real tight - the starter was on tight (wouldn't budge). So I thought to give it a try. I turned the ignition and immediately heard a grinding noise and the engine turn maybe an inch. Turned it off and tried again and same. I looked at the starter and it was on real tight still.

I tried my breaker again and I was again about to turn the engine clockwise, but very very tight - I also heard squeaking when I turn it manually - is this normal? I'm still a little afraid I may have done internal damage to engine, same as the starter internal rust?????

BTW - I did bench test the starter and it is good. Also I am sure the starter was as tight/close to the flywheel wall even with the one bolt - so I doubt the grinding was due to the starter not being positioned right.

Any ideas????

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:20 PM
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You are wrecking the flywheel. Stop trying till you get both bolts in. Take it back to the guy that built it and asked him to put it onto another nose. I'm sure he has lots of them.
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:11 PM
  #17  
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OK. so I removed the first bolt to try to get the other one first and then try that other bolt. Worked after a little fiddling - so got the starter on properly. being that I know it was stiff (the engine), I removed all the plugs (less compression) and squirted a little wd40 in there. Tried to start it and it turns but very slowly. I then tried the breaker bar on the pulley and it is still very stiff and makes a squeek when I turn it manually. The speed the engine turns over with the starter seems too slow to start even if I put the plugs back.

Any ideas? I did check the oil and it is full and looks good. By turning it with the starter, is it helping to lubricate the inside of the engine? Should I put the plugs back and try to actually start, though at the speed it is turning over I doubt it will start?

Thanks
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:20 PM
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either more oil and crank more or pull the heads and clean up the bores and gluck piled up on the top rings.
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:03 PM
  #19  
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btw - when the plugs were removed there was no signs of rust on the engine-end of the plugs - just black carbon. But there was slight rust on the nut part suggesting water did get into the spark plug hole area. But I suspect with a plug in tight, water can not seep into the engine?

I'm charging my batteries and sprayed a good amount of wd40 into the plug holes - I'll keep trying later but I've tried about 4 times already, each after spraying more wd40, and still no difference.

I'm wondering if the rebuilt starter just doesn't have the juice? But I'd hate to remove again (and then re-install) - plus before I put it in I did bench test it and the gear popped out and spun fast - so I suspect the starter is good. I did notice the rebuild shop painted the nose end of the starter - could it be a ground issue now?

Thanks
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:35 PM
  #20  
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You will get surface rust just sitting for 2 years. If any actual liquid water sat on top of the Piston over two Winters, you would get pitting the only a rebore would take care of. Oh, pull the valve covers and make sure all of your valves are moving.
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