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I had the same problem a few yrs ago on my previous boat. ‘95 350/Alpha. If I put a timing light on it at idle, all was good. But it wouldn’t advance. With the light on, I would rev the rpms up and the timing would advance to full advance for a split second, then drop back to base timing. My problem was traced to the power wire from the engine to the dash. At the dash it feed a fuse block, from the fuse block to the ignition switch then back to motor. I was not getting 12v to the coil. The feed wire at the fuse block was loose. Wire was warm from the resistance. Installed a high quality fuse block, replaced all the cheap autozone wire crimps and I got my voltage back at the coil and the timing now advanced. I think the low voltage was effectingbthe knock sensor, thus removing the advance. See what voltage you have at the pos post on your coil for chits and grins |
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4637692)
I had the same problem a few yrs ago on my previous boat. ‘95 350/Alpha. If I put a timing light on it at idle, all was good. But it wouldn’t advance. With the light on, I would rev the rpms up and the timing would advance to full advance for a split second, then drop back to base timing. My problem was traced to the power wire from the engine to the dash. At the dash it feed a fuse block, from the fuse block to the ignition switch then back to motor. I was not getting 12v to the coil. The feed wire at the fuse block was loose. Wire was warm from the resistance. Installed a high quality fuse block, replaced all the cheap autozone wire crimps and I got my voltage back at the coil and the timing now advanced. I think the low voltage was effectingbthe knock sensor, thus removing the advance. See what voltage you have at the pos post on your coil for chits and grins |
I don’t recall the responses from then. It was the low voltage at the dash from the poor fuse block connections that was my problem. |
^^^^^^^ I did remember it 4 or 5 years ago - . You are correct not a battery issue. Anyways I found the post and some good info for T bolt V for whomever.
the 3.0 L marine engine does not have a Knock sensor nor T bolt ignition. Carry on. https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ion-issue.html |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4637689)
forgot to add the timing chain gets worn out here as well - 400 to 500 hours these engines need alot of attention internally. They also corrode from the outside in very easily from any salt air content
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4637692)
I had the same problem a few yrs ago on my previous boat. ‘95 350/Alpha. If I put a timing light on it at idle, all was good. But it wouldn’t advance. With the light on, I would rev the rpms up and the timing would advance to full advance for a split second, then drop back to base timing. My problem was traced to the power wire from the engine to the dash. At the dash it feed a fuse block, from the fuse block to the ignition switch then back to motor. I was not getting 12v to the coil. The feed wire at the fuse block was loose. Wire was warm from the resistance. Installed a high quality fuse block, replaced all the cheap autozone wire crimps and I got my voltage back at the coil and the timing now advanced. I think the low voltage was effectingbthe knock sensor, thus removing the advance. See what voltage you have at the pos post on your coil for chits and grins |
Just got worse!
It just got worse. Took the kids out tubing. Out of hole took a bit of time, but at a certain point (didn’t watch when) it suddenly picked up and then went ok. Pulling a tube with two kids still got 4100 rpm. Satisfactory for that at least. Four starts later it stalled and couldn’t get it started at all. Zero spark. Picked up a new coil and still no start. plugs all new, wires tested ok on ohmmeter, pickup coil 850 ohms, tried my spare est module, safety lanyard ok. Don’t know what else to try! help? |
You have a BADDDDDDD pick up coil in the distributor. It finally went out completely would be a good guess. Prob been your issue for a while
Also do you know that your mechanical fuel pump has a filter in the bottom cover portion ? And the more the boat sits the worse the filter gets. It needs to be changed once per year regardless if the boat sits or runs. Regardless as it really needs to be changed once per year |
number 2 in the parts diagram in the link below. At first until 1998 the filters were ceramic filters inwhich come apart and clog alot of the fuel system up.
Merc went to the paper element filter and as a replacement but the paper comes apart as well when not changed soon enough. Have no idea if you know this or not but passing it on for the taking. You should have fine nesh fuel filter in the inlet carb fitting as well -- that needs to be changed out once per year as well. And for the record the cam gear keyway wollow out --- the start of it is around the 200 hour mark. Does nt matter how pristene the engine is. It is a cheap soft gear. These engines were in a 1976 thru 1980 chevy chevette back in the day and not used in an auto since 1982. MerCruiser 3.0LX GM 181 I / L4 1990-1995 Fuel Pump & Carburetor Parts |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4637727)
You have a BADDDDDDD pick up coil in the distributor. It finally went out completely would be a good guess. Prob been your issue for a while
Also do you know that your mechanical fuel pump has a filter in the bottom cover portion ? And the the more the boat sits the worse the filter gets. It needs to be changed once per year regardless if the boats or runs. Regardless all filters, screens etc have been cleaned or replaced. |
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