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Bypass pipe
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4558959)
If you just remove the air lines, it will not puke water.
The air lines pressurize an actuator/plunger that is spring loaded against the air. The spring is what keeps water in the motor. When you add air, that spring compresses, and water drains out. Remember, this system does NOT REPLACE THE WATER in the ENGINE WITH AIR. It only opens a port so it can drain. This is why it's so important to do a real/full winterization when it's time. I used to carry a 6" long piece of pipe in my tool box that was the same OD as the barbs on the drain actuators. That way if you every have a failure of the spring (which does happen), you can remove the whole actuator; replace with the pipe, and carry on about your weekend. Check your local Napa. They usually have tons of air line in the back, used for air line systems on farm and truck equipment. FWIW: indicator of the spring starting to fail... ...if you have water in the bilge that you cannot explain; usually around 3000 RPM is when the water pressure going through the motor has enough positive pressure to overcome the spring. If you put the boat in the water, and can open the hatch a bit to see it running around 3000 RPM, you will see a stream of water coming out of the bottom of the air drain actuator. It's time to replace or rebuild it if so. I had this happen once, and it turned out to be a piece of wood that was jammed in the actuator holding it open. So just make sure you inspect your problem. |
That's what I did, bilge was always wet, did away with the air systems, no more wet bilge.
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Originally Posted by Gklado
(Post 4739592)
Sorry 2 years late. The actuator is discontinued. Looking to bypass with pipe. Cant find anything that has two ended barbs. Where did you find yours
See if you can buy the air drain valve rebuild kit. |
Where can you find/order a the standard pump backing plate that replaces the drain actuator in Post #12? One of mine is frozen shut and I'm thinking of eliminating them too. Is there a replacement part for the other actuator (non pump side)?
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[QUOTE=techman;4739721]Where can you find/order a the standard pump backing plate that replaces the drain actuator in Post #12? One of mine is frozen shut and I'm thinking of eliminating them too.
I can get the backing plates for you. |
I took mine off years ago. Put ball valves on your headers, disconnect the seawater pump and you can drain it reasonably fast anyway.
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I replaced the port side actuator with parts from local hardware store. 1" barb to 1.5" npt. Still have the drain on backside of seawater pump. It's not leaking... yet.
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