Bondo

Ayuh,.... Drain everything,... Air don't freeze, even at the -40° We see up here,....

dna

OK, I decided to go the method I've used in the past. Ran it on the muffs for 15 minutes (way more than enough time for thermostat to open), then turned off engine for no more than 10 seconds as I swapped the hose on the muffs to my funnel. Started engine and immediately started to pour pink rv plumbing antifreeze until I saw pink coming out exhaust. At that point had buddy start to spray fogging oil into carb as I continued to pour pink antifreeze - until the engine stalled. I used up 20L of the antifreeze.

So my question(s), as I'm still a little concerned as I did crack my block in my previous boat which had a 5.7 magnum in it:

1) as mentioned in my process, after 15 mins I turned off the engine for 10 seconds as I swapped hoses - I assume the thermostat would remain open after such a short shut-off - please confirm

2) with my method, is there any way for me to confirm the antifreeze made it all areas of the engine, or at least to confirm past the thermostat? There are 4 hoses to the thermo housing - if I disconnect each from the housing and see pink, does that mean it worked?

3) I'm considering adding a heat source inside the engine compartment over the winter as an added insurance. Is an incondescent light bulb good? Or should I go with a little portable heater - if so would you recommend a conventional unit or a infrared? I also have a spare heating blanket. Your thoughts? Is this even needed, or just a waste of electricity?

Thanks

dereknkathy

Sidwayz, I was saying vac out the raw water input hose and oil cooler. Since it is difficult to unhook that hose at the low point to drain. Leaving the block full of antifreeze. And DNA, put the outdrive down once it is parked. Every spring there are new threads... Help! My outdrive is stuck up!!

FBRONCO

iTrader: (1)

Do you have pictures of this? I would like to know what container you use to catch all the water and antifreeze coming out of the exhaust ports, especially if you have silent choice. How do you hook up the PVC to the exhaust tips and get them down to your container with the sub pump in it?

Mr Maine

Why dont you drain the water out of the block and manifolds and refill with antifreeze?

I would not trust your method as you dont know how well the antifreeze you added mix with the water in the block. It didnt work before, and now you will have all winter to ponder whether or not it work this time....

dereknkathy

When running engine, a LOT of water goes thru thermo housing and STRAIGHT out exhaust. That is how you cracked the block. If you can get to the block drains, pull them and poke a small screwdriver in the hole. My method is for when it is November and you kept thinking you were gonna go out one more time and then the weatherman gives you that Oh Sh!!!t! moment. Remove hoses from bottom of exhaust manifolds. Remove thermo housing. Remove hoses from raw pump. Remove big hose from bottom of circ pump. Drain. Reinstall big hose on circ pump. Fill block with green straight antifreeze thru hole in intake where thermo hsng was till intake full. Take the out hose from raw pump and jam the end under the oil pan. If Batts still hooked up, fire engine up for 5-10 seconds to mix water and a/f in block.

1MOSES1

ill take pictures but it's easy. Go to Walmart for giant 25 gallon Rubbermaid container. Home Depot has cheap sub pumps. Fill the Rubbermaid container with anti freeze. Hook the sub pump up to muffs. That feeds the engine.

To complete the loop put together some 4" pvc tubes to plumb from exhaust back to Rubbermaid container. On the ends of the pvc put rubbed couplers with hose clamps. From scratch the setup takes about 30 minutes to put together. After that just use it year after year.

I always drain the block of water before running it on the loop. As someone already said it's better to be safe than sorry with introducing water with antifreeze. But this way you know the t stat opens and you can run it on the loop to fog.

FBRONCO

iTrader: (1)

How do you also catch the antifreeze that comes out of the transom assembly from the Y-pipes?

jeff32

if you already did your winterize procedures you just mentionned, please do yourself a favor. Take the drain plug off on each side of the engine block, you will be surprised how much water there might still be in the block without antifreeze, even if you ran them 10-15 minutes


i always run the engines and warm them up like you do, then i drain water from everywhere i can, then run them on muff with rv antifreeze, till it starts to go out from exhaust.

your ennemi is water right? So take it all out first. For the small amount it may still be inside, the antifreeze will mix it up and no surprise.

good luck!

BUP

iTrader: (9)

post 5 and 6 in the link below --- is the other side of the coin. Most of these AF do not have enough corrosion inhibs in them anyways plus other info posted on my part. .All anti freeze is a form of Alcohol and needs to be PH balanced with enough corrosion inhibs into the mix for that end of protection against rust formation.

Also watch the video. Now if the slightest water is mix with the pink stuff it will expand. Even if no expansion the anti freeze gets solid as a rock (like in the video ) - It is rough on the impeller, the internals of the water circ pump and the T stat and so on, Think about it - you are freeze solid internal parts of your engine for months on end.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...02-magnum.html

I am not a fan of this period because, I have seen cracked parts from this form of winterizing. Especially the V6 intake manifold. Also in my case I have liability as well. warm and cold winter days - kids and or whomever takes the boat out in a warm week of Jan - 2 weeks later it freezes. Just saying on my end for that.