Dissolving aluminum corrosion
06-20-2017, 12:41 AM
#11
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I used an acidic solution on my trailer fenders;however, it only came back after 4 mos. or so, what an eyesore! I took them to get powdercoated 2 weeks ago for $200 total. Should have done it long ago.
06-20-2017, 01:06 PM
#14
*
Platinum Member
Now that you have some play in it, find some of the Loc Tite Freeze off spray in the aerosol can use that. That stuff can work wonders, the longer you spray it the colder it makes the part youre spraying it on.
If it doesnt work itself, add some heat to it and then use that spray and the temp change may get them to break loose.
If it doesnt work itself, add some heat to it and then use that spray and the temp change may get them to break loose.
Just for the record , like one of those consumer reports , I had a job last year to dismantle some high end outdoor furniture for re-finishing . The furniture was powder coated aluminum and the bolts were stainless . Of course thanks to this gawd awful salty environment the aluminum had seized the s/s bolts to their threads in the furniture and we tried that Freeze off shyte. A total waste of money . Once I realized that all I was going to do was snap the heads off of the bolts we took the stuff to a machine shop and they extracted all the bolts and broken studs like magic.
06-21-2017, 12:05 PM
#16
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Seems like brute force is the single biggest tool in the box. I had tried twisting it with a 12" wrench several times with no luck. After I got it moving a little yesterday, I got a 24" wrench on the clamping block and slowly got it rotating back and for a few degrees. Went back to using the jacking bolts, and finally got it moving and out. It's interesting to note that the muriatic acid attacked the bare aluminum far more than it did the oxidation. (Now you know why aluminum oxide is used on sandpaper...)
I couldn't get the anodized tube to unwind from the stainless fitting, even though I had used an anti-corrosion compound when I put the parts together (9 years ago), so I resorted to using a slitting saw to split it in half. (Exit $300+.) Now it's all cleaned up, sanded and repainted where the acid stripped the paint on the transom shield. Once the paint has cured, I'll clean up the bore in the casting with sandpaper and scotchbrite, then assemble it all back together with copious amounts of waterproof lithium grease. (And dismantle and re-grease them at least once a season from now on...
I couldn't get the anodized tube to unwind from the stainless fitting, even though I had used an anti-corrosion compound when I put the parts together (9 years ago), so I resorted to using a slitting saw to split it in half. (Exit $300+.) Now it's all cleaned up, sanded and repainted where the acid stripped the paint on the transom shield. Once the paint has cured, I'll clean up the bore in the casting with sandpaper and scotchbrite, then assemble it all back together with copious amounts of waterproof lithium grease. (And dismantle and re-grease them at least once a season from now on...
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Retired! Boating full-time now.
Retired! Boating full-time now.
Last edited by C_Spray; 06-21-2017 at 07:39 PM.
06-21-2017, 12:13 PM
#17
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By the way, here's the breakdown of what I've been working on. Parts 25 through 32...
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Retired! Boating full-time now.
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06-21-2017, 07:40 PM
#19
06-21-2017, 07:51 PM
#20
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Seems like brute force is the single biggest tool in the box. I had tried twisting it with a 12" wrench several times with no luck. After I got it moving a little yesterday, I got a 24" wrench on the clamping block and slowly got it rotating back and for a few degrees. Went back to using the jacking bolts, and finally got it moving and out. It's interesting to note that the muriatic acid attacked the bare aluminum far more than it did the oxidation. (Now you know why aluminum oxide is used on sandpaper...)
I couldn't get the anodized tube to unwind from the stainless fitting, even though I had used an anti-corrosion compound when I put the parts together (9 years ago), so I resorted to using a slitting saw to split it in half. (Exit $300+.) Now it's all cleaned up, sanded and repainted where the acid stripped the paint on the transom shield. Once the paint has cured, I'll clean up the bore in the casting with sandpaper and scotchbrite, then assemble it all back together with copious amounts of waterproof lithium grease. (And dismantle and re-grease them at least once a season from now on...
I couldn't get the anodized tube to unwind from the stainless fitting, even though I had used an anti-corrosion compound when I put the parts together (9 years ago), so I resorted to using a slitting saw to split it in half. (Exit $300+.) Now it's all cleaned up, sanded and repainted where the acid stripped the paint on the transom shield. Once the paint has cured, I'll clean up the bore in the casting with sandpaper and scotchbrite, then assemble it all back together with copious amounts of waterproof lithium grease. (And dismantle and re-grease them at least once a season from now on...
