Camshaft Questions
 

I just rebuilt my 2000 502, I live literally 2 miles from Summit Racing in Arlington and I dont have time to have a custom cam cut nor do I want the added expense right now. Maybe next year. So I prefer something I can just pick up off the shelf.

4.500 Pistons 3.8cc dome, which I think brings my compression up .5 a point. block is also decked roughly 10
088 heads with extensive exhaust porting and cleaned up intake side, with a 2.25 intake valve and a 924 spring
Im going with a Carb set up, I have plenty of options on carbs and intakes. So suggestions on what would work best would be awesome.
CMI Etops Exhaust and Tails
All of this is being put in 96 Velocity 260/280 on a Bravo 1 and a 28 4blade
So if anyone has any cam knowledge that would help me that would be awesome in selecting a camshaft. I plan on pulling my engine at the end of the summer to store it and Im going to build another engine, thats when I plan of getting a custom cam, this one next season will be a back up or a buddy engine.

I believe I should be pretty close to 9.5, from what you have read will the 731 work with a comp 924 spring? I have read through a bunch of the cam threads on here and they are either a bit older and I didnt know if anyone has found a little better combo or my combo is a little different.

Im also open to buying one from here if someone has one they want to sell

Im going to the right springs instead of trying to use mine. Im gonna install the 924s on a l29 for a small cam.

Crane 741 cam and Isky 9005 valve springs

winner winner chicken dinner.

good point talking about cast cores.i would never use a hyd roller cam made from a cast core,espically in a marine application.

Are you looking at kits where the Comp Cams uses factory style dogbone lifters and the crane uses retrofit link style ?

how much lift can you put in motor??
i have isky cam 710 lift,,red ball series lifters (no needle bearings, was told the best market)about 1000$$for lifters

personally,, i would not want to pull a motor to change a cam. (unless its easy job..hahaha)

just had to pull my motors again to address and change water pump set up. dont ever want to pull motors again....!!!!!

First you/we need to know what block you have. Second, what heads you have.

Before selecting a valve spring, you need to get some measurements. What size are the spring pockets? What is your install height for the springs? If you are limited on install height , this can affect/limit your spring choice. Once you know what you can physically fit for a spring, the next step is to figure out what spring pressures you want. And when picking a spring, you'll want to be sure you pick one that is a reasonable distance from coil bind. Obviously too close is not good, but too far isnt good either. I had springs that had plenty of pressure for my application, but were totally wrong for the setup. They were damn near 1/4" away from coil bind. The springs walked around like crazy. A properly setup spring with less pressure, can be more effective at controlling and stabilizing the valvetrain than an incorrect one with higher pressures.

Comp Cam’s Billy Godbold notes that “from high-speed video and testing, it is clear that adjacent coils contact as you approach the valvetrain-limiting speed (this is known as spring surge). Hence, modern springs are designed to run near coil bind and use the coil-to-coil interaction for improved damping at or near max lift. This interaction is one of the most effective means of dampening spring surge, but the spring must be properly designed in terms of solid stress to safely use this interaction.” Depending on the intended use and the spring and cam-lobe design, coil-bind safety margins can now vary from 0.015 to 0.120 inch, with tighter numbers predominating on very stiff valvetrains. Anything more than 0.150 inch may cause spring surge, which can greatly reduce the available spring load needed to close the valve.